2010 Camaro Stereo BA Speaker Wiring Info

[Aristomones]

Well I tried but Failed a the final stage of trying to lift the rear deck off the metal support frame and it would only come up at the center of the deck!! I checked to make sure all clips, retainer clips etc. were free but to no avail it would not go! I made sure that the car seat harness loops on the deck cleard the holes but still no give! Not to mention scraping my hands and being in a tight closed in area, the back seat of a camaro for a total of 3hrs to, Whew!! So I returned the 6 by 9 infinity kappas speakers for the kicker 6 1/2 " door speakers Hopefully that will be a better experince. Artie

[darenf02]

Sooooo, my question is, why the HELL did Chevy build such an Awesome car, sure-to-be a collector/classic in the years to come, contract with Boston Acoustics for a premium sound, and make is turn out to completely SUCK?!?!?! That absolutely BLOWS MY MIND. In fact, I took my car back to the dealer a few days after delivery because I thought maybe the rear "subs" weren't even plugged in!! Talk about disappointment. I have a suspicion there was a major reason (i.e. $$$) why we had the "option" of purchasing severely overpriced MTX subs/amp when ordering the car: they KNEW the BA bass was non-existent, and they wanted you to spend the extra money. (BTW a car audio/tint shop here in town had the Exact same MTX speaker/amp combo in their shop for X-mas special of $299.) Why cheap-shot us like this when they did such an amazing job on the rest of the car??? Ok...well, maybe they cheaped us on the dash ABL but I'll save that rant for later lol. Yes, I'm throwing up the BS flag here. Oh well, I guess I'll go old school and do the d*mn speakers myself. Grrrrrrrrr *that's me growling at Chevy*

[TAG UR IT]

Originally Posted by RandyB

Bass blockers are a good idea in some factory systems that send a full signal to the speakers. But, these filters will have no effect on the door speakers or front speaker in a BA system, because the Boston amp is already applying a high-pass filter to these outputs. The bass blocker would be trying to eliminate frequencies that are not present.

The rear deck speakers have separate wires for the tweeter and woofer. The tweeters already have a high-pass filter and the woofers have a low-pass filter. Adding bass blockers to the woofers would have about the same effect as un-plugging them, because only low frequencies are being passed from the amp, then if you block them, you essentially have little or nothing left.

If you are just adding a powered sub and not replacing the amp or other speakers, then it might be desirable to disable the 6x9 subs with bass blockers (or un-plugging them). This way you are replacing the crappy bass and not just adding better bass to it.

This still leaves one of the big problems with the BA system, which is no mid-range frequencies coming from the rear at all. There are only tweeters and subs. I think a well designed sub upgrade would also involve routing a new signal to the 6x9 speakers that includes mids, otherwise the 6x9s are wasted.

I beg to differ. I installed the bass blockers and it worked exactly like I wanted it to. Major cut down on the the bass in the doors and not it's not so muddy at higher volume. Yes, it works. Go grab a pair and try it yourself. You can always remove the blockers and reconnect your wires.

Oh, and I was never big on mid-range either.

[Aristomones]

For anyone who is willing to DYI the door speakers: Word of advice is get speaker mounting adapters!! Because the standard 6 1/2" is too small by about 1/2" aprox. so you need an adapter to fill that gap. Or if there's a 6 3/4 that might work but in my case since I spent 2+ hours trying to figure how I'm going to get around this problem. I hate starting something then finding out I cant finish it other than looking to find some extra parts that may not even be avalible! I took the grill that came w/ the kicker spkrs and drilled holes lining up to the spkrs behind the door panel where the spkers face out. Then screwd the screws thru the face side of grilled panel w/ spkrs in place on the panel using screw fastners to hold the spkrs then popped the door panel back on the door! the only problem with this is you have to make sure you line up centerd on the spkr grill then use the spker grill covers that came with the new spkrs so you can cover the screws that show otherwise paint the screws black. Just an option if You like to DYI!! sorry for the long of it!

[RandyB]

Originally Posted by TAG UR IT

I beg to differ. I installed the bass blockers and it worked exactly like I wanted it to. Major cut down on the the bass in the doors and not it's not so muddy at higher volume. Yes, it works. Go grab a pair and try it yourself. You can always remove the blockers and reconnect your wires.

Oh, and I was never big on mid-range either.

So, I read the entire thread again and found that you are using 300Hz bass blockers. These will indeed filter out more bass than the factory high-pass filter. I had (mistakenly) picked up the point in the thread where someone speculated that you were using 50Hz bass blockers.

For those who are not yet ready to upgrade the front speakers and amp, then installing bass blockers in the doors is a good interim solution. 200Hz-300Hz should be about right.

[RandyB]

Originally Posted by Aristomones

For anyone who is willing to DYI the door speakers: Word of advice is get speaker mounting adapters!! Because the standard 6 1/2" is too small by about 1/2" aprox. so you need an adapter to fill that gap. Or if there's a 6 3/4 that might work but in my case since I spent 2+ hours trying to figure how I'm going to get around this problem. I hate starting something then finding out I cant finish it other than looking to find some extra parts that may not even be avalible! I took the grill that came w/ the kicker spkrs and drilled holes lining up to the spkrs behind the door panel where the spkers face out. Then screwd the screws thru the face side of grilled panel w/ spkrs in place on the panel using screw fastners to hold the spkrs then popped the door panel back on the door! the only problem with this is you have to make sure you line up centerd on the spkr grill then use the spker grill covers that came with the new spkrs so you can cover the screws that show otherwise paint the screws black. Just an option if You like to DYI!! sorry for the long of it!

