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Old 07-10-2017, 12:41 PM   #15
pyroguy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ir0nM4n View Post
As far as welds go between Speed Engineering headers and Kooks as I have owned both the difference is night and day. Yes I have pictures, does it effect performance not at all well all the non scientific research I have performed. I just didn't like the welds and Speed Engineering was gracious enough to return my money minus shipping cost (that's normal). I do not work for Kooks I just didn't like the welds on the Speed Engineering headers.

I disagree but this is in no way an attempt to be correct. Just a difference of opinion.
Sorry, this was not an attack on Speed Engineering. It is a VERY popular brand of budget friendly headers by many forum members but like you said, their welds are not winning any beauty contests. The headers pictured by the OP have awful looking welds from looking at the pictures. The comparison was to say that Speed Engineering headers welds look even better than what these look like. As others have guessed I would also guess eBay brand headers. They don't look super quality and having to dent the tubes to make them fit shouldn't hurt performance, but they don't help them look pretty.
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Old 07-10-2017, 01:00 PM   #16
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Even if the dents and dimples have negligible effect on performance, I still would not want them. It would bother the heck out of me each time I see them.
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Old 07-10-2017, 05:07 PM   #17
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I don't think I'd take these even if they were free..
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Old 07-10-2017, 05:47 PM   #18
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The bolt holes appear to be LS engine so its most likely some cheap headers and mild stainless if you could find out info from the sticker with the bar code.. say like scan it...you would know, and hey just get some good cats for it and new gaskets there is no reason not to run them many of us old motorheads have had to clearance some headers for drive shafts and such....You could always wrap them also and cover up any defect.
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Old 07-10-2017, 06:45 PM   #19
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These are my speed engineering headers. I think they are top notch. I'd be interested in seeing the poor weld job that was returned...
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Old 07-10-2017, 10:01 PM   #20
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Thanks for all the info guys! The person that was gonna sell it to me is selling for like 65 bucks. Pretty much told me if it doesn't work out for me by using them just give it back to him and he will just use it for his vehicle. Since his car has our engine in it. I took these photos so I already looked at them in person. For all I know they may be some cheap headers. But I'll take my chances with them and try em out. I was gonna get some shorty headers anyway if they don't work. I'll check out the video that was provided and I'll post up information about what happens in the coming week!
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Old 07-10-2017, 10:05 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by christianchevell View Post
The bolt holes appear to be LS engine so its most likely some cheap headers and mild stainless if you could find out info from the sticker with the bar code.. say like scan it...you would know, and hey just get some good cats for it and new gaskets there is no reason not to run them many of us old motorheads have had to clearance some headers for drive shafts and such....You could always wrap them also and cover up any defect.
Forget the dents! How am I the only one that has noticed that the end of the collectors were cut off and bright shiny new pieces were welded on just after the merge?

Christian, I promise you that bar code does NOT belong to those headers. It belongs to the shiny new pipe that was used to repair the collectors.

Only 2 reasons I can think of that you would need to do that. First: To change the collector flange type. They may have originally been ball & socket or 3 bolt flange type and the original owner liked slip-fit? Second: The collector ends were severely damaged to the point that they had to be cut off and new ones welded back on. I am very curious what the merge spike looks like after the repair...if they even have merge spikes.

Look at the collectors. When have you ever seen a weld in that spot just after the merge? And it is painfully obvious just by looking at the shiny brand new ends on the collectors that do not match the heat patina.
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Old 07-10-2017, 10:14 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InFiD3ViL View Post
Christian, I promise you that bar code does NOT belong to those headers. It belongs to the pipe that was used to repair the collectors.

How am I the only one that has noticed that the end of the collectors were cut off and bright shiny new pieces were welded on?
You are right it's pretty clear they are different I've noticed so I was a bit confused on what I was gonna use to put on cats. Cause I don't know how to run with no cats and pass emission tests and whatnot
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Old 07-10-2017, 10:15 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clarkstar View Post
These are my speed engineering headers. I think they are top notch. I'd be interested in seeing the poor weld job that was returned...
Same. Mine looked just like that as well.
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Old 07-10-2017, 10:24 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Austin48624 View Post
You are right it's pretty clear they are different I've noticed so I was a bit confused on what I was gonna use to put on cats. Cause I don't know how to run with no cats and pass emission tests and whatnot
Well they still look like proper slip-fit style flanges, just repaired for some reason. Texas Speed and Speed Engineering headers use that type of flange.

The inlet end of your high flow cats will 'slip' over the end of the collectors and get clamped down. So you could definitely put cats on those without issue.

But $65? Assuming you don't have tons of money to throw around, I would take a chance for that price. If you were going to get headers anyway and money isn't a huge issue, do some research and get exactly the headers that YOU picked out.
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Last edited by InFiD3ViL; 07-10-2017 at 10:35 PM.
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Old 08-04-2017, 05:54 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clarkstar View Post
These are my speed engineering headers. I think they are top notch. I'd be interested in seeing the poor weld job that was returned...
Sorry I didn't get back earlier, I have the images on my home computer and have posted them here. I just don't want to be a spammer, though I will find them and post again. My issue was not on the outside welds, it was the merge spike and the tubes that connect to the plate looking from the plate (holes) side they seems smaller.

I will find them.

Just an FYI, I am not here to bash the product just inform what I found and what I found could of been a 1 in 1000, like Hard Drives every once in a while you will get a defective one doesn't mean all of them are defective.
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