Not making boost with Magnuson any input??? - Page 5 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Gen5SS · 12-07-2013, 02:35 AM

I read the thread and have a few questions. Have you checked your cats if you have any? If you do they are probably melted and causing a choke. Also push-rod length, if your push-rods are to long it will leave the valves open and the air will flow by not creating boost. If your bypass is not stuck open and you have no belt slip the things I mentioned might be probable. By the way I am drinking while writing this so I may be way off target.

PIGSMOKR · 12-07-2013, 06:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ayousef

This is precisely why I asked this question yet I missed it out

, yes brake booster connects before the rotors meaning you will never see any boost pressure there. Put back the vacuum hose on the bypass, and connect your boost gauge to a proper BOOST source and try again, this however does not explain why your caar feels so slow and why the blower makes no noise. Might be a good time to calculate your compression ratio and perhaps look at your time, assuming it IS making boost.

Hummmm. I'll give that a try when I get back in town. Everyone told me to hook it up in the brake booster line.

PIGSMOKR · 12-07-2013, 06:36 AM

[QUOTE=Gen5SS;7243316]I read the thread and have a few questions. Have you checked your cats if you have any? If you do they are probably melted and causing a choke. Also push-rod length, if your push-rods are to long it will leave the valves open and the air will flow by not creating boost. If your bypass is not stuck open and you have no belt slip the things I mentioned might be probable. By the way I am drinking while writing this so I may

Somebody else said the same thing earlier about the push rods. I mention to the guy that built the motor he said he didn't think that would be it. And I don't have cats. Bottoms up man lol thx

norris_83 · 12-07-2013, 03:06 PM

There is nothing wrong with your motor. It is all to do with the bypass actuator.

I've had a few vehicles pass by my shop with the exact same problem. The mechanic moved the bypass valve to a different angle so he could route the vacuum hoses easier.

Problems could be related to:
1. Bypass valve faulty
2. Bypass installed at wrong angle
3. Hoses installed incorrectly

Hope this helps.

ayousef · 12-07-2013, 03:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ayousef

This is precisely why I asked this question yet I missed it out

, yes brake booster connects before the rotors meaning you will never see any boost pressure there. Put back the vacuum hose on the bypass, and connect your boost gauge to a proper BOOST source and try again, this however does not explain why your caar feels so slow and why the blower makes no noise. Might be a good time to calculate your compression ratio and perhaps look at your time, assuming it IS making boost.

tune not time.

patternpilot · 12-07-2013, 05:37 PM

Damn no need to get defensive. The valve works perfect. Ran it on dyno and worked as it should. Even plugged the holes which should make the s/c make boost. Boost Guage is t ed into vac line that goes to brake booster. TECHS FROM MAGNUSON EVEN SAID THE MOTOR FLOWS TO MUCH AIR THAT I NEEDED TO ADD THE DIFFERENT PULLEYS. THEY ARE THE ONES THAT MAKE THE SUPERCHARGER THEY SHOULD KNOW.

LIKE I SAID I APPRIATE THE FEEDBACK BUT NO NEED TO GET ALL BUTTHURT. I'VE LISTENED AND TRIED EVERYTHING EVERYONE HAS TOLD ME. THX

This line will never see anything but vacuum. You need to make your gauge connection after the rotors, not before. I'm not familiar with Magnuson, but there has to be a threaded port for a boost connection.

Badbubba · 12-08-2013, 11:43 AM

Did you not have a boost gauge connected prior to the rebuild?

dan0617 · 12-08-2013, 12:46 PM

Magnuson is right in that pulleying down will make more boost. They are right that you need more airflow to make more boost with a big cube very efficient motor. They are wrong if they told you that you have zero boost due to the pulley combo on your setup. And I'm not saying this in a mean way and I'm not butthurt. I've been doing this for many years on many different combos and there is no way that your blower even with stock pulleys won't make at least 4 or 5 psi on your engine. I'm guessing 6 psi is what you will see before pulleying down. Something else is amiss.

PIGSMOKR · 12-09-2013, 06:59 AM

No I never had boost before rebuild. Thx everybody for the feed back. I don't believe the motor flows to much air and that's why it doesn't make boost. I can see it losing a few lbs and I figure it should be 5 or 6 is what I would think. I think it's BS story. That's why I'm on here trying to find different answers as to what it could be. Prob going to have to take it to a different shop.

