Technostalgia taillights flashing randomly when car is off and locked. What the hell.

[TCAT]

Also, I have an update.

Today, I finally installed my new battery. I got out the voltmeter and began testing the battery. The first test was to check the battery voltage with the red taillight activation wire disconnected, and the second test was to check the battery voltage with the red taillight activation wire connected to the battery.

Test 1 read 12.7 volts with a deviation of +/-1 volt
Test 2 read 12.7 volts with a deviation of +/-1 volt

So, both tests were absolutely identical. So, I have a hard time believing this means that the taillights aren't the thing killing my batteries. Is there any other wire that I should be disconnecting or connecting when trying these test with a voltmeter to see if anything makes a different in the voltage read by one of the components of the taillights that could be causing a possible power draw? If these taillights weren't causing major power draw, how the hell could I have two dead batteries within a 2.5 month span and after installing these taillights, especially when my car has been perfectly fine the other 1.3 years I've owned it (theoretical question)?

I'm stumped.

[cody.freeman1]

I understand your frustration with these lights tcat. Mine isn't the same problem but everytime I turn my right turn signal on while driving, my screen tells me to check my right rear lamp, along with the fast ticking. When this happens, the sequential right turn signal if off beat between both passenger lights. The moment I use it while parked or the engine is off, it will work again.

[zkdreads]

wouldnt your battery be under warranty?

[MGD]

TCAT,
you can not do a draw test like this, you have to hook up the meter in series with the battery. disconnect the positive cable from the battery, set your meter to A DC, put the red + probe on the battery and the black - to the positive cable. Now you reading current draw, that is what you want to see.

[TCAT]

Originally Posted by cody.freeman1

I understand your frustration with these lights tcat. Mine isn't the same problem but everytime I turn my right turn signal on while driving, my screen tells me to check my right rear lamp, along with the fast ticking. When this happens, the sequential right turn signal if off beat between both passenger lights. The moment I use it while parked or the engine is off, it will work again.

That's definitely strange. These lights are hard to predict. Some of my friends that have these lights are having some interesting issues as well, but they are hard to pinpoint where they are coming from. I hope you figure out the issue soon, and good luck as well. Once they work, they look great, but that's about it. LOL

Originally Posted by zkdreads

wouldnt your battery be under warranty?

That would definitely be nice , but GM won't touch this car with the way it is now.

Originally Posted by MGD

TCAT,
you can not do a draw test like this, you have to hook up the meter in series with the battery. disconnect the positive cable from the battery, set your meter to A DC, put the red + probe on the battery and the black - to the positive cable. Now you reading current draw, that is what you want to see.

Awe man, I had no idea. Okay let me try it. So the black probe will go on the positive + Technostalgia red wire, while the red probe goes to the positive + battery terminal?? I don't want to cause any shorts by doing something wrong.

Thanks!!

[TCAT]

Originally Posted by MGD

TCAT,
you can not do a draw test like this, you have to hook up the meter in series with the battery. disconnect the positive cable from the battery, set your meter to A DC, put the red + probe on the battery and the black - to the positive cable. Now you reading current draw, that is what you want to see.

Okay, I followed your directions and I hope I did it correctly. I put the voltmeter on the DC10A setting that's shown in yellow in the picture. I had the positive terminal of the battery disconnected the whole time. Then, I had the positive voltmeter probe touch the positive terminal post of the battery, and the black probe of the voltmeter touching the red Technostalgia wire from be taillights. On my voltmeter it read .105 Amps. Is that right???

[zkdreads]

i know but you said you bought a new battery. so i would assume a new battery has at least year warranty. i just bought a new battery about a month ago and it has a 4 year warranty and 3 year prorated warranty

[MGD]

TCAT,
that's right, now you know that the lights draw only 105mA, which is nothing and about right.
Now, do a test where you put the meter on the battery terminal and the the disconnected battery cable. Like in that pic. You should read about 1 to 2 A.

