CTS-V 6 Piston Brake kit from $1185.00 (updated)

[Dropspeed]

I took a couple pictures tonight of the silver V calipers on my AGM 1LE

[ssmike]

Looking good! I like the contrast to the black wheels! I think they'll still look killer even after turning gold after a few track days!

[Nick S]

Originally Posted by Firefighter

I ran the Goodridge ZL1/SS lines with mine and there were no issues outback. They came with the Banjo's too.

If it hasn't been mentioned when you get CTS-V calipers the crossover tubes need to be swapped for use on a Camaro.

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Is this true for the front calipers too? I saw where Matt posted that the rears need to have the cross over tubes flipped but I don't think I saw him mention anything about the fronts?

[C-redfly]

Originally Posted by Firefighter

I ran the Goodridge ZL1/SS lines with mine and there were no issues outback. They came with the Banjo's too.

If it hasn't been mentioned when you get CTS-V calipers the crossover tubes need to be swapped for use on a Camaro.

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Is there is DIY on swapping the crossover tubes? If not can you assist those of us that are not sure how to execute the swapping of the tubes.

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[Firefighter]

AFAIK it's just the rears that need to be swapped. There is a leading and a trailing piston. I for get if the smaller piston is leading or trailing.

Anyways you simply remove the bleeder screws and then undo the tubes (I highly recommend using an appropriately sized line wrench) and swap them over to where the bleeder screws were. Then installed the bleeder screws to where the tube was.

Pretty simple really.

If you get your calipers powder coated by MikeThePowderCoater he will take care of this for you.

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[C-redfly]

Okay thanks for the clarification. Sounds simple

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[Dropspeed]

Originally Posted by Nick S

Is this true for the front calipers too? I saw where Matt posted that the rears need to have the cross over tubes flipped but I don't think I saw him mention anything about the fronts?

I will probably make this into a separate post as well for future ref.

Front

• CTS-V/ZL1 6-Piston brake calipers and rotor are 100% bolt on to a Gen5 Camaro with no modifications needed. Because of the lower feed/mount potions on the 6-piston caliper for the brake line you will need a longer bake line than the stock SS has. A ZL1 stock line or SS braided lines for a ZL1 will work for the front and rear. DO NOT tray to make the stock SS line work.

Rear

• Gen5 Camaro SS, SS/1LE and ZL1 rear calipers are all the same. (sans paint color)

• Gen1 CTS-V Calipers are similar, however they do not have the notch near the mounting bolt to clear the Gen5 Camaro rear shield that protects the E-Brake. The shield can be notch or the caliper can be ground for clearance, but I don't recommend either. (order the Gen2)

• Gen2 CTS-V Calipers are a better match for the Gen5 Camaro as they have the notch needed to bolt directly on to the Gen5 Camaro. You MUST keep the left caliper on the left side and the right caliper on the right side. There are two pistons in the caliper, a large and a small (leading and trailing) and the pistons control taper wear.

• Gen2 Fitment: Because the GEN2 CTS-V has forward mounted calipers and the GEN5 Camaro has rearward you need to keep them on the same side of the car so you will need to swap the bleeders and crossover lines top to bottom. The calipers are painted after assembly so the paint will crack were the line wrench contacts the cross over line. I suggest you remove the paint before had on the contact surface as it makes it easy to use the wrench. Once the cross over are swapped top to bottom with the bleeders you are good to go!

Thank you to my contact at the General that answers my text all the time!


-Matt

[Nick S]

Originally Posted by Dropspeed

I will probably make this into a separate post as well for future ref.

Front

• CTS-V/ZL1 6-Piston brake calipers and rotor are 100% bolt on to a Gen5 Camaro with no modifications needed. Because of the lower feed/mount potions on the 6-piston caliper for the brake line you will need a longer bake line than the stock SS has. A ZL1 stock line or SS braided lines for a ZL1 will work for the front and rear. DO NOT tray to make the stock SS line work.

Rear

• Gen5 Camaro SS, SS/1LE and ZL1 rear calipers are all the same. (sans paint color)

• Gen1 CTS-V Calipers are similar, however they do not have the notch near the mounting bolt to clear the Gen5 Camaro rear shield that protects the E-Brake. The shield can be notch or the caliper can be ground for clearance, but I don't recommend either. (order the Gen2)

• Gen2 CTS-V Calipers are a better match for the Gen5 Camaro as they have the notch needed to bolt directly on to the Gen5 Camaro. You MUST keep the left caliper on the left side and the right caliper on the right side. There are two pistons in the caliper, a large and a small (leading and trailing) and the pistons control taper wear.

• Gen2 Fitment: Because the GEN2 CTS-V has forward mounted calipers and the GEN5 Camaro has rearward you need to keep them on the same side of the car so you will need to swap the bleeders and crossover lines top to bottom. The calipers are painted after assembly so the paint will crack were the line wrench contacts the cross over line. I suggest you remove the paint before had on the contact surface as it makes it easy to use the wrench. Once the cross over are swapped top to bottom with the bleeders you are good to go!

Thank you to my contact at the General that answers my text all the time!


-Matt

The info pertaining to the large and small piston (which I highlighted in bolt red text above) is great info Matt. Thanks for sharing the importance of this design attribute! Many people think engineers just do stuff to be difficult but there is always a valid reason why something is done. As a mechanical engineer myself I am often frustrated by people that think the engineers did something without having a good reason to.

[Dropspeed]

Originally Posted by Nick S

The info pertaining to the large and small piston (which I highlighted in bolt red text above) is great info Matt. Thanks for sharing the importance of this design attribute! Many people think engineers just do stuff to be difficult but there is always a valid reason why something is done. As a mechanical engineer myself I am often frustrated by people that think the engineers did something without having a good reason to.

