03-27-2011, 01:02 PM | #29 |
Booooosted.
|
I shoulda. I'm gonna have drop it down again.
|
03-27-2011, 01:05 PM | #30 |
Drives: aqua 2ss l99 Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Edmonton
Posts: 1,215
|
i found that there was noo need to remove the control arm as the instructions stated.
with the cradle down 6 inches you can easily get the saddle bolts, and remove off the arm.
__________________
May your exhaust note, sing in harmony with your blower.
|
03-27-2011, 01:06 PM | #31 |
Booooosted.
|
Sweet. I'll remember that. I did the trailing arm bushings yesterday, I shoulda just got the control arms too. Both.
|
03-27-2011, 01:08 PM | #32 |
Drives: aqua 2ss l99 Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Edmonton
Posts: 1,215
|
after doing this bushing, i found i would have enginieered the supplied metal parts different.
bmr's kit holds the control arm in a different way from gm. the metal core inside the bushing shoulda been .080 ID smaller, like factory....they are using the torque of the main bolt to hold the bushing square on the arm. at least the big new bushing rides over the second shoulder of the control arm to help with the lateral movement.
__________________
May your exhaust note, sing in harmony with your blower.
|
03-27-2011, 01:19 PM | #33 |
Booooosted.
|
Any Pics?
|
03-27-2011, 01:23 PM | #34 |
Drives: aqua 2ss l99 Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Edmonton
Posts: 1,215
|
no detalied ones.....
but when you gt the control arm kit, and pull out the factory piece, you will then see exactly what i speak of. im just saying i could have improved on the design, but odd as it is, it still works.
__________________
May your exhaust note, sing in harmony with your blower.
|
03-27-2011, 01:41 PM | #35 |
Booooosted.
|
I'll remember to look when I do it.
|
03-27-2011, 08:41 PM | #36 |
Drives: 2010 CAMARO. 10.04@133mph, 1.4 60' Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Lafayette, Louisiana
Posts: 4,585
|
i use a transmission jack to lower the cradle. it tilts front/back, side/side. makes it easy to get the cradle to line back up.
|
03-28-2011, 08:40 PM | #37 |
Drives: 2010 AquaBlue 2SS/RS Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Long Island
Posts: 342
|
To remove the washers I used a Snap-On slide hammer with hook end. Took all of 10 seconds.
|
06-06-2011, 09:26 AM | #38 |
Drives: '69 SS Convertible Join Date: May 2009
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 7,111
|
If I'm just going to do the inserts, do you I need to remove the strut from the lower control arm?
What about supporting the differential like mentioned in a couple posts above. I didn't think that would be necessary with just the inserts. I thought I remember hearing that Pedder's instrustions were to just loosen to the bolts on one end all the way down to the last couple of threads and then remove the other end's bolts. Then do the reverse for the other end. No mention of removing the strut or keeping the differntial strapped down.
__________________
-2010 Camaro 2SS | M6 | VR w/White Stripes | 1 3/4" KOOKS - 3" Magnaflow | LPE 3.91 gears | ADM tuned | Halltech w/ADM Scoop | Spohn/BMR Trailing Arm/Toe Rod | BC Coilovers| Pedders FE4 ZL1 swaybars | Cradle/Diff/Radius Rod bushings | VMax TB | Morimoto Projectors | MGW shifter | Red Calipers
Build Journal |
06-06-2011, 09:36 AM | #39 |
Tips
Put BMR inserts in mine, passing on a a few tips. As mentioned above, don't take all four bolts completly out, I removed the rear's completly, and loosened the fronts enough to drop the rear for access, reversed the process for the front inserts. As to the washers, a 3lb hammer and a big drift, knocked them right off, not difficult at all. Finally, I didn't remove exhaust, just unbolted front, and let is down to ground, rear had enough clearance. Just my experience, hope it helps.
__________________
2010 SIM SS, 6spd Man, Pedders Sway's & End Links, JBA cats, CAI, MGW shifter, SLP Skip Shift, COR F1 Precise Monobloc, 20X9 & 20X11. Pfadt Coilovers, BMR Subframe bushing inserts, BMR rear trailing arms, Pedders Front Radius Rod inserts.
|
|
06-06-2011, 10:22 AM | #40 |
BL1ZZRD
Drives: '16 Camaro 2SS, '20 Equinox Redline Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 7,840
|
No need to remove the struts! Pretty much what jomo45 said except I did remove the rear half of the exhaust, made it easier IMO! It's really much easier to do than what you think. I was a little apprehensive at first till I got going then it was a piece of cake! If you do remove all 4 nuts you will need to support the subframe with a jack under the rear dif. Good luck!
|
06-06-2011, 11:10 AM | #41 | |
Booooosted.
|
Quote:
You're gonna definitely want to support the differential. Or you put pressure or binging weight on the bolts or exhaust. Unless you can get the rear inserts in without releasing the LCAs. But then the strut assembly is holding the whole rear end up. YOu may or may not have to lower your exhaust. I had to remove my whole catback. Good luck, let us know how it turns out. |
|
06-06-2011, 11:21 AM | #42 |
Drives: 2011 Camaro SS/RS LS3 Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,630
|
I didn't remove anything from mine, just loosened up the 4 bolts and away you go. Struts left alone, exhaust left alone. Of course mine is completely stock.
__________________
Yeah, I'll get around to it...
|
|
|
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Installing BMR Pro Cradle Bushing | LS3*LLY | Suspension / Brakes / Chassis | 14 | 03-10-2011 08:53 PM |
Subframe Bush Upgrades. From Simple DIYer to Full Race Capable | Info@PeddersUSA.com | Suspension / Brakes / Chassis | 16 | 05-03-2010 09:29 PM |
New to Suspension (look over list please) | Brokenlizrd | Suspension / Brakes / Chassis | 19 | 04-23-2010 11:31 PM |
Detroit Speed vs. Pedders | usmcjlp | Wheels and Tires Talk Sponsored by The Tire Rack | 35 | 07-22-2009 12:14 AM |