[TCAT]

Originally Posted by zkdreads

i know but you said you bought a new battery. so i would assume a new battery has at least year warranty. i just bought a new battery about a month ago and it has a 4 year warranty and 3 year prorated warranty

Ahhhh gotcha, that's what you mean. I went to Sears and told then my battery was dead and they gave me this new one I'm using now . I didn't tell them I had lighting mods, etc. on this car though, and luckily they covered the dead battery under warranty.

Originally Posted by MGD

TCAT,
that's right, now you know that the lights draw only 105mA, which is nothing and about right.
Now, do a test where you put the meter on the battery terminal and the the disconnected battery cable. Like in that pic. You should read about 1 to 2 A.

Thanks MGD. I really appreciate this help. Let me try what you just described. Il be back in a second.

[TCAT]

Hmm....I just did that test. I put the red voltmeter probe on the positive battery terminal, and the black voltmeter probe on the red/positive disconnected battery cable. The reading is going erratic and won't get a still reading. It varies from a half an Amp all the way to 3.7A. Why doesn't it stay somewhat steady? Am I supposed to put the red and black probes of the meter in the opposites spots from how I measured?

[MGD]

You can put the probes either way,you will only change the reading from negative to positive, it doesn't matter. If you do the test, make sure all stuff is turned off. Close the doors, pull the light bulb from the trunk, it will draw some current. Give it a minute or two to stabilize. All your components like BCM and all computers will draw some current. Your meter has to stay on A/DC like you had it.

[cadyshac]

I don't mean to butt in but if you have the probes with the little alligator clips on them then clip them to the battery terminal and the disconnected positive wire. If you are still getting the 3.7 amp draw then try pulling fuses, one at a time, of what you suspect might be causing the draw. Check the meter again after each fuse pull, that should show you which circuit or component is causing your problem. Please keep us updated on what you find, good luck I hope it turns out to be something simple.

I am sad to hear about all the problems with these tail lights as I was very interested in putting them on my car in the next few months. I saw them in person for the first time at last years Camaro5fest and they are eye catching to say the least.

[TCAT]

Originally Posted by cadyshac

I don't mean to butt in but if you have the probes with the little alligator clips on them then clip them to the battery terminal and the disconnected positive wire. If you are still getting the 3.7 amp draw then try pulling fuses, one at a time, of what you suspect might be causing the draw. Check the meter again after each fuse pull, that should show you which circuit or component is causing your problem. Please keep us updated on what you find, good luck I hope it turns out to be something simple.

I am sad to hear about all the problems with these tail lights as I was very interested in putting them on my car in the next few months. I saw them in person for the first time at last years Camaro5fest and they are eye catching to say the least.

Thanks a ton. I truly appreciate it. These lights do look amazing, but it's tough that the quality is a hit or miss. Some people have no issues and others have a ton. I hope you get a great set that suits well for years to come.

MGD came over just a while ago and tested out everything on the car that could be drawing power. What he came up with is that the car is not drawing more than it should when all accessories are on, or off. Each taillight terminal was tested and they are drawing the same amount as his, which was normal. So, it may not be the taillights. It may be a really really horrible coincidence. I may keep my battery on a tender just in case, especially since it isn't a daily driver any longer. This will at least help keep my battery alive, and my wallet happier.

Originally Posted by MGD

You can put the probes either way,you will only change the reading from negative to positive, it doesn't matter. If you do the test, make sure all stuff is turned off. Close the doors, pull the light bulb from the trunk, it will draw some current. Give it a minute or two to stabilize. All your components like BCM and all computers will draw some current. Your meter has to stay on A/DC like you had it.

Thanks a ton for helping me out and spending time out of your Sunday for helping out a person you don't even know . You were a huge help, and I can at least rest knowing the car is drawing normal power. I'll keep everyone updated on the issue though, and whether or not I find another dead battery in the near future (without me putting the car on a tender of course ).

[zkdreads]

welp i called it. just return the lights and get a refund. if you have to do ALLLLLL this to test cables, connections, wires etc etc. its not worth it. just like somebody said, your going to have in the back of your head all the time now " is my car going to start today". peace of mine, get your money back and then you can just say at least i tried!