Junkman's, The Mother of All "How to Fix Your Paint for Novices" Thread!

[Junkman2008]

Originally Posted by ihaveacamaro

Junkman, even though this post was not directed at me, I hope I have not offended you in any way. Your videos were the first I watched and helped me to get into detailing. If I have offended you, I do apologize. Cheers buddy

No apology needed. You have done nothing but contributed to this thread.

Originally Posted by tramtwo

Forums have been like this from the start. Many users forget that this is a community of shared knowledge. Only works well if everyone pulls their weight and contributes what they can. I cut my teeth on nowonder.com a computer help site back in the day of windows 3.11 and the new 98.

/thread jack

Now about glass... i have heard some clay glass. Can this be right?

Yes, claying glass is very helpful in getting it clean. I highly recommend. Now speaking of Windows 3.11, check out this unopened box I have. Don't ask me why I still have it, I just can't bring myself to throw it away. My first computer course was on DOS 3.2.

Originally Posted by jeffswhitess

Thanks for the help you have given to all of us and thanks for your service in the Military!

Originally Posted by CrystalRedTintcoat

Junkman, I watched the wash videos. Very good stuff. Lets see if I can execute the water pool rinse. Of course I bought a foam gun and electric dryer (leaf blower). Glad you made the comment about painted wheels. Got a third mitt for that.

And don't use any harsh chemicals on painted wheels, especially black ones. You could permanently stain them and that will look like crap. I only use soap and water on my wheels but I also use Wagner Thermo Quiet brake pads, which leave ZERO brake dust on your wheels. I mean ZERO.

[Junkman2008]

Originally Posted by CamaroDreams07

Not that it's that big of a deal, but I got curious reading this and checked the stock backing plate

But still, 6.5 inch pads are what you want.

*Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety*

Is that the same model back plate that is in my video?

[CamaroDreams07]

Originally Posted by Junkman2008

Is that the same model back plate that is in my video?

I assume so. It says for use with 6" pads, just like yours does. I'd have to check the model number to be 100% sure.

Edit: mine says 18001, standard hook and loop pad, yours is 18002, contour hook and loop pad. Both are advertised as 6" on Porter Cables website, but you can clearly see that at least the 18001 that came with my PC isn't. Who knows. Doesn't make much difference.

*Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety*

[CrystalRedTintcoat]

Originally Posted by CamaroDreams07

Not that it's that big of a deal, but I got curious reading this and checked the stock backing plate



But still, 6.5 inch pads are what you want.

*Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety*

I thought this all made sense but now I'm confused again.

Don't the videos say to use 5.5" pads on a 5" hook and loop backing plate? I bought 6.5" pads and a 6" backing plate mistakenly and just bought 5.5's and a 5 and plan on returning the 6.5s and 6. Junkman says its easier to work with the 5.5s and that the PC 7424 may not be strong enough to spin the 6.5s.

Take a look at the second video at 3:04. He was demonstrating on a 6" pad because his others were drying.

[Junkman2008]

Originally Posted by CrystalRedTintcoat

I thought this all made sense but now I'm confused again.

Don't the videos say to use 5.5" pads on a 5" hook and loop backing plate? I bought 6.5" pads and a 6" backing plate mistakenly and just bought 5.5's and a 5 and plan on returning the 6.5s and 6. Junkman says its easier to work with the 5.5s and that the PC 7424 may not be strong enough to spin the 6.5s.

Take a look at the second video at 3:04. He was demonstrating on a 6" pad because his others were drying.

From my post, #96 in this thread:

Originally Posted by Junkman2008

A smaller pad performs better on the PC because of the PC's limited power. It is easier for the PC to turn a smaller pad and thus, your results are going to be better and faster. A smaller pad will also perform better on humps and extreme curve when using the PC as the smaller pad will not hang up as easily. You can use a 6.5" pad but you have to be extremely conscious of your technique. Too much pressure and your results will start sucking wind. The same will happen with a 5.5" pad, however, it is easier to get your technique down with a smaller pad. You won't cover too large of an area for one and you are able to get into tighter areas for another.

This is also what I explained in the video. I can use both a 5.5" and a 6.5" pad because I've been doing this for years and know how to work with either pad. I tell novices to start with a 5.5" pad for the reasons that I state above and in the video.

[CamaroDreams07]

Obviously, this is Junkman's thread, but I will second his advice above to use smaller than 6" pads for anything other than spreading an LSP. The PC doesn't do that well with big pads.

*Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety*

[ChadG]

Junkman - just wanted to thank you for the information on how much pressure to apply while polishing. As an Army guy I was definitely applying way too much pressure, and just finished a polishing session where I used your advice and got much, much better results. You can really do it one handed . . . instead of the GORILLA pressure I was using!

Thanks to guys like you and other helpful members here it's great to keep learning and improving my technique!

