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Old 03-27-2011, 01:02 PM   #29
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kept it stable front to back and from the driveshaft side from dropping down.

and while the cradle was in suspension, i did the upper control arm bushings.
I shoulda. I'm gonna have drop it down again.
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Old 03-27-2011, 01:05 PM   #30
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i found that there was noo need to remove the control arm as the instructions stated.
with the cradle down 6 inches you can easily get the saddle bolts, and remove off the arm.
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Old 03-27-2011, 01:06 PM   #31
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i found that there was noo need to remove the control arm as the instructions stated.
with the cradle down 6 inches you can easily get the saddle bolts, and remove off the arm.
Sweet. I'll remember that. I did the trailing arm bushings yesterday, I shoulda just got the control arms too. Both.
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Old 03-27-2011, 01:08 PM   #32
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after doing this bushing, i found i would have enginieered the supplied metal parts different.
bmr's kit holds the control arm in a different way from gm. the metal core inside the bushing shoulda been .080 ID smaller, like factory....they are using the torque of the main bolt to hold the bushing square on the arm. at least the big new bushing rides over the second shoulder of the control arm to help with the lateral movement.
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Old 03-27-2011, 01:19 PM   #33
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Any Pics?
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Old 03-27-2011, 01:23 PM   #34
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no detalied ones.....

but when you gt the control arm kit, and pull out the factory piece, you will then see exactly what i speak of.
im just saying i could have improved on the design, but odd as it is, it still works.
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Old 03-27-2011, 01:41 PM   #35
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no detalied ones.....

but when you gt the control arm kit, and pull out the factory piece, you will then see exactly what i speak of.
im just saying i could have improved on the design, but odd as it is, it still works.
I'll remember to look when I do it.
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Old 03-27-2011, 08:41 PM   #36
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i use a transmission jack to lower the cradle. it tilts front/back, side/side. makes it easy to get the cradle to line back up.
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Old 03-28-2011, 08:40 PM   #37
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To remove the washers I used a Snap-On slide hammer with hook end. Took all of 10 seconds.
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Old 06-06-2011, 09:26 AM   #38
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If I'm just going to do the inserts, do you I need to remove the strut from the lower control arm?

What about supporting the differential like mentioned in a couple posts above. I didn't think that would be necessary with just the inserts.

I thought I remember hearing that Pedder's instrustions were to just loosen to the bolts on one end all the way down to the last couple of threads and then remove the other end's bolts. Then do the reverse for the other end. No mention of removing the strut or keeping the differntial strapped down.
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Old 06-06-2011, 09:36 AM   #39
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Tips

Put BMR inserts in mine, passing on a a few tips. As mentioned above, don't take all four bolts completly out, I removed the rear's completly, and loosened the fronts enough to drop the rear for access, reversed the process for the front inserts. As to the washers, a 3lb hammer and a big drift, knocked them right off, not difficult at all. Finally, I didn't remove exhaust, just unbolted front, and let is down to ground, rear had enough clearance. Just my experience, hope it helps.
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Old 06-06-2011, 10:22 AM   #40
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No need to remove the struts! Pretty much what jomo45 said except I did remove the rear half of the exhaust, made it easier IMO! It's really much easier to do than what you think. I was a little apprehensive at first till I got going then it was a piece of cake! If you do remove all 4 nuts you will need to support the subframe with a jack under the rear dif. Good luck!
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Old 06-06-2011, 11:10 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caverman View Post
If I'm just going to do the inserts, do you I need to remove the strut from the lower control arm?

What about supporting the differential like mentioned in a couple posts above. I didn't think that would be necessary with just the inserts.

I thought I remember hearing that Pedder's instrustions were to just loosen to the bolts on one end all the way down to the last couple of threads and then remove the other end's bolts. Then do the reverse for the other end. No mention of removing the strut or keeping the differntial strapped down.
You might need to release the LCA from the struts. Depends. If you have coilovers on your car you most certainly WILL have to. A lower set-up doesn't allow the suspension to drop enough. Espec. if you have them adjusted low. I had the stock struts at the time and still had to release the LCAs. I didn't want to have to squeez the rear inserts. Could be the way my cradle was sitting but I had the front bolts all the way off except for a couple threads. Just wouldn't go.

You're gonna definitely want to support the differential. Or you put pressure or binging weight on the bolts or exhaust. Unless you can get the rear inserts in without releasing the LCAs. But then the strut assembly is holding the whole rear end up.

YOu may or may not have to lower your exhaust. I had to remove my whole catback.

Good luck, let us know how it turns out.
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Old 06-06-2011, 11:21 AM   #42
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I didn't remove anything from mine, just loosened up the 4 bolts and away you go. Struts left alone, exhaust left alone. Of course mine is completely stock.
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