Fe3 to fe4 conversion problem - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

bradford027 · 02-19-2016, 08:12 PM

Im trying to do the fe4 sway bar conversion on my 2010 ss. On the rear I cant seem to get the bolt out closet to the differential on the factory fe3 lower control arm. This thing is kickin my ass! Lol. Is there a trick? Ive used map gas and every bf hammer in my arsenal and it wont budge! Am i missing something?

xc_SS/RS · 02-19-2016, 08:37 PM

Have you tried to unscrew it? Honestly not trying to be a dick with that comment but when I did my conversion I think that one had to be unscrewed from where it sits. Might try holding the control arm up and then pushing or unscrewing it? My main problem was the shock mount and getting the hub to line up correctly.

justjoshin · 02-19-2016, 08:54 PM

Did this recently and don't remember having a problem getting it out. Sorry I can't help you out.

bradford027 · 02-19-2016, 09:45 PM

I tried running it in and out with an impact and i only get a quarter turn each way. The "cam washer" or whatever its called keeps it from turning. I think the bolt is seized to the inside of the bushing. If i could knock it out even a little i would have a fighting chance of running it out with an impact but it wont move at all. 3lb sledge, 5lb sledge, 4 lb deadblow hammer, map gas, pb blaster......nothin!!!!

SIM GhostrdrZ · 02-19-2016, 09:50 PM

The bolt is trash. Just cut it out with a sawzall. Get a new bolt, bushing and be happy with better poly bushings.

bradford027 · 02-19-2016, 09:56 PM

Heres a picture of the "cam washer" that keeps me from turning the bolt.

bradford027 · 02-19-2016, 10:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Redhotls1

The bolt is trash. Just cut it out with a sawzall. Get a new bolt, bushing and be happy with better poly bushings.

Just about did this, im not sure if i can get a new bolt this weekend is all that kept me from it.

CDBiker220 · 02-19-2016, 10:07 PM

I just did lowering springs and had trouble with this bolt on both sides. I was only trying to loosen it to re-time the bushings. I ended up saying forget it as that bushing is very flexible and I was able to loosen everything else. I just assumed for whatever reason it is seized to the inner race of the bushing.

Also heating it will probably not work as you need the inner race to expand from heat. Heating the bolt itself would just make it worse. Sorry I don't have an answer for you but at least you know your not alone.

xc_SS/RS · 02-19-2016, 10:31 PM

If you get it out of the alignment grooves then it should comes out. Not sure why yours is stuck between them but best bet might be to either cut it or try and thread the nut back on and see if you can get the other side. The fe4 control arms still have the mount for the fe3 sway bar so you could swap one side, wait for a new bolt then cut that sucker off when you get the new one. Kinda surprising how something that really only requires three bolts to be removed takes so long.

sting808 · 02-20-2016, 02:56 PM

That is the camber eccentric bolt. It's suppose to spin freely for alignment adjustments. If a good 1/2" impact gun or long breaker bar can't spin it, it is seized in the bushing. I would try brute force with the impact/breaker, then just cut it off if. I know my bolt was hard to remove when the trailing arm was applying toe, but your looks like it's fully disconnected.

If you can't find a GM replacement rear camber eccentric, try JPSS. Their bolt provides more camber range when lowering. If you don't mind used, I can look for my old one in my old parts pile. Good luck.

bradford027 · 02-20-2016, 06:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sting808

That is the camber eccentric bolt. It's suppose to spin freely for alignment adjustments. If a good 1/2" impact gun or long breaker bar can't spin it, it is seized in the bushing. I would try brute force with the impact/breaker, then just cut it off if. I know my bolt was hard to remove when the trailing arm was applying toe, but your looks like it's fully disconnected.

If you can't find a GM replacement rear camber eccentric, try JPSS. Their bolt provides more camber range when lowering. If you don't mind used, I can look for my old one in my old parts pile. Good luck.

Yeah...I spent another hour or so on it this morning with no luck. I'm sure that its frozen in the bushing. I tried the drivers side and it seems the same, although I didn't put a lot of effort into that one lol. I called every gm dealer within driving distance and no one stocks the bolts or washers. I ordered two of each so hopefully by Tuesday ill be back in business. I did get the front BMR sway bar installed with new links. I expected the front to give me issues but it went smooth! I will check on those aftermarket bolts as well. I do have Hotchkis 1" drop springs but when I took it for an alignment after installing them a couple months ago it came right in the shop said. Are the the JPSS bolts only needed sometimes or it more of a standard thing with drop springs?

sting808 · 02-21-2016, 09:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bradford027

Yeah...I spent another hour or so on it this morning with no luck. I'm sure that its frozen in the bushing. I tried the drivers side and it seems the same, although I didn't put a lot of effort into that one lol. I called every gm dealer within driving distance and no one stocks the bolts or washers. I ordered two of each so hopefully by Tuesday ill be back in business. I did get the front BMR sway bar installed with new links. I expected the front to give me issues but it went smooth! I will check on those aftermarket bolts as well. I do have Hotchkis 1" drop springs but when I took it for an alignment after installing them a couple months ago it came right in the shop said. Are the the JPSS bolts only needed sometimes or it more of a standard thing with drop springs?

I had the old Pedders eccentrics(same design as JPSS) from 2010. My car was lowered ~1" and I could adjust rear camber to 0*. Was trying to get the car more balanced on the old FE3 style bars. Since then, I've upgraded to the newer outboard sways and have 27mm/32mm so I've kept the rear to -0.8* to -1.0* for handling. You should be able to get -0.8* on the OE eccentrics.

