01-23-2013, 08:07 PM | #1 |
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Wheel hop solution needed
okay so installed my pfadt trainling arms and toe links. still have wheel hop.
trying to decide between the lg motorsports brace and the pfadt solid subframe bushings. http://www.pfadtracing.com/catalog/p...roducts_id/188 http://www.lgmotorsports.com/product...oducts_id=2290 obviouly the LG solution is cheaper and easier to install. it is also heavier and will not elimnate all the bushing deflection. main goal is whell hop elminated cost is not an issue.
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01-23-2013, 08:13 PM | #2 |
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Go with the Pfadt solid cradle bushings, replace the diff bushings and possible driveshaft upgrade if that is not enough....
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01-23-2013, 08:15 PM | #3 |
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Im not sure about solids but i do agree you need to work in that area.
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01-23-2013, 08:53 PM | #4 |
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why would I need driveshaft upgrade?
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01-23-2013, 09:05 PM | #5 |
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Trailing arms will make the biggest impact with wheel hop IMO
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01-23-2013, 09:06 PM | #6 |
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Takes the flex out of the coupler
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01-23-2013, 09:22 PM | #7 |
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I would hesitate on the solid bushings unless you do not mind extra noise and harshness. But they are effective. To me a bushing upgrade is more effective than the LG brace. It will also help with rear step out. I also understand a wheel alignment change can help reduce the hop.
Even after all that you can still have hop in cold weather with TC off and if you overwhelm traction control. But in warm weather with TC off you should be good.
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01-23-2013, 10:32 PM | #8 |
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already on the car still have some.
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01-23-2013, 10:42 PM | #9 | |
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Quote:
every contact point is isolated again if you think about. diff, crontol arms, trainling arms, toe rods, etc are all bushed. it is obviouly going to ride a tad rougher in certian situations but I am not sure that is bad if the cusion is you rear subframe moving. maybe I should wait for a warmer day. in my Z06 I had wheel hop and it pissed me off. in my last mustang I had MM spherical control arms and subframe connectors. zero hop under any condition. it was just erased. if you think about a solid frame car the body is isollated but the front and rear are connected. that is why I was considering some solutions like that that connect the two.
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01-23-2013, 10:54 PM | #10 |
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01-24-2013, 08:28 AM | #11 |
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there is a video of the hotchkis chassis max brace on youbube. You can see the pfadt solution is more effective but at the same time the solution minimized deflection quite a bit.
$690+harder install+$50 rear alingment. so $740 + 4-6hr install vs $465 to my door 30-60min install no rear alingment. I am torn. in my mind I think I should do the pfadt bushings but it is so much easier to do the LG or hotchkis brace.
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