2SS45th · 12-09-2013, 07:04 AM

There's a boost port on the back of the Maggie by the rear drive IIRC.

PIGSMOKR · 12-09-2013, 09:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2SS45th

There's a boost port on the back of the Maggie by the rear drive IIRC.

Cool thanks.

JANNETTYRACING · 12-09-2013, 09:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PIGSMOKR

No I never had boost before rebuild. Thx everybody for the feed back. I don't believe the motor flows to much air and that's why it doesn't make boost. I can see it losing a few lbs and I figure it should be 5 or 6 is what I would think. I think it's BS story. That's why I'm on here trying to find different answers as to what it could be. Prob going to have to take it to a different shop.

In the early part of this thread I asked Where do you have your Boost Gauge connected, You never answered.

It should be connected near the Rear pulleys in the back of the manifold.

Ted.

PIGSMOKR · 12-10-2013, 07:22 AM

old motorhead · 12-10-2013, 07:28 AM

Do you expect to have boost at idle? Do you expect to have boost just blipping the throttle with no load on the engine? I'm not following this..

12-07-2013, 02:35 AM	#57
Gen5SS Drives: 2010 SS/RS 6 Spd Manual IOM Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: North Las Vegas Posts: 153	I read the thread and have a few questions. Have you checked your cats if you have any? If you do they are probably melted and causing a choke. Also push-rod length, if your push-rods are to long it will leave the valves open and the air will flow by not creating boost. If your bypass is not stuck open and you have no belt slip the things I mentioned might be probable. By the way I am drinking while writing this so I may be way off target. __________________ 2010 2SS/RS, 417 stroker, 4.0 Callies crank and rods, JRE pistons w/hellfire nitrous top rings, Kooks 1 7/8 LT, Kooks 3" Exhaust, CAI Intake and Scoop, Cam SullivanGM W/ Hardened PR, Stock Heads. Dual Springs, Mcleod RXT Clutch, Hurst LL W/ Cruise Momentary, GM 3.91 gears, Nitrous Outlet direct port 200 shot, Dedicated Fuel Cell(C16), LNC2000 and NOS Mini controller, BMR suspension w/Bushings, Pfadt Drop, Pfadt Diff Bushings, 1400hp DSS Axles, DSS driveshaft, Solid Engine Mounts, Razzi Body Kit, Speedhut Gauges,T-REX Phantom Grills (Black) 533RWHP/500RWTQ N/A, 724RWHP/816RWTQ 200 Shot

12-07-2013, 05:37 PM	#62
patternpilot Drives: 2012 2SS/RS Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Tri-Cities WA. Posts: 928 View My Garage	Damn no need to get defensive. The valve works perfect. Ran it on dyno and worked as it should. Even plugged the holes which should make the s/c make boost. Boost Guage is t ed into vac line that goes to brake booster. TECHS FROM MAGNUSON EVEN SAID THE MOTOR FLOWS TO MUCH AIR THAT I NEEDED TO ADD THE DIFFERENT PULLEYS. THEY ARE THE ONES THAT MAKE THE SUPERCHARGER THEY SHOULD KNOW. LIKE I SAID I APPRIATE THE FEEDBACK BUT NO NEED TO GET ALL BUTTHURT. I'VE LISTENED AND TRIED EVERYTHING EVERYONE HAS TOLD ME. THX This line will never see anything but vacuum. You need to make your gauge connection after the rotors, not before. I'm not familiar with Magnuson, but there has to be a threaded port for a boost connection. __________________ There's more to life than gas mileage LS3, Whipple, Custom Comp Cam, springs, pushrods, timing set, CAI intake, Apex cold air scoop, Doug Thorley TRI-Y headers, Billet Custom Products baffled Valve covers, Mighty Mouse Catch can, ADM FPCM, ZL1 fuel pump, MSD boost-a-pump, Hex Vent hood vents, ProSport gauges(fuel pressure, AFR, Boost), Corsa, 100 cell Cats. Jannetty remote tuned, Pfadt trailing arms, all parts user installed. No Dyno yet. Manual trans. 3.45 gears.

