HKE LSX 427 with D1SC is in!!! but WTFO?

[tkrupinski]

Originally Posted by Bad Dad

Im in, installing mine this weekend dont expect any Issues and if waiting a few seconds to prime no problem better than gas in a coke bottle to prime a 1200 cfm carb on a 540 marine block woops I just dated myself Plumbing per ADM Fuel feed Plumbing should be - pump out with check valve to regulator in than regulator out to filter out filter to rail that's it.

Fuel return from bottom of regulator back to the return fitting in Andy's Fuel pump . And Andys has a check valve built in

I am a little confused on the plumbing. The way you are told to hook up your system sounds like it would be dead heading at the rails. I ran mine like the picture Bull put up in this thread, from pump to y-block then feed each rail, then a return line from each rail to the regulator. I was told it would hold a more consistent pressure in each rail running it this way. Maybe Andy can explain this in more detail.

[tkrupinski]

Originally Posted by ADM PERFORMANCE

Andy are you sure you want to be in this business?
G8 guys are just as bad aren't they!

You make a great product...can't wait to showcase it

Andy is it better to have the fuel pressure at a fixed set point or boost reference? I also had a question for you in the previous post. Looked like this tread was the best place for fuel info.Bull I hope you get it all squared away soon.

[ADM PERFORMANCE]

Originally Posted by tkrupinski

Andy is it better to have the fuel pressure at a fixed set point or boost reference? I also had a question for you in the previous post. Looked like this tread was the best place for fuel info.Bull I hope you get it all squared away soon.

You have to use boost referenced.

Just think what happens when you put 20 psi
In front of an injector ..... It has to push into a 20 psi ballon(intake manifold)
You must overcome that back pressure.
By increasing your fuel pressure in a 1:1 ratio you have done just this

[ADM PERFORMANCE]

Originally Posted by tkrupinski

I am a little confused on the plumbing. The way you are told to hook up your system sounds like it would be dead heading at the rails. I ran mine like the picture Bull put up in this thread, from pump to y-block then feed each rail, then a return line from each rail to the regulator. I was told it would hold a more consistent pressure in each rail running it this way. Maybe Andy can explain this in more detail.

Originally Posted by tkrupinski

Andy is it better to have the fuel pressure at a fixed set point or boost reference? I also had a question for you in the previous post. Looked like this tread was the best place for fuel info.Bull I hope you get it all squared away soon.

I have done literally 100's this way with
No flaws and no blown engines.

We use factory 3/8 fuel line on every build up to 1400 Hp,once again with no fueling problem.We also install all of our regulators in the rear of the car and return only a very short distance.

[tkrupinski]

Originally Posted by ADM PERFORMANCE

You have to use boost referenced.

Just think what happens when you put 20 psi
In front of an injector ..... It has to push into a 20 psi ballon(intake manifold)
You must overcome that back pressure.
By increasing your fuel pressure in a 1:1 ratio you have done just this

Thanks for the info.
I have mine Boost referenced for that reason.
Thought maybe you guys were doing something different.

[Bad Dad]

Originally Posted by ADM PERFORMANCE

You have to use boost referenced.

Just think what happens when you put 20 psi
In front of an injector ..... It has to push into a 20 psi ballon(intake manifold)
You must overcome that back pressure.
By increasing your fuel pressure in a 1:1 ratio you have done just this

Thank you Andy

[Bad Dad]

Originally Posted by ADM PERFORMANCE

I have done literally 100's this way with
No flaws and no blown engines.

We use factory 3/8 fuel line on every build up to 1400 Hp,once again with no fueling problem.We also install all of our regulators in the rear of the car and return only a very short distance.

Andy. On the whipple the vac port at the rear of the manifold can that be the source for the boost reference to the regulator and the Hobbs Switch?

[GLGJR]

Originally Posted by ADM PERFORMANCE

I have done literally 100's this way with
No flaws and no blown engines.

We use factory 3/8 fuel line on every build up to 1400 Hp,once again with no fueling problem.We also install all of our regulators in the rear of the car and return only a very short distance.

Dang it. I am going to need a new fuel line!

[Quiky One]

Sory to hear of all your issues, Bull.

I must say though with all the money you spent getting it installed and tuned, I would atleast expect the engine bay to be clean. You would think they would be proud of there work.

[blake-b]

How is the car running?

[QuickZoh6]

I have never seen one of the squash fuel pump units yet, but just from reading all this it sounds to me like one of the check valves is malfunctioning on the SECOND pump that is wired to activate off the hobbs switch under boost. when you are trying to start the car your primary pump is turning on, but is returning most of the fuel back to the tank (through the secondary pump, and its malfunctioning check valve). When you bypassed the hobbs switch and were running on the secondary pump only, it seemed to be working correctly because the primary pump's check valve is working correctly and the secondary pump's check valve isn't being "used" so it builds pressure at the rail. Just throwing ideas out there.

Also, blowing air back through the feed line (especially with lungs) is not a good way to test to see if a check valve is working properly. There is no way to tell if there is bleed-off. if you put a cap on the rail, then blew 50 psi of air into the feed line, and had a way to shut it off and monitor the pressure drop, that would be a good test. It is actually pretty hard to blow air and force fuel back through the pump, even without a check valve.

[BullF-16]

Originally Posted by blake-b

How is the car running?

Its running like a scalded ass ape! It seems like the more i drive it the better it gets. The pump builds pressure almost immediately lately. the last couple mornings it fires right up after about 5-10 sec vs 3 minutes on first start up. Its really kind of hit and miss but it definitely driveable. Just kind of an inconvenience every now and then.

[CyberPredator]

Glad to hear you're getting to drive it.

[BullF-16]

Originally Posted by QuickZoh6

I have never seen one of the squash fuel pump units yet, but just from reading all this it sounds to me like one of the check valves is malfunctioning on the SECOND pump that is wired to activate off the hobbs switch under boost. when you are trying to start the car your primary pump is turning on, but is returning most of the fuel back to the tank (through the secondary pump, and its malfunctioning check valve). When you bypassed the hobbs switch and were running on the secondary pump only, it seemed to be working correctly because the primary pump's check valve is working correctly and the secondary pump's check valve isn't being "used" so it builds pressure at the rail. Just throwing ideas out there.

Also, blowing air back through the feed line (especially with lungs) is not a good way to test to see if a check valve is working properly. There is no way to tell if there is bleed-off. if you put a cap on the rail, then blew 50 psi of air into the feed line, and had a way to shut it off and monitor the pressure drop, that would be a good test. It is actually pretty hard to blow air and force fuel back through the pump, even without a check valve.

Thanks, i will run this past Andy at Squash. He is suspecting a sticking valve in the regulator. We have isolated the indiv pumps and still had the issue. the next easiest thing to do is take the regulator . Im gonna take it off the firewall and disassemble it. I'll probably get frustrated and break in worse. then we'll go from there