ANYONE'S BRAKE DISCS RUSTING? - Page 3 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

HaveBlue · 08-09-2009, 12:59 PM

Rotors are heat sinks. GM has tried "composite" rotors in the past with a higher aluminum content to save weight. Yeah, you guessed, terrible rotors, would warp in no time. Higher iron content in a good thing. Putting any coating on your rotor will have that coating is transfered to your pad surface and end up glazing it. It can then transfer back to the rotor when it gets really hot and form those little ridges you may have seen. This will give you the dreaded 'pulsing" feeling during braking. The rotors won't be warped just fouled. 3M makes a nice kit to sand those ridges off. Turning rotors is a short term fix. I only do it if I'm selling the car and don't want to put new rotors on it. Since a rotor is a heat sink, if you really did warp it, that means you exceeded that rotors ability to absorb and shed that heat. If you do it a lot (open track days) you need a bigger, thicker rotor. Turning a rotor REMOVES material reducing mass and as a result the rotor is less efficient than before and will have a lower heat threshold before warping.
Rotors are also a consumable part.

weeno310 · 01-16-2011, 09:52 PM

sup guys.. i live up here in canada and i'm not driving my ride over the winter period.. i just don't want it to be exposed to all the salt and crap from the winter roads.. it's the 2010 model by the way.. so it's winterized n' covered up.. anyway i have noticed some rust developing on the brake disks.. it is made of iron, which is incredibly vulnerable to oxidation, so i guess that's normal.. a good 10 min drive on a clean day sometime soon should fix that..

oldfriend · 01-17-2011, 12:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BryanB

Every car does that, if you drive it probably less than a mile it will be gone.

No , that's not true , only if you use the brakes it will be clean !!!

oldfriend · 01-17-2011, 12:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FNKNSTN

Very clever. Lubricate devices that rely on friction. He should have consulted with Mr Wizard before he sprayed his brakes.

He could have used the WD40 on his

too!

the Kolektor · 01-17-2011, 12:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by superstockcam

here is my 2009 white Mustang after only one Tahoe winter!

DarkneSS · 01-17-2011, 12:31 AM

I remember when I was 16 I sprayed WD-40 to stop the rust. When I took the car out I had to slam on the brakes to make what is normally an easy stop. Sometimes people just don't know...I wouldn't joke lol.

Ironheadspearo · 01-17-2011, 08:18 AM

if you were to park it for an entire winter I wouldn't see any harm in taking somelightweight oil and applying it with a rag to the rotors. when you take the vehicle out for the first drive ride the brake pedal a little while motoring at a safe slower speed. it will quickly burn off any oil residue. i wouldnt be doing this often because these rotors show light rust after a wash but for a long term park it wouldnt kill your brake system

nUcLeArEnVoY · 01-17-2011, 08:21 AM

My brakes rust whenever I wash my car. Then it's gone when I start driving. It's normal.

Ironheadspearo · 01-17-2011, 09:00 AM

I would reccomend if your washing a car and then storing it to at least drive it around the block before parking it to knock off the rust caused from the car wash. usually they wont rust back up once driven

derklug · 01-17-2011, 09:44 AM

Get ceramic rotors like Porshe offers, it should only run you around 15k.

IROCTPI · 01-17-2011, 11:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldfriend

No , that's not true , only if you use the brakes it will be clean !!!

Not to ruin your joke... But don't the pads constantly rub against the rotors?

IROCTPI · 01-17-2011, 11:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DarkneSS

I remember when I was 16 I sprayed WD-40 to stop the rust. When I took the car out I had to slam on the brakes to make what is normally an easy stop. Sometimes people just don't know...I wouldn't joke lol.

Did the same thing a few years ago when I though I was *fixing* the mild rust on our durango LMAO, suprisenly the brake peformance didnt degrade an WHOLE lot, but it was noticable a bit, I think the drum brakes saved us there

Ivas · 01-17-2011, 12:57 PM

Nah, man, skip that wimpy WD-40. Use 90 weight gear oil or axle grease!

robsls3 · 01-18-2011, 12:15 PM

Man I cant count how many times I fixed somebodies car because of this. They had break squeal and they sprayed WD40 to stop it. Pads shot to crap. In the 90's you had the option of El-cheapo organic pads or semi metallics. People wanted El-cheapo organics. Well those acted like sponges to WD40 if you sprayed it on everyday. I had a few that were towed in and the pad it self was soft like a sponge from water and WD40.

