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Old 11-03-2009, 07:00 PM   #547
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Successful Fuse Pulls

FYI: My L99 just turned 2000 miles. I have always noticed a startup "pop", but never gave it much thought. I also had a "sputter" around 1000-1250 revs but it disappeared beyond that point. I did the fuse pull last night and had no "pop" this morning and no "sputter" on the low end in "D". It ran a lot smoother and quicker today. A much smaller pop returned about every 4th start up throughout the day , but the performance increase has been very noticable. Thanks for the post. I thought I had a beast before yesterday, but now......
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Old 11-03-2009, 08:15 PM   #548
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well

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Originally Posted by towmoe View Post
Now I'm confused... Are LS3 owners supposed to disconnect the battery or not
???????????????????????
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Old 11-03-2009, 08:58 PM   #549
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???????????????????????
It won't hurt anything. Just re-index the windows and drive on.
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Old 11-03-2009, 09:07 PM   #550
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My fuse pull and battery disconnect was so-so. I feel the power is the same (was not complaining before the pull anyways) I am no expert shifter, but i can drive a stick. The shifting feels better to me. The jerky takeoff is smoother. Call me crazy but it is different than before the pull.
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Old 11-04-2009, 09:32 AM   #551
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acowherd View Post
It won't hurt anything. Just re-index the windows and drive on.
Yeah it won't hurt anything, but I would like to know why we would have to disconnect the battery AND pull a fuse...
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Old 11-04-2009, 10:40 AM   #552
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YOU DO NOT NEED TO DO THE BATTERY!! Ok good got your attention. Just do the fuse pull and let it sit for at least 1 hour. Guys want to be in a hurry and say pull the battery. GUESS WHAT, there is a ECM backup battery between the main battery and the ECM. So pulling the trunk battery has no effect on the ECM unless left for maybe over night. Then of coarse you have to mess with window indexing and stuff like that. Just do the fuse pull. Simple and easy.
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Old 11-05-2009, 01:59 AM   #553
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott@Bjorn3D View Post
YOU DO NOT NEED TO DO THE BATTERY!! Ok good got your attention. Just do the fuse pull and let it sit for at least 1 hour. Guys want to be in a hurry and say pull the battery. GUESS WHAT, there is a ECM backup battery between the main battery and the ECM. So pulling the trunk battery has no effect on the ECM unless left for maybe over night. Then of coarse you have to mess with window indexing and stuff like that. Just do the fuse pull. Simple and easy.
I pulled my battery overnight remember. It did nothing. So it would have to be longer than that.

Like Scott said. Pull the fuses. My vids are all the proof you need.
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Old 11-05-2009, 03:12 PM   #554
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I tried the fuse pull yesterday on my LS3 and it seemed to help in it shifting more steadily. I really had a hard time shifting smoothly since I got the car a few weeks ago. I know how to drive stick since that is all I have owned for 20 years. Mileage seems to be going up too, have a half tank of gas and driving around town today I gained 2 mpg with me getting on it a few times. I only pulled the fuses for 3 hours and don't know if that was enough time.
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Old 11-05-2009, 07:40 PM   #555
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acowherd View Post
My fuse pull and battery disconnect was so-so. I feel the power is the same (was not complaining before the pull anyways) I am no expert shifter, but i can drive a stick. The shifting feels better to me. The jerky takeoff is smoother. Call me crazy but it is different than before the pull.
i swear my start off is smoother too
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Old 11-07-2009, 01:43 PM   #556
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mnywstr View Post
I tried the fuse pull yesterday on my LS3 and it seemed to help in it shifting more steadily. I really had a hard time shifting smoothly since I got the car a few weeks ago. I know how to drive stick since that is all I have owned for 20 years. Mileage seems to be going up too, have a half tank of gas and driving around town today I gained 2 mpg with me getting on it a few times. I only pulled the fuses for 3 hours and don't know if that was enough time.
That's plenty of time.
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Old 11-07-2009, 02:40 PM   #557
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ECM programming may void your warranty, but......

I have tuned over 400 C6 Corvettes by Halltech's e-mailTuneŽ, and always clone the High Octane table to the Low Octane table. This has never once presented a problem, and permanently resolves the timing issue. The ECM counts knock retard and at a specific threashold bumps you into Low Octane timing. Boy can you tell the loss of around 20 HP.

I have not read this lengthy thread, so if this has already been recommended or mentioned, sorry for the duplicate advice.

Folks always think of tuning as some kind of magical formula, when in reality, things like CAGS, Rev limit, Top speed limiter, timing tables, Cat Over Temp Protection, Air Fuel ratio improvement, torque management, and many other countermeasures to GM overly protective ECM measures are normally modified or turned off altogether. Headers many times require cat codes turned off due to the repositioning of the cats.

In 8 years of tuning, we have only had one set of cats smoked by turning off the Cat Overtemp Protection Circuit, which pukes fuel into the cylinders at around 9.9:1 air fuel ratio, and that was a customer who kept his pedal to the metal for 30 minutes flat out at the Salt Flats. He did 177 mph with his virtually stock C5, but ended up replacing his cats. Not surprisingly he then just cut them off.

Jim Hall
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Old 11-08-2009, 04:33 PM   #558
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wow, im sorry but thats way too many pages to read. and im on my mobile at work, hehe. i have the ls3, is pulling the fuses overnight right? or/and battery? thanks!
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Old 11-09-2009, 12:03 AM   #559
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Halltech View Post
I have tuned over 400 C6 Corvettes by Halltech's e-mailTuneŽ, and always clone the High Octane table to the Low Octane table. This has never once presented a problem, and permanently resolves the timing issue. The ECM counts knock retard and at a specific threashold bumps you into Low Octane timing. Boy can you tell the loss of around 20 HP.

I have not read this lengthy thread, so if this has already been recommended or mentioned, sorry for the duplicate advice.

Folks always think of tuning as some kind of magical formula, when in reality, things like CAGS, Rev limit, Top speed limiter, timing tables, Cat Over Temp Protection, Air Fuel ratio improvement, torque management, and many other countermeasures to GM overly protective ECM measures are normally modified or turned off altogether. Headers many times require cat codes turned off due to the repositioning of the cats.

In 8 years of tuning, we have only had one set of cats smoked by turning off the Cat Overtemp Protection Circuit, which pukes fuel into the cylinders at around 9.9:1 air fuel ratio, and that was a customer who kept his pedal to the metal for 30 minutes flat out at the Salt Flats. He did 177 mph with his virtually stock C5, but ended up replacing his cats. Not surprisingly he then just cut them off.

Jim Hall

Thanks for the additional info and support!
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Old 11-09-2009, 11:14 AM   #560
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LS3 trying it today, hope to see something
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