[Junkman2008]

Originally Posted by ChadG

Junkman - just wanted to thank you for the information on how much pressure to apply while polishing. As an Army guy I was definitely applying way too much pressure, and just finished a polishing session where I used your advice and got much, much better results. You can really do it one handed . . . instead of the GORILLA pressure I was using!

Thanks to guys like you and other helpful members here it's great to keep learning and improving my technique!

I can add you to the list of folks who have learned that technique trumps product every time.

[ChadG]

Yeah I'm a true believer, now I just need you to come out to California to give me some pointers in real time. The Camaro has so many angles/bends/features it is a real pain in the you know what to polish.

[Junkman2008]

Originally Posted by ChadG

Yeah I'm a true believer, now I just need you to come out to California to give me some pointers in real time. The Camaro has so many angles/bends/features it is a real pain in the you know what to polish.

I lived out there for 10 years. You should have called.

[Good_Times]

Originally Posted by ChadG

Junkman - just wanted to thank you for the information on how much pressure to apply while polishing. As an Army guy I was definitely applying way too much pressure, and just finished a polishing session where I used your advice and got much, much better results. You can really do it one handed . . . instead of the GORILLA pressure I was using!

Thanks to guys like you and other helpful members here it's great to keep learning and improving my technique!

Here is a little info I thought you may find helpful. Downward pressure on a da varies depending on machine/pad/compound combos plus paint type and condition. The below info was posted by M.Stoops of Meguiars. He talks about mf pads but is relative to all combinations you may encounter.

The following is a example from a M.Stoops post using other products and the need for various downward pressures with a da :
M105 in and of itself has more cut than D300, that's true, but D300 coupled with a microfiber cutting disc has more total cut than M105 on a foam polishing pad. It also creates much less dust, is easier to wipe off, and quite a bit less expensive - it was specifically formulated to work with the microfiber discs on a DA.

If you are DA sanding down to 3000 grit finishing media our recommendation, if you intend to remove those sanding marks with a DA rather than a rotary, is to use D300/DMC5 microfiber cutting disc at speed 4 (the "dialed in" speed for the system), slow arm speed and fairly heavy pressure. If you need more cut, instead of cranking up the tool speed, which seems to be everyone's natural tendency, increase the pressure and really slow down your arm speed while working a smaller area than usual.
__________________
Meguiar's Surface Care Specialist / MOL Administrator


So as you see from his post arm speed and downward pressure requirements are dependent on what you are trying to accomplish and with what you are using to do the job with. I hope this clears up a little about required downward pressure and arm speed.

PS: I have edited this to try and explain my intent to show downward pressure is something that changes under different conditions and that Blues45th will need to know all corrections require a little variation. Inresponse to his comment about the change from a gorrila grip to a one hand control.

[Junkman2008]

Originally Posted by Good_Times

Here is a little info I thought you may find helpful. Downward pressure on a da varies depending on machine/pad/compound combos plus paint type and condition. The below info was posted by M.Stoops of Meguiars. He talks about mf pads but is relative to all combinations you may encounter.





M105 in and of itself has more cut than D300, that's true, but D300 coupled with a microfiber cutting disc has more total cut than M105 on a foam polishing pad. It also creates much less dust, is easier to wipe off, and quite a bit less expensive - it was specifically formulated to work with the microfiber discs on a DA.

If you are DA sanding down to 3000 grit finishing media our recommendation, if you intend to remove those sanding marks with a DA rather than a rotary, is to use D300/DMC5 microfiber cutting disc at speed 4 (the "dialed in" speed for the system), slow arm speed and fairly heavy pressure. If you need more cut, instead of cranking up the tool speed, which seems to be everyone's natural tendency, increase the pressure and really slow down your arm speed while working a smaller area than usual.
__________________
Meguiar's Surface Care Specialist / MOL Administrator



So as you see arm speed and downward pressure requirements are dependent on what you are trying to accomplish and with what you are using to do the job with. I hope this clears up a little about required downward pressure and arm speed.

Either your post is not complete or it is trying to make rocket science out of caveman checkers. I am completely lost as to what it means. That's why I subscribe to the KISS method. Everyone understands KISS.

[Blues45th]

How does it no make sense. Lol.

[Good_Times]

I was trying to explain that the amount of pressure required to polish or make paint corrections varies from one application to another. It's not a one size fits all. Seems simple to me. On some applications a lot of pressure may be required and some require a light touch. Sorry I don't make videos . I just polish cars and make a little money and try and share what I believe is useful information.I don't have a following but was showing an example of someone who reps a major company that agrees sometimes more downward pressure is required.


I have edited my last reply to explain my intent. I'm not a english teacher or educated illustrator but just a 10th grade drop out that has raised a family and put two kids through college and make littles a money detailing cars and enjoying retirement at a early age. Peace out.