CAI & ATI + 5% Pulley Installed - Page 6 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Shrek · 08-18-2014, 11:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jayno20

Would that make a big difference?

They say it does but i had no problems getting it pushed on the hub.

hammdo · 08-18-2014, 11:40 PM

I did the install (10% pulley) on my L99 -- Used a fly wheel holder and LS3 install tool - worked like a champ...

Midway down the post are the tools I used:

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...=368187&page=4

-Don

jayno20 · 08-21-2014, 07:52 PM

Got the ARP bolt and torqued it down to 235ft lbs (as per the instructions) which was a huge pain the butt, but I think it isn't staying at 235. Just for giggles I put my torque wrench in there today and tightened it down again and it wasn't still at 235..

Any reason it could be doing this?

2013 ZL1 #7860 · 08-22-2014, 03:53 PM

Thanks to the OP for all the information! I really appreciate it! This should be a sticky.

Mine goes on tomorrow morning. Hopefully it goes well!

Blueclyde · 08-23-2014, 05:35 PM

There were other similar threads back in 2012 when the ZL1 first came out. It's a fairly simple mod and I'm surprised more people don't add the cold air intake and 5% pulley.

JackalopeZL1 · 08-23-2014, 05:39 PM

Have you put it on a DYNO? before and after?

2013 ZL1 #7860 · 08-23-2014, 07:36 PM

Just finished the install and used this thread a lot! Thank you for posting!

The install went great. The car sounds awesome and the gains a very noticeable!

Blueclyde · 08-23-2014, 11:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JackalopeZL1

Have you put it on a DYNO? before and after?

I have not.

cdjnight · 08-23-2014, 11:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jayno20

Got the ARP bolt and torqued it down to 235ft lbs (as per the instructions) which was a huge pain the butt, but I think it isn't staying at 235. Just for giggles I put my torque wrench in there today and tightened it down again and it wasn't still at 235..

Any reason it could be doing this?

DO NOT DO THIS AGAIN...unless you want to destroy the crank threads and/or break the bolt off in the crank. What you are doing is stretching the threads...if i was you i'd go buy a new bolt and do it again...ONE TIME.;-) If you're worried barrow a very good torque wrench, ie..snapon or matco. Re-torqueing bolts usually in tales loosening and then re-torque. Only time if every heard of this being done otherwise is on engine with aluminum heads, becuse the heat and cold cycles move so much farther than iron.

jayno20 · 08-24-2014, 01:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdjnight

DO NOT DO THIS AGAIN...unless you want to destroy the crank threads and/or break the bolt off in the crank. What you are doing is stretching the threads...if i was you i'd go buy a new bolt and do it again...ONE TIME.;-) If you're worried barrow a very good torque wrench, ie..snapon or matco. Re-torqueing bolts usually in tales loosening and then re-torque. Only time if every heard of this being done otherwise is on engine with aluminum heads, becuse the heat and cold cycles move so much farther than iron.

Oh shit. OK glad I posted that then. Would another bolt be necessary since it's an arp? Is it ok to just leave it as it is?

Matt_ZL1 · 08-24-2014, 06:58 AM

What if the balancer isn't seated and after running it seats a little bit more and he torques it? If a bolt,is torqued correctly you should be able to go back a In a year and it should still click without turning.

jon6.0 · 08-24-2014, 11:23 AM

He has the ARP bolt. It doesn't stretch like the stock TTY bolt. It shouldn't change like mentioned above unless the balancer moved a little.

jayno20 · 08-24-2014, 11:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jon6.0

He has the ARP bolt. It doesn't stretch like the stock TTY bolt. It shouldn't change like mentioned above unless the balancer moved a little.

This is what I was thinking originally.

jon6.0 · 08-24-2014, 12:13 PM

If you are going to re-torque it I would loosen it first and then re-torque. When a bolt is already torqued down there is frictional forces involved that you have to overcome to get the bolt moving again. You could exceed your torque spec getting the bolt to move. You could also not be torqued to what you think because the friction is keeping the bolt from moving and you get a "click" before the bolt breaks free.

