12-23-2012, 04:31 PM | #29 |
Drives: 2015 c7 Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: MI
Posts: 7,462
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I wont worry about the stock timing chain, you have a warranty anyways. even people like me who are modded, don't even change the chain. (some of us) its rare to see one break.
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12-23-2012, 04:37 PM | #30 | |
Drives: 2015 c7 Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: MI
Posts: 7,462
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and now my dad is getting a 2013 911 turbo this spring that i will be driving also. i earned the trust to drive it. |
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12-23-2012, 04:57 PM | #31 | |
Drives: 2SS/RS Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 7,182
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EDIT: after messing around with a loan calculator, to get the payment for a 5 year loan within your comfort zone you will need to increase your down payment to $15k if you buy an SS. |
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12-23-2012, 06:26 PM | #32 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Grand Island NY
Posts: 248
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Dont start with a V6, if you are going to buy a camaro get an SS. Im 30 and when I was 18 I was determined to own a Trans Am WS6 but it never materialized because of insurance costs, not really the cost of the car. If you can swing the insurance, get a decent finance rate (Im @ 3.25%, so if its under 5% that should be reasonable for you with a cosigner), and if you can swing the gas on a car that gets 18MPG...do it. But if you'll be car poor it probably wont be worth it. Whats the point of having a sweet ride to pull up to the resteraunt in but cant afford the tab?
This car is best enjoyed as a TOY...not a daily driver, so gas shouldnt be a concern neither should the payment. My 2010 SS was purchased in April 2012 for $30,000, with 1,100 miles. Monthly cost comes out to about $460/mo 5yrs + roughly $200/mo in gas per month when driven regulary to and from work (12mi one way) + $80 insurnace (but im 30), so figure I pay $740 a month all total and with your age and higher rate you'll need about $1,000/mo. to afford it.
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Maxima SE (Traded) Camaro SS Hummer H3 |
12-23-2012, 07:04 PM | #33 |
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You are putting way to much thought into it. IMO and many others, there isn't much to fall in love with the stock V8 exhaust sound...its kinda weak. Secondly, you say you never go over the speed limit or accelerate hard, but then you are asking if you can "Accelerate from a dead stop with flowing traffic to match their speed"??? You are contradicting yourself. Whether you get a V6 or a V8 I can ensure you will catch up to flowing traffic even if you are at a dead stop. There are many V6 owners that are stating they are not getting good gas mileage. Actually it seems like my V8 A6 is getting just as good of gas mileage as theres. Of course, I didn't buy this car thinking about trying to save money on fuel. I bought it because I loved the body and power of the vehicle. As far as financing or insurance, you really just need to go talk to your bank or insurance agent to get them most accurate information.
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2011 Camaro 2SS/RS, Circle D 3200, ADM Transmission Cooler, BTR Valvetrain, Cam Motion .621 .595 228/244 113+4, ARH 1 7/8 full exhaust, Cold Air Inductions, Katech C5R TC, Melling HV, BTR SLR lifters, Trunion Upgrade, LS2 Dampner, LS9 head gaskets, Bo White PTB, MM can, GFX, Subs, B&M Deep transmission pan,
Holley fuel rail, Proform valve covers, relocated coil packs |
12-23-2012, 07:08 PM | #34 | |
Drives: 2010 2SS Camaro silver black stripe Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Palmyra, NJ
Posts: 159
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Definitely go for what you want, but don't put yourself in trouble for it. meaning if you really want to get a V8, get it, but don't go broke for it, as you can get a V6 that has just enough power, a really good suspension and good brakes. Indeed if you put 12000 down, by then, and you find one around $28000(about 30000 miles), and you get interest around 6% you will be able to afford.