12-08-2013, 11:43 AM	#63
Badbubba GrINned & JUICEd Drives: 15STI, 10Expy, 10 2SS/RS M6, 47KB1 Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 1,247	Did you not have a boost gauge connected prior to the rebuild? __________________ GPI SS3 Cam & stuff,N.O. Plate(dedicated fuel tank,progressive,fuel hose upgrade,remote opener,heater,console switches),LNC2000,CTAP,ARH 1 7/8" LTs/gutted cats/X pipe/mufflers,Jet Hot coated LTs,GPI HPT Tune,CAI, Scoop,Rx Catch Can,Gates heater hose relocation, Remote clutch & auto brake res,Metco loop,Momentum Tunnel Brace,TSW Nurb 18",555 & 05,Pfadt trailing arms & toe rods,Autometer WB,Fesler Pillar Pod,LED strips (int),Lloyds floor & trunk mats,LED DRL/front turn & license plate,DRL harness,VLEDs tail lights,Plasticoat Bowties. Ord: Oct 5, 2009 Rec: Nov 19, 2009 13.17@112.6 stock

12-08-2013, 12:46 PM	#64
dan0617 Drives: 2011 Inferno Orange SS Convertible Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Tyrone, PA Posts: 640 View My Garage	Magnuson is right in that pulleying down will make more boost. They are right that you need more airflow to make more boost with a big cube very efficient motor. They are wrong if they told you that you have zero boost due to the pulley combo on your setup. And I'm not saying this in a mean way and I'm not butthurt. I've been doing this for many years on many different combos and there is no way that your blower even with stock pulleys won't make at least 4 or 5 psi on your engine. I'm guessing 6 psi is what you will see before pulleying down. Something else is amiss. __________________ 2011 SS IOM Vert. ECS Vortech 13+ psi, Water/Meth, ID850’s, ZL1 pump with MSD Voltage Booster, 2800 stall, LT headers, Drag radials, Drag alignment, Cradle Bushings. A million other supporting mods. Tuned by Ted.

12-09-2013, 07:04 AM	#66
2SS45th Drives: 11 Seconds or Faster Join Date: May 2012 Location: Arvada, Colorado Posts: 2,797 View My Garage	There's a boost port on the back of the Maggie by the rear drive IIRC. __________________ I Ain't About That Stock Life.

12-07-2013, 06:36 AM	#59
PIGSMOKR 2010 Lingenfelter SS Drives: 2010 lingenfelter ss Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: leland nc Posts: 487	[QUOTE=Gen5SS;7243316]I read the thread and have a few questions. Have you checked your cats if you have any? If you do they are probably melted and causing a choke. Also push-rod length, if your push-rods are to long it will leave the valves open and the air will flow by not creating boost. If your bypass is not stuck open and you have no belt slip the things I mentioned might be probable. By the way I am drinking while writing this so I may Somebody else said the same thing earlier about the push rods. I mention to the guy that built the motor he said he didn't think that would be it. And I don't have cats. Bottoms up man lol thx

12-07-2013, 03:06 PM	#60
norris_83 Drives: Chevrolet Corvette C6 Z06 Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Champaign, Illinois Posts: 49	There is nothing wrong with your motor. It is all to do with the bypass actuator. I've had a few vehicles pass by my shop with the exact same problem. The mechanic moved the bypass valve to a different angle so he could route the vacuum hoses easier. Problems could be related to: 1. Bypass valve faulty 2. Bypass installed at wrong angle 3. Hoses installed incorrectly Hope this helps.

12-09-2013, 06:59 AM	#65
PIGSMOKR 2010 Lingenfelter SS Drives: 2010 lingenfelter ss Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: leland nc Posts: 487	No I never had boost before rebuild. Thx everybody for the feed back. I don't believe the motor flows to much air and that's why it doesn't make boost. I can see it losing a few lbs and I figure it should be 5 or 6 is what I would think. I think it's BS story. That's why I'm on here trying to find different answers as to what it could be. Prob going to have to take it to a different shop.

12-10-2013, 07:28 AM	#70
old motorhead Drives: Maggie blown LS3 vette Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: SE TX Posts: 1,490	Do you expect to have boost at idle? Do you expect to have boost just blipping the throttle with no load on the engine? I'm not following this..