08-23-2014, 05:39 PM	#76
JackalopeZL1 Drives: 2013 ZL1 Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Nor Cal Posts: 481	Have you put it on a DYNO? before and after? __________________ 2013 Silver ZL1

08-24-2014, 11:23 AM	#82
jon6.0 Going for Plaid Drives: 2011 C6 Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Phoenix Posts: 885	He has the ARP bolt. It doesn't stretch like the stock TTY bolt. It shouldn't change like mentioned above unless the balancer moved a little. __________________ 2014 ZL1, manual trans, carbon hood insert, Rotofab, Pacesetter 1 7/8" headers, 1" drop BMR springs, stock pulleys, 91 octane tune, 545rwhp & 515rwtq Serviced and modded by Cordes Performance. 2011 C6, 750rwhp, forged LS3, ported LSA heads, Vortech Ti-trim, 227/243 115+4 Lunati cam, ported LS3 intake, Alky Control methanol, Pfadt sways/shocks/trans mounts, Pfadt tri-y headers(Sold 6/28/14)

08-24-2014, 12:13 PM	#84
jon6.0 Going for Plaid Drives: 2011 C6 Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Phoenix Posts: 885	If you are going to re-torque it I would loosen it first and then re-torque. When a bolt is already torqued down there is frictional forces involved that you have to overcome to get the bolt moving again. You could exceed your torque spec getting the bolt to move. You could also not be torqued to what you think because the friction is keeping the bolt from moving and you get a "click" before the bolt breaks free. __________________ 2014 ZL1, manual trans, carbon hood insert, Rotofab, Pacesetter 1 7/8" headers, 1" drop BMR springs, stock pulleys, 91 octane tune, 545rwhp & 515rwtq Serviced and modded by Cordes Performance. 2011 C6, 750rwhp, forged LS3, ported LSA heads, Vortech Ti-trim, 227/243 115+4 Lunati cam, ported LS3 intake, Alky Control methanol, Pfadt sways/shocks/trans mounts, Pfadt tri-y headers(Sold 6/28/14)

08-18-2014, 11:40 PM	#72
hammdo 'It's an experiment' Drives: [COTW 2/09/15] '11 GPI LSA SC Z/LE Join Date: May 2014 Location: Dallas TX Posts: 8,694 View My Garage	I did the install (10% pulley) on my L99 -- Used a fly wheel holder and LS3 install tool - worked like a champ... Midway down the post are the tools I used: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...=368187&page=4 -Don

08-21-2014, 07:52 PM	#73
jayno20 Go fast, please. Drives: 2019 Corvette ZR1 Join Date: May 2014 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 2,471 View My Garage	Got the ARP bolt and torqued it down to 235ft lbs (as per the instructions) which was a huge pain the butt, but I think it isn't staying at 235. Just for giggles I put my torque wrench in there today and tightened it down again and it wasn't still at 235.. Any reason it could be doing this?

08-22-2014, 03:53 PM	#74
2013 ZL1 #7860 Drives: 2013 ZL1 A6 #7860 Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: CO, USA Posts: 1,279	Thanks to the OP for all the information! I really appreciate it! This should be a sticky. Mine goes on tomorrow morning. Hopefully it goes well!

08-23-2014, 05:35 PM	#75
Blueclyde Drives: 2023 ZLE Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Detroit Posts: 1,717	There were other similar threads back in 2012 when the ZL1 first came out. It's a fairly simple mod and I'm surprised more people don't add the cold air intake and 5% pulley.

08-23-2014, 07:36 PM	#77
2013 ZL1 #7860 Drives: 2013 ZL1 A6 #7860 Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: CO, USA Posts: 1,279	Just finished the install and used this thread a lot! Thank you for posting! The install went great. The car sounds awesome and the gains a very noticeable!

08-24-2014, 06:58 AM	#81
Matt_ZL1 Drives: ZL1 Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: FL Posts: 83	What if the balancer isn't seated and after running it seats a little bit more and he torques it? If a bolt,is torqued correctly you should be able to go back a In a year and it should still click without turning.