01-16-2011, 09:52 PM	#30
weeno310 embrace the random Drives: 2LT/RS M6 in ABM + White RS's Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Markham, Ontario, Canada Posts: 62	sup guys.. i live up here in canada and i'm not driving my ride over the winter period.. i just don't want it to be exposed to all the salt and crap from the winter roads.. it's the 2010 model by the way.. so it's winterized n' covered up.. anyway i have noticed some rust developing on the brake disks.. it is made of iron, which is incredibly vulnerable to oxidation, so i guess that's normal.. a good 10 min drive on a clean day sometime soon should fix that.. __________________ Last edited by weeno310; 01-16-2011 at 10:03 PM.

01-17-2011, 08:18 AM	#35
Ironheadspearo ride the pain train Drives: 2011 1LT RS, 1998 fxstc HD Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Daytona Beach Posts: 2,047	if you were to park it for an entire winter I wouldn't see any harm in taking somelightweight oil and applying it with a rag to the rotors. when you take the vehicle out for the first drive ride the brake pedal a little while motoring at a safe slower speed. it will quickly burn off any oil residue. i wouldnt be doing this often because these rotors show light rust after a wash but for a long term park it wouldnt kill your brake system __________________ PAIN is temporary, PRIDE is forever......RACE HARD

01-17-2011, 09:00 AM	#37
Ironheadspearo ride the pain train Drives: 2011 1LT RS, 1998 fxstc HD Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Daytona Beach Posts: 2,047	I would reccomend if your washing a car and then storing it to at least drive it around the block before parking it to knock off the rust caused from the car wash. usually they wont rust back up once driven __________________ PAIN is temporary, PRIDE is forever......RACE HARD

01-17-2011, 09:44 AM	#38
derklug Drives: 12 Boss 302 Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Grand Rapids, Mi Posts: 1,369	Get ceramic rotors like Porshe offers, it should only run you around 15k. __________________ The biggest mistakes in life come when you know exactly what you are doing.

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08-09-2009, 12:59 PM	#29
HaveBlue Drives: CTS/CAMARO Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: SEMA/PERF INDUSTRY GUY Posts: 488	Rotors are heat sinks. GM has tried "composite" rotors in the past with a higher aluminum content to save weight. Yeah, you guessed, terrible rotors, would warp in no time. Higher iron content in a good thing. Putting any coating on your rotor will have that coating is transfered to your pad surface and end up glazing it. It can then transfer back to the rotor when it gets really hot and form those little ridges you may have seen. This will give you the dreaded 'pulsing" feeling during braking. The rotors won't be warped just fouled. 3M makes a nice kit to sand those ridges off. Turning rotors is a short term fix. I only do it if I'm selling the car and don't want to put new rotors on it. Since a rotor is a heat sink, if you really did warp it, that means you exceeded that rotors ability to absorb and shed that heat. If you do it a lot (open track days) you need a bigger, thicker rotor. Turning a rotor REMOVES material reducing mass and as a result the rotor is less efficient than before and will have a lower heat threshold before warping. Rotors are also a consumable part.

01-17-2011, 12:31 AM	#34
DarkneSS Account Suspended Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS 6MT Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Westchester, New York Posts: 3,715	I remember when I was 16 I sprayed WD-40 to stop the rust. When I took the car out I had to slam on the brakes to make what is normally an easy stop. Sometimes people just don't know...I wouldn't joke lol.

01-17-2011, 08:21 AM	#36
nUcLeArEnVoY Oldbie that nobody knows Drives: 2011 1SS/RS M6 Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Homestead, FL Posts: 3,459 View My Garage	My brakes rust whenever I wash my car. Then it's gone when I start driving. It's normal.

01-17-2011, 12:57 PM	#41
Ivas el Ruco Drives: 2010 Camaro SS (now runnin' TENS ) Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Fontana, CA Posts: 7,388	Nah, man, skip that wimpy WD-40. Use 90 weight gear oil or axle grease!

01-18-2011, 12:15 PM	#42
robsls3 Account Suspended Drives: 2010 camaro 1SS Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Oaklawn, IL Posts: 862 View My Garage	Man I cant count how many times I fixed somebodies car because of this. They had break squeal and they sprayed WD40 to stop it. Pads shot to crap. In the 90's you had the option of El-cheapo organic pads or semi metallics. People wanted El-cheapo organics. Well those acted like sponges to WD40 if you sprayed it on everyday. I had a few that were towed in and the pad it self was soft like a sponge from water and WD40.