02-19-2016, 08:12 PM | #1 |
Drives: 2010 2ss/rs Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Ohio
Posts: 13
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Fe3 to fe4 conversion problem
Im trying to do the fe4 sway bar conversion on my 2010 ss. On the rear I cant seem to get the bolt out closet to the differential on the factory fe3 lower control arm. This thing is kickin my ass! Lol. Is there a trick? Ive used map gas and every bf hammer in my arsenal and it wont budge! Am i missing something?
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02-19-2016, 08:37 PM | #2 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: somewhere in MD
Posts: 4,883
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Have you tried to unscrew it? Honestly not trying to be a dick with that comment but when I did my conversion I think that one had to be unscrewed from where it sits. Might try holding the control arm up and then pushing or unscrewing it? My main problem was the shock mount and getting the hub to line up correctly.
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2010 2SS/RS
Z/28 intake, NW, FAST 102, speed engineering LT's, some exhaust, ATI -10% pulley, GM flex fuel injectors, DSX flex fuel sensor, MGW shifter, HP Tuners, some suspension work, stickers and a little weight loss. 12.63 @113.53 |
02-19-2016, 08:54 PM | #3 |
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Did this recently and don't remember having a problem getting it out. Sorry I can't help you out.
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02-19-2016, 09:45 PM | #4 |
Drives: 2010 2ss/rs Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Ohio
Posts: 13
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I tried running it in and out with an impact and i only get a quarter turn each way. The "cam washer" or whatever its called keeps it from turning. I think the bolt is seized to the inside of the bushing. If i could knock it out even a little i would have a fighting chance of running it out with an impact but it wont move at all. 3lb sledge, 5lb sledge, 4 lb deadblow hammer, map gas, pb blaster......nothin!!!!
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02-19-2016, 09:50 PM | #5 |
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The bolt is trash. Just cut it out with a sawzall. Get a new bolt, bushing and be happy with better poly bushings.
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02-19-2016, 09:56 PM | #6 |
Drives: 2010 2ss/rs Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Ohio
Posts: 13
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Heres a picture of the "cam washer" that keeps me from turning the bolt.
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02-19-2016, 10:04 PM | #7 |
Drives: 2010 2ss/rs Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Ohio
Posts: 13
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Just about did this, im not sure if i can get a new bolt this weekend is all that kept me from it.
Last edited by bradford027; 02-20-2016 at 06:23 PM. |
02-19-2016, 10:07 PM | #8 |
Drives: 98 camaro z28 Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: pittsburgh, pa
Posts: 189
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I just did lowering springs and had trouble with this bolt on both sides. I was only trying to loosen it to re-time the bushings. I ended up saying forget it as that bushing is very flexible and I was able to loosen everything else. I just assumed for whatever reason it is seized to the inner race of the bushing.
Also heating it will probably not work as you need the inner race to expand from heat. Heating the bolt itself would just make it worse. Sorry I don't have an answer for you but at least you know your not alone. |
02-19-2016, 10:31 PM | #9 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: somewhere in MD
Posts: 4,883
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If you get it out of the alignment grooves then it should comes out. Not sure why yours is stuck between them but best bet might be to either cut it or try and thread the nut back on and see if you can get the other side. The fe4 control arms still have the mount for the fe3 sway bar so you could swap one side, wait for a new bolt then cut that sucker off when you get the new one. Kinda surprising how something that really only requires three bolts to be removed takes so long.
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2010 2SS/RS
Z/28 intake, NW, FAST 102, speed engineering LT's, some exhaust, ATI -10% pulley, GM flex fuel injectors, DSX flex fuel sensor, MGW shifter, HP Tuners, some suspension work, stickers and a little weight loss. 12.63 @113.53 |
02-20-2016, 02:56 PM | #10 |
Drives: 2010 SS RS Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posts: 930
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That is the camber eccentric bolt. It's suppose to spin freely for alignment adjustments. If a good 1/2" impact gun or long breaker bar can't spin it, it is seized in the bushing. I would try brute force with the impact/breaker, then just cut it off if. I know my bolt was hard to remove when the trailing arm was applying toe, but your looks like it's fully disconnected.
If you can't find a GM replacement rear camber eccentric, try JPSS. Their bolt provides more camber range when lowering. If you don't mind used, I can look for my old one in my old parts pile. Good luck. |
02-20-2016, 06:16 PM | #11 | |
Drives: 2010 2ss/rs Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Ohio
Posts: 13
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Quote:
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02-21-2016, 09:02 AM | #12 | |
Drives: 2010 SS RS Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posts: 930
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Quote:
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02-21-2016, 09:54 AM | #13 |
[COTW 4/13/15]
Drives: Supercharged LLT Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Florida
Posts: 5,957
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Hm That's strange, Have you tried jacking up the spindle? Also, the driver's side bolt gets stuck hitting the gas tank (some people it doesn't). I lowered the cradle about an inch and it came out. Good luck. I hated doing the suspension
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02-21-2016, 08:00 PM | #14 |
Drives: 2017 1SS 6spd Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Utah
Posts: 2,869
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+1 unweight (jack up) the outside end of the control arm. Of course a little WD40 is always a good idea too!
Have you got it out yet? |
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