Oil cooler mounting: Thread pitch size of (two) radiator support holes are?

[TheBrightSide]

As the title states, I’m trying to see what thread pitch/bolt sizes the TWO threaded bolt holes in the upper radiator support takes. The location of the upper radistor support, for those who don’t know, is right behind the top front bumper grill, and sits right underneath the area where the hood latch assembly is. Mishimoto’s 25-row oil cooler/bracket uses these two main holes to bolt up their cooler, to which I am going to be running an aftermarket but practically identical oil cooler setup.

The oil cooler that I have, also comes with these two “L” shaped brackets that I mounted to the bottom sides (right and left). However, there’s nothing UNDER the cooler that can be mounted; therefore, I wanted to use something stupid like plastic zipties, just for extra “reassurance”? It does sound dumb, but honestly, the top-mounted bracket on the oil cooler, and the two main bolt holes in the radiator support, should be just fine.

Has anyone else that’s used the same radiator support bolt holes for their Mishimoto oil cooler or DIY oil cooler setup, experienced any loosening of the bolts from that, or any vibration issues? I also plan to use some blue Loc-tite on those two main bolts, so that they don’t loosen over time.

Also, does anyone know what I can use as “fire shielding” or to basically wrap around my braided oil lines? I don’t want them to constantly chafe and/or ride up against all of the contacted car parts, especially metal-on-metal contacting.

[TheBrightSide]

For anyone who’s wondering what I’m talking about, I’m posting this image (link) to show what I mean. It’s those 2 main bolts that are holding up the main bracket of the oil cooler. I don’t know what size the bolts are.

I think they’re M8 possibly, but no idea what the thread pitch is. I actually don’t even know that to be sure. If anyone knows, please chime in; I don’t wanna have to go to the hardware store back and forth with a ride, or buy 6-7 different types of bolts to try out. Thanks.

[bsn]

Metric is pretty standard as far as pitch if you thinks its an 8 get 6 and 10 also and you should be good as far as size. You want it solidly mounted at 4 points zip ties won't cut it, fabricate some brackets you want zero movement. Same goes for your hoses don't give them the opportunity to rub against anything. Braided steel lines will either fail or fail what they are rubbing against if allowed to rub-any covering will only delay the inevitable if you have a rub. Also if your running a larger oil cooler some type of thermostatic control is needed-too cold of oil is almost as bad as too hot of oil.

[TheBrightSide]

Originally Posted by bsn

Metric is pretty standard as far as pitch if you thinks its an 8 get 6 and 10 also and you should be good as far as size. You want it solidly mounted at 4 points zip ties won't cut it, fabricate some brackets you want zero movement. Same goes for your hoses don't give them the opportunity to rub against anything. Braided steel lines will either fail or fail what they are rubbing against if allowed to rub-any covering will only delay the inevitable if you have a rub. Also if your running a larger oil cooler some type of thermostatic control is needed-too cold of oil is almost as bad as too hot of oil.

Yeah, I’m running my own custom setup, but for the thermostat, I’m not running those crappy sandwich oil cooler thermostats. Well, not all of them are crappy, but a lot of ppl I know, constantly have them leak, or eventually do… I ended up going with an Improved Racing 200 F oil cooler thermostat; one that is actually LS engine-based, so it goes directly to the oil pan feed port(s).

Aside from that, everything else is identical to the Mishimoto thermostatic oil cooler kit. I pretty much based everything off of that, mainly being the size (rows) of the oil cooler itself, and also the AN fitting sizes. I kept everything mainly to AN-10 for all the oil cooler lines and fittings.

Off note, I’m kinda afraid of messing with the engine coolant port in the block, since there was an early TSB for 2010 or 2011 V8’s being cross-threaded; some cars actually needed their entire short block replaced under warranty…. Jesus Christ. But yeah, getting rid of that annoying stock oil “warmer” is more so for leaking reasons. I believe there’s either a crap or the mating surfaces are defective and/or warped from manufacturing.

[CamaroCracka]

Pretty sure all the 8mm are 8x1.25

[TheBrightSide]

Originally Posted by CamaroCracka

Pretty sure all the 8mm are 8x1.25

I finally got a chance to try them, and they ended up being metric M8 x 1.25! I chose to stick to 25mm length, but could’ve probably gotten away with 30mm.

I had to cram my hand down the area past the hood latch, in the cutout behind the front bumper, up on the top by the front of the main radiator cap. Thankfully, my hands are small. LOL

I’ll keep you guys updated on whether those two main bolts will hold themselves fine, without having anything else to hold down the bottom mounting brackets on the oil cooler. After all, I am using the same exact setup as the Mishimoto kit, and I haven’t seen a whole lot of mounting issues. And yes, I will also be using blue Loc-tite on the bolt threads.

[TheBrightSide]

Originally Posted by bsn

Metric is pretty standard as far as pitch if you thinks its an 8 get 6 and 10 also and you should be good as far as size. You want it solidly mounted at 4 points zip ties won't cut it, fabricate some brackets you want zero movement. Same goes for your hoses don't give them the opportunity to rub against anything. Braided steel lines will either fail or fail what they are rubbing against if allowed to rub-any covering will only delay the inevitable if you have a rub. Also if your running a larger oil cooler some type of thermostatic control is needed-too cold of oil is almost as bad as too hot of oil.

I recently got like 4’ ft worth of titanium heat resistant, 1” ID “shielding”. It’s the same “hairy” woven material that most people use for their spark plug wire heat/high temp resistant boots/socks.

I don’t think there’s gonna be any issue with heat; and although I feel like the woven titanium fabric will hold up for a “good while”, idk what to expect in the long run (3-4+ years)?