Drive Shaft Bolt Torque Procedure on SS? - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Ron66Vette&10SS · 12-06-2012, 07:09 PM

Does anyone know the torque setting for the 3 Bolts securing the Driveshaft to rear differential input shaft? I'm talking about the bolts that thread into the diff input shaft, not the ones secured with nuts. if it makes a difference, it's an LS3.

Spektrum · 12-06-2012, 07:21 PM

Propeller shaft to rear differential flange bolt = 85 lb ft

Hope that's what you're looking for

Ron66Vette&10SS · 12-06-2012, 10:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spektrum

Propeller shaft to rear differential flange bolt = 85 lb ft

Hope that's what you're looking for

Yup, that's what I'm looking for

Does the manual call for loc-tite?

Spektrum · 12-07-2012, 10:29 AM

I referenced AllData for this information and it didn't not specify, but to answer your question: Most likely yes, you need to use loc-tite.

If the flange on the driveshaft is a different metal (aluminum mating against steel, for example) than the pinion flange then you need to, due to the metals expanding at different temperatures. You could probably inspect the old bolts and see that it was previously used on the threads.

Sorry it took so long to get back to you. Good luck!

Russell James · 12-07-2012, 10:36 AM

You should be using new bolts which come coated. If your using something without coating, then yes on the loctite. More loctite will never hurt if there is a question.

Ron66Vette&10SS · 12-07-2012, 11:24 AM

Cool.....thanks guys

I've got 3 bolts coming which should be here next week. I'll see if they already have a stripe of threadlock on it when they come in.

Last year I had a bolt break and the other 2 bend. They ended up replacing the differential input shaft, coupler, diff seal and bolts. After waiting a week for parts, it still took them a couple of days to get the work done. Then a couple weeks later it started vibrating again.....got underneath it and saw that the bolts were backing out. Took it back to the dealer, the mechanic claimed he torqued it correctly (yeah, right!) and they replaced (supposedly) the bolts again.....anothr couple of days down. When I picked it up the second time, the service manager asked me if I realized how much more the rear tires were worn than the fronts, smiled and said: "You need to stop taking it to the track, brother" (which I never have, by the way).

It'll be a lot easier, quicker and convenient to just replace them myself this time. That way I can be SURE that it's done right, AND I don't have to worry about somebody possibly getting a wild hair and trying to void my powertrain warranty due to allegations of abuse.

Big Brunsy · 02-29-2016, 02:16 PM

How about the other bolts that hold the rubber to the shaft? Same spec?

Big Brunsy · 02-29-2016, 03:06 PM

Anyone else who looks for this info in the future can now find it all here.

Drive shaft to coupler bolts - 67 ft lbs
Coupler to trans flange - 72 ft lbs
Coupler to diff flange - 85 ft lbs

Stingr69 · 03-01-2016, 07:45 AM

Get an inexpensive beam type torque wrench and replace them according to the book. Never reuse the fasteners as they are torque-to-yield and are only good once. Never let the dealership touch the driveshaft bolts. They should not be "re-tightened" in service. If they are loose, the have failed.

sickspeedSS · 07-27-2016, 08:34 AM

67 ft/lbs is for the torx headed bolts with the lock nuts correct??

Quote:

Originally Posted by Big Brunsy

Anyone else who looks for this info in the future can now find it all here.

Drive shaft to coupler bolts - 67 ft lbs
Coupler to trans flange - 72 ft lbs
Coupler to diff flange - 85 ft lbs

sickspeedSS · 07-28-2016, 08:50 AM

can you confirm that the 67 ft/lbs is for the torx bolts?? ive called 3 dealers and they act like its an act of congress to find the torque values for a 2010.

Merc · 07-28-2016, 12:33 PM

Stock driveshaft is the weakest link in the drivetrain, especially in the M6. Bolts can loosen and bend and there a throw at that point.

sickspeedSS · 07-28-2016, 03:49 PM

What kind of replacements are available that will mate with the transmission and stock differential???

Quote:

Originally Posted by Merc

Stock driveshaft is the weakest link in the drivetrain, especially in the M6. Bolts can loosen and bend and there a throw at that point.

Merc · 07-29-2016, 02:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sickspeedSS

What kind of replacements are available that will mate with the transmission and stock differential???

DSS makes a 1 piece aluminum shaft.