Or you can do this:


I gutted the stock speaker and used it to mount the new Alpine 6.5". It looked very good until I added the weather stripping; which is ugly but serves a purpose. I used a Dremel to do this and it was very easy. Of course the factory speaker is ruined, but one could argue that paper-coned $3 piece of crap was ruined the day it was manufactured. While tearing the paper out, I felt like I was getting revenge for the weeks of torture to my ears. There are no speaker adapters available for the camaro yet and I would have just thrown the old speakers out in the trash, so this seemed like the best option. This mounts exactly like the factory speaker and the weather stripping mates to the inside of the door panel.

[TAG UR IT]

Compared to the factory speakers? How does it sound?

cost of the new Alpines?

Did you add a separate amp for them?

[RandyB]

Originally Posted by TAG UR IT

Compared to the factory speakers? How does it sound?

cost of the new Alpines?

Did you add a separate amp for them?

The Alpine speakers sound MUCH better than the factory BA speakers. I do not attribute this to the Alpine brand (not a fanboy), just the fact that the OEM speakers are cheap. I installed the Alpine Type-R SPR-17S which come with a 6.5", a 1" tweeter and a crossover network. The Boston Acoustics SR-60 or Polk Audio MM-6501 would be equivalent.

Any of the speakers I mentioned can be purchased between $140 and $200 on Amazon.

When I installed these, I first replaced one door so I could compare just the new speakers to the old. The sound was cleaner, but there was still distortion coming from the BA amp which is only pushing about 10-15 watts per channel. Then I installed an Alpine amp and compared both doors again. To be honest, this made a bigger difference than just replacing the speakers, but the stock BA speakers in the other door still sounded harsh; so I finished the 2nd door and I now have a much improved front soundstage.

I am using a 4-channel amp, with 1 channel for each door and the other 2 channels are bridged to power an Alpine sub in the trunk.

[VTodd]

Ok - first - please go easy on me - I am not a sterophile - my cousin and I are trying to install a sub and new front door and rear speakers in a 2010 Camaro.

My quesiton is this - the rear speakers we are installing sound like crap. They are infinity kappa series speakers. But there is only a single input on the speakers where the BA speakers that we pulled out had both the high and the low inputs - is the simple answer - "you just can't use the kappas?" Do I need to specifically find a speaker that has the dual high and low inputs?

[TAG UR IT]

Hrm...good question. I wonder if the inputs are actually putting out different signal strengths. I wonder if you can just cut them and run them in line.

Heck...I don't konw.

[danrc28]

About the bass blockers, wouldnt reducing the bass levels from the HU and increasing the gain on the amp resolve this problem the same way?

[TAG UR IT]

only to a point. if you continue to pull down your bass on the HU, eventually, there will be no low signal FOR the bass. Putting in bass blockers won't completely rid thd mids of bass...just take some out. But, what happens when you have the gain completely up at full volume, but there is a ton of distorted bass from the mids? You have to turn down the stereo bass and turn up the gain on teh subs.

[SILVER BULLITT]

why not just turn the bass down on the head unit and turn the bass gain up on the amp powering the subs
edit: nevermind i read the thread !!!!!

[JohnnyComeLately]

Couple things to add from my beginning of this install:

Speakers say 4 ohms on the back of the tweeter to answer the question. The two are wired in parallel though, with the tweeter running a high pass filter on the + terminal. So I'm thinking these give the factory amp a 2 ohm nominal load. To be honest I didn't look at the factory mid before ditching it in the trash.

Second, piece of cake to modify this for 6.5" Hertz components.

For the tweeter, took the mount which looks like this -> --O-- and chopped to look like this -> -O The "-" part I dremeled down, and then cut about 1/4 around what SHOULD be the front of the mount, and then flipped it around. So with it backwards and cut, you can slide the tweeter in and then use the factory phillips screw to hold it in place.

For the mid, take a screw driver and pry between the front plate and adapter (front plate will be a polished plastic, adapter part is dull). It will pop out with a foam seal attached. Cut out the speaker. Use tin snips to make short work of all internal bracing for factory speaker. Then use a dremel to carefully take the bracing down until it's even with the inside of where the stock speakers cone used to wrap around the front (and then get held by the front ring you popped out first).

Using a C shaped file I niced it all up and then marked 4 holes. Pre-drilled speaker screw holes, and then carefully pulled the foam from the stock front ring. I used the foam to go between the mid's basket and the adapter.

Done!! (well, not really, then I spent about 2 hours analyzing and figuring out how i was going to get Dynomat on the inside of the door, to cover the inside of the exterior skin.).

Now that I've got most of this sorted, I'll post pics when I do the driver side (and start a new thread for any Hertz HSK 165 speaker installs.