Lil' Nasty · 02-21-2016, 09:54 AM

Hm That's strange, Have you tried jacking up the spindle? Also, the driver's side bolt gets stuck hitting the gas tank (some people it doesn't). I lowered the cradle about an inch and it came out. Good luck. I hated doing the suspension

Ventmaster · 02-21-2016, 08:00 PM

+1 unweight (jack up) the outside end of the control arm. Of course a little WD40 is always a good idea too!

Have you got it out yet?

02-19-2016, 08:12 PM	#1
bradford027 Drives: 2010 2ss/rs Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Ohio Posts: 13	Fe3 to fe4 conversion problem Im trying to do the fe4 sway bar conversion on my 2010 ss. On the rear I cant seem to get the bolt out closet to the differential on the factory fe3 lower control arm. This thing is kickin my ass! Lol. Is there a trick? Ive used map gas and every bf hammer in my arsenal and it wont budge! Am i missing something? Attached Images

02-19-2016, 08:37 PM	#2
xc_SS/RS Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: somewhere in MD Posts: 4,883	Have you tried to unscrew it? Honestly not trying to be a dick with that comment but when I did my conversion I think that one had to be unscrewed from where it sits. Might try holding the control arm up and then pushing or unscrewing it? My main problem was the shock mount and getting the hub to line up correctly. __________________ 2010 2SS/RS Z/28 intake, NW, FAST 102, speed engineering LT's, some exhaust, ATI -10% pulley, GM flex fuel injectors, DSX flex fuel sensor, MGW shifter, HP Tuners, some suspension work, stickers and a little weight loss. 12.63 @113.53

02-19-2016, 08:54 PM	#3
justjoshin Drives: 2010 SW 1SS L99 Camaro Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Louisiana Posts: 2,085 View My Garage	Did this recently and don't remember having a problem getting it out. Sorry I can't help you out. __________________

02-19-2016, 09:56 PM	#6
bradford027 Drives: 2010 2ss/rs Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Ohio Posts: 13	Heres a picture of the "cam washer" that keeps me from turning the bolt. Attached Images

02-19-2016, 10:31 PM	#9
xc_SS/RS Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: somewhere in MD Posts: 4,883	If you get it out of the alignment grooves then it should comes out. Not sure why yours is stuck between them but best bet might be to either cut it or try and thread the nut back on and see if you can get the other side. The fe4 control arms still have the mount for the fe3 sway bar so you could swap one side, wait for a new bolt then cut that sucker off when you get the new one. Kinda surprising how something that really only requires three bolts to be removed takes so long. __________________ 2010 2SS/RS Z/28 intake, NW, FAST 102, speed engineering LT's, some exhaust, ATI -10% pulley, GM flex fuel injectors, DSX flex fuel sensor, MGW shifter, HP Tuners, some suspension work, stickers and a little weight loss. 12.63 @113.53

02-19-2016, 09:45 PM	#4
bradford027 Drives: 2010 2ss/rs Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Ohio Posts: 13	I tried running it in and out with an impact and i only get a quarter turn each way. The "cam washer" or whatever its called keeps it from turning. I think the bolt is seized to the inside of the bushing. If i could knock it out even a little i would have a fighting chance of running it out with an impact but it wont move at all. 3lb sledge, 5lb sledge, 4 lb deadblow hammer, map gas, pb blaster......nothin!!!!

02-19-2016, 09:50 PM	#5
SIM GhostrdrZ Drives: ‘14 Z/28 ‘14 ZL1 M6 vert Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,283 View My Garage	The bolt is trash. Just cut it out with a sawzall. Get a new bolt, bushing and be happy with better poly bushings.

02-19-2016, 10:07 PM	#8
CDBiker220 Drives: 98 camaro z28 Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: pittsburgh, pa Posts: 189	I just did lowering springs and had trouble with this bolt on both sides. I was only trying to loosen it to re-time the bushings. I ended up saying forget it as that bushing is very flexible and I was able to loosen everything else. I just assumed for whatever reason it is seized to the inner race of the bushing. Also heating it will probably not work as you need the inner race to expand from heat. Heating the bolt itself would just make it worse. Sorry I don't have an answer for you but at least you know your not alone.

02-20-2016, 02:56 PM	#10
sting808 Drives: 2010 SS RS Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Honolulu, Hawaii Posts: 930	That is the camber eccentric bolt. It's suppose to spin freely for alignment adjustments. If a good 1/2" impact gun or long breaker bar can't spin it, it is seized in the bushing. I would try brute force with the impact/breaker, then just cut it off if. I know my bolt was hard to remove when the trailing arm was applying toe, but your looks like it's fully disconnected. If you can't find a GM replacement rear camber eccentric, try JPSS. Their bolt provides more camber range when lowering. If you don't mind used, I can look for my old one in my old parts pile. Good luck.

02-21-2016, 09:54 AM	#13
Lil' Nasty [COTW 4/13/15] Drives: Supercharged LLT Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Florida Posts: 5,957	Hm That's strange, Have you tried jacking up the spindle? Also, the driver's side bolt gets stuck hitting the gas tank (some people it doesn't). I lowered the cradle about an inch and it came out. Good luck. I hated doing the suspension __________________ LiL' Nasty's Build Journal

02-21-2016, 08:00 PM	#14
Ventmaster Drives: 2017 1SS 6spd Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Utah Posts: 2,869	+1 unweight (jack up) the outside end of the control arm. Of course a little WD40 is always a good idea too! Have you got it out yet?