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AIRAID cold air intake, Borla headers long tubes stainless steel, MBPR Performance Cat back X-pipes,custom cam from Virginia Speed, CNC Ported Heads from TEA, Heritage grill
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12-24-2012, 07:31 AM | #35 | |
Buick 455 Fan
Drives: 1970 Buick, 2012 1SS LS3 Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Boston MA
Posts: 5,957
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For example, I drive back roads to work each morning because the highway is jammed at 6 am here, and I take the highway back because the backroads have schools and school buses, which really screws up traffic. On the way to work, I get 23 mpg in my LS3. That's back roads, stop signs, lights, etc- but no traffic. On the way home, on the highway, I get 18 mpg; it's bumper to bumper. Yesterday I took a trip on the highway, about 160 miles round trip. 90% highway. I reset my MPG calculator before I left. I got 27 MPG- there was no real traffic for a change, I was able to cruise at ~1500 rpm, 65 mph, the whole way Question #2. Read this carefully: The gas pedal is not an on/off switch. Back in 1969, when you could get a 427 with 430 BHP in a Camaro that weighed MUCH less than a new Camaro, tires were not nearly as good, suspensions were primitive and there were no antilock brakes or stability control, the mere act of downshifting and passing another car did not make you crash. I don't mean to sound like I'm being mean, but if your three examples are worries for you, you need to drive a little bit better. Everyone today that didn't grow up driving RWD cars through rain, snow, etc, has this very bizarre impression that RWD cars spin like a top and swap ends routinely, and that to be 'safe' you need FWD or AWD. It's complete bullshit. The car makes a fair bit of torque. It doesn't make 'a lot', especially compared to it's weight. And frankly, throttle response at low rpms sucks royally. Unless you're a complete dolt behind the wheel, you're worried about nothing Question #3. Warranty is transferable. You won;t have the full warranty a new car has, but you will go out and select a used car with warranty remaining, is all. In addition, I recommend checking local laws about implied warranty or 'lemon laws' on the sale of any vehicle. if the sale is through a dealership, some type of warranty should apply, somewhere on the vehicle. I don;t know WA law. If a private sale, beware of the term "as is" Question #4. More up front is best. You are not just paying the remainder of your loan, remember your interest rate, etc. Do not talk to them about the payment "you can afford". That is a dirty trick in my opinion, that gets you to see the payments their way. Know what you can really, honestly afford, and don't tell them. Tell them- show me the numbers and we'll talk. Also, sometimes zero percent financing is best, sometimes taking a percentage rate may be best. Talk to them about both scenarios. Also, if you are making a trade in, it's good to not agree to the trade in until you see numbers you like, and then offer it Most importantly- know what you're talking about on the car. Research it. Know it. That way when they start to BS you, you'll know
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Last edited by ChrisBlair; 12-24-2012 at 08:11 AM. |
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12-24-2012, 07:36 AM | #36 | |
Drives: GM Vehicles Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 9,328
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Quote:
Please let us know if you get the car of your dreams. We are here to help in any way! Brandon Chevrolet Customer Service
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12-24-2012, 07:37 AM | #37 | |
Buick 455 Fan
Drives: 1970 Buick, 2012 1SS LS3 Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Boston MA
Posts: 5,957
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I drove, for many years as a daily driver, a hot-rodded muscle car with a 7.5L engine, big tube headers with 3" collectors, a high lift cam, and a DOT approved 2.5" true dual exhaust It sets off car alarms as you drive by, which is loads of fun And it gives you an f'n HEADACHE when you drive it 100 miles. And the cops give me a hard time. And it annoys my neighbors when I take it to work. And it's hard to hear the radio clearly when you're going over 50 mph I like the Camaro's stock exhaust sound just fine
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12-24-2012, 08:29 AM | #38 |
Don't tread on me
Drives: 23 Sierra X31, Past 2017 Fifty 2SS Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: United States
Posts: 846
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If you're worried about MPG, go with a V6, it'll still be INCREDIBLY fast going from something with 115 HP :P
EDIT: Also, if this will be a DD, a V6 might suit you a little better. There are people here who only swear by V8, and 10-15 years ago, I'd have agreed too. My main reason in getting my 2LT/RS over a 2SS/RS was that I drive 80 miles round trip and probably put another 20-30 in town daily. I can comfortably afford my payments now, I will get an SS/Z28 (if they come out) one day, but for now, this makes me happy, and this is what I can comfortably afford. |
12-24-2012, 09:54 AM | #39 | |
Drives: 2015 2LT Torch Red C7 Stingray Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1,807
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Whoa! That's a whole lotta words dude! LS3 or bust. [/thread] |
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12-24-2012, 11:15 AM | #40 |
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Drives: bbbbbb Join Date: Dec 2012
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I mentioned in my post you needed to check into insurance. One more thing is you can go to your lender and find out what it will cost you a month for payments. You just need the amount you plan to borrow and any lender can tell you interest and payments for the length of the loan. Unless you find and exceptional deal on a V8, or V6 for that matter, you are going to find it hard to get a loan payment under $350. I just don't see you driving an SS with that low of a payment but I could be wrong. I researched the hell out the V8 and the V6 and just could not justify spending $10k more new or used. When I was looking for the last 1 and a half I was finding used SS with under 20k miles on them for $32k. The same LT was low $20k and the LS was under $20k. I ended up buying a brand new LT last Spring for around $25k and the same package in the SS was at least $36k. Buy what you can afford even if it is the V6. I don't regret buying mine and had drove the SS before this purchase. As much as I wanted one I stuck with the V6 and don't regret it at all. One day I am thinking I will buy an SS.
Dean. |
12-24-2012, 11:19 AM | #41 |
Drives: 2010 1LT RS Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Halifax,MA
Posts: 191
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12-24-2012, 11:23 AM | #42 |
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