12-06-2012, 07:09 PM	#1
Ron66Vette&10SS Plays with Hot Wheels Drives: '17 Jet Black ZL1 Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Derby, Kansas Posts: 849	Drive Shaft Bolt Torque Procedure on SS? Does anyone know the torque setting for the 3 Bolts securing the Driveshaft to rear differential input shaft? I'm talking about the bolts that thread into the diff input shaft, not the ones secured with nuts. if it makes a difference, it's an LS3. __________________ Previous Cars: '78 Z28, '92 Z28, '95 Z28, '85 Corvette, '01 SS, '96 Z28, '04 Z06 Corvette, '10 SS, '13 SS Hot Wheels Current Cars: '17 ZL1(daily driver), '04 Trailblazer (rain & snow), '66 Corvette (restoring)

12-07-2012, 11:24 AM	#6
Ron66Vette&10SS Plays with Hot Wheels Drives: '17 Jet Black ZL1 Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Derby, Kansas Posts: 849	Cool.....thanks guys I've got 3 bolts coming which should be here next week. I'll see if they already have a stripe of threadlock on it when they come in. Last year I had a bolt break and the other 2 bend. They ended up replacing the differential input shaft, coupler, diff seal and bolts. After waiting a week for parts, it still took them a couple of days to get the work done. Then a couple weeks later it started vibrating again.....got underneath it and saw that the bolts were backing out. Took it back to the dealer, the mechanic claimed he torqued it correctly (yeah, right!) and they replaced (supposedly) the bolts again.....anothr couple of days down. When I picked it up the second time, the service manager asked me if I realized how much more the rear tires were worn than the fronts, smiled and said: "You need to stop taking it to the track, brother" (which I never have, by the way). It'll be a lot easier, quicker and convenient to just replace them myself this time. That way I can be SURE that it's done right, AND I don't have to worry about somebody possibly getting a wild hair and trying to void my powertrain warranty due to allegations of abuse. __________________ Previous Cars: '78 Z28, '92 Z28, '95 Z28, '85 Corvette, '01 SS, '96 Z28, '04 Z06 Corvette, '10 SS, '13 SS Hot Wheels Current Cars: '17 ZL1(daily driver), '04 Trailblazer (rain & snow), '66 Corvette (restoring) Last edited by Ron66Vette&10SS; 12-07-2012 at 11:35 AM.

07-28-2016, 12:33 PM	#12
Merc In The Circle Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SSRS IOM M6 Join Date: May 2009 Location: Abbotsford BC Canada Posts: 11,291	Stock driveshaft is the weakest link in the drivetrain, especially in the M6. Bolts can loosen and bend and there a throw at that point. __________________ My Build Thread

12-06-2012, 07:21 PM	#2
Spektrum Drives: 2013 2SS 1LE Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Behind you! Posts: 488 View My Garage	Propeller shaft to rear differential flange bolt = 85 lb ft Hope that's what you're looking for

12-07-2012, 10:29 AM	#4
Spektrum Drives: 2013 2SS 1LE Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Behind you! Posts: 488 View My Garage	I referenced AllData for this information and it didn't not specify, but to answer your question: Most likely yes, you need to use loc-tite. If the flange on the driveshaft is a different metal (aluminum mating against steel, for example) than the pinion flange then you need to, due to the metals expanding at different temperatures. You could probably inspect the old bolts and see that it was previously used on the threads. Sorry it took so long to get back to you. Good luck!

12-07-2012, 10:36 AM	#5
Russell James Drives: '15 SS 1LE, '69 Z28 drag car Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Mich Posts: 4,482	You should be using new bolts which come coated. If your using something without coating, then yes on the loctite. More loctite will never hurt if there is a question.

02-29-2016, 02:16 PM	#7
Big Brunsy Drives: 2010 supercharged LS3 Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Le Mars, Iowa Posts: 2,235 View My Garage	How about the other bolts that hold the rubber to the shaft? Same spec?

02-29-2016, 03:06 PM	#8
Big Brunsy Drives: 2010 supercharged LS3 Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Le Mars, Iowa Posts: 2,235 View My Garage	Anyone else who looks for this info in the future can now find it all here. Drive shaft to coupler bolts - 67 ft lbs Coupler to trans flange - 72 ft lbs Coupler to diff flange - 85 ft lbs

03-01-2016, 07:45 AM	#9
Stingr69 '69 Owned Since '79 Drives: '69 Z/28 LeMans Blue w/White Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: LR AR Posts: 1,847 View My Garage	Get an inexpensive beam type torque wrench and replace them according to the book. Never reuse the fasteners as they are torque-to-yield and are only good once. Never let the dealership touch the driveshaft bolts. They should not be "re-tightened" in service. If they are loose, the have failed.

07-28-2016, 08:50 AM	#11
sickspeedSS Drives: 2010 Camaro SS M6 Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Huntingdon Posts: 120	can you confirm that the 67 ft/lbs is for the torx bolts?? ive called 3 dealers and they act like its an act of congress to find the torque values for a 2010.