To expand, I was told if they are reversed this will lead to increased pedal travel due to high taper wear.


Found this on the Web that explains it pretty well.

Brake Pad Wear

Getting your car's brake pads to wear evenly is worthwhile. It both increases the longevity of the pad, and improves the "pedal feel:" the sense of firmness and response you get when you use your brakes.
Why pads wear unevenly

Disc brake systems operate by turning the kinetic energy of a car in motion into heat. Brake pads are pressed against iron rotors attached to the car's wheels. There is friction between the pads and the rotors, and this friction causes the car to slow as its momentum is dissipated as heat in the pads and rotors. Over time, this friction causes brake pads to wear. When enough of them has worn away, they need to be replaced.
Why would pads wear unevenly? The areas of a brake pad called upon to do more work, or which run hotter, will wear away faster. Although pressing a pad against a rotor may seem to distribute the load fairly evenly, it does not.
Uneven wear occurs in roughly three different forms:

• longitudinal taper,
• radial taper, and
• inner vs. outer pad depth.

The leading edge of a brake pad is the one that may be thought of as first touching the rotor as it turns. If your calipers are mounted behind the wheel axis, the bottom pad edges will lead. The friction of the pad against the turning rotor causes the pad itself to try to rotate about an imaginary axis behind it, with the effect that the leading edge of the pad presses harder against the rotor, doing more work and getting hotter. This uneven heating leads to longitudinal wear: uneven pad depth from leading to trailing edges.

Radial taper wear can be seen as a difference in pad depth along the radius of the rotor. A brake caliper is mounted to its strut on one edge. The forces created by applying the brake pedal cause yet another twisting moment, this time of the caliper assembly around an axis through its mounting points. There are other factors as well: a square-ish pad against a round rotor means that the radially inner part of the rotor will spend proportionally more time under the pad, and less in cooling air. Heat differences also exist because the inner edge of the rotor interfaces with the hub rather than air, limiting conduction.

Differences in wear between the inner and outer pads arise for two different reasons. The first is a car's tendency to "toe out" under breaking, that is, for the front half of a tire to move outward, the rear half inward. Because of this tendency, we compensate by giving cars a little toe-in in their alignment. This toeing places a little more load on the inner pad in a caliper mounted behind the axle.
The second reason for inner/outer wear differences has to do with floating caliper designs, such as used in the 944 and 944S. If the floating half of the caliper does not move absolutely freely, the fixed half's pad does a little more work. By the way, this is the reason 944's with a single pad wear sensor use it in the inside pad.

What happens when they do

Uneven wear from inner to outer pad will not itself have any effect on braking performance on the street -- unless you run out of inner pad altogether! Tapered wear, the other two kinds, will make it necessary for the pads to move greater distances when the brakes are used, meaning more brake fluid transfer, meaning longer pedal travel. This pedal travel by itself degrades the "feel" of the brakes, and adds to the time it takes to make them effective (response time). When combined with other sources of pedal fade, such as boiled fluid or glazed pads, you can find yourself running out of brakes.
Tapered pads increase pedal travel for two reasons. Pushing a longitudinally or radially tapered brake pad against its rotor, a brake piston will "cock," that is, move off-centre in its bore in the caliper. Cocking creates a greater volume for fluid in the caliper, which causes a spongy pedal.

The other source is "knock off." When the driver releases the brake pedal, the radial and longitudinal twisting moments disappear and the caliper falls back into nominal alignment. However, because the pad is worn at an angle, the rotor will push the pad and so its piston back farther into the caliper. Because of this, the pad will have to travel more to get to the rotor next time the brakes are used, meaning more fluid transfer, meaning more pedal travel. In fact, knock off can be a problem even with flat pads because of all the knocking about the unsprung parts of the suspension take on imperfect road surfaces. It is exacerbated by tapered pads.

[Fraxum]

Originally Posted by Nick S

The info pertaining to the large and small piston (which I highlighted in bolt red text above) is great info Matt. Thanks for sharing the importance of this design attribute! Many people think engineers just do stuff to be difficult but there is always a valid reason why something is done. As a mechanical engineer myself I am often frustrated by people that think the engineers did something without having a good reason to.

Agreed! As a code jockey I completely understand why people think computer programmers do things without having a good reason as they rarely understand what the real reasons are (writing code for users) for doing what they are doing. We are not engineers.

[Fraxum]

Do we need two of these? I only ordered 1.

Front Pin Kit
ACDelco 18K2108X

Things are trickling in (both calipers, L+R, I checked) and Goodrich lines are on order. Always a pleasure ordering from JDP. Got the SS caliper replacement bolts from GM Parts house. Another Camaro5 friendly vendor. I guess i am too Amazon spoiled any more to drive to the Chevy store. When making change is your business model it is hard to compete with that.

I am wondering if 18" TSW Nurburgrings will fit over this new eye candy (with a purpose). I like your car with the silver Matt. Very purposeful with AG.

[Dropspeed]

Originally Posted by Fraxum

Do we need two of these? I only ordered 1.

Front Pin Kit
ACDelco 18K2108X

Things are trickling in (both calipers, L+R, I checked) and Goodrich lines are on order. Always a pleasure ordering from JDP. Got the SS caliper replacement bolts from GM Parts house. Another Camaro5 friendly vendor. I guess i am too Amazon spoiled any more to drive to the Chevy store. When making change is your business model it is hard to compete with that.

I am wondering if 18" TSW Nurburgrings will over this new eye candy (with a purpose). I like your car with the silver Matt. Very purposeful with AG.

Only 1 kit is needed...and thank you

[Fraxum]

Originally Posted by 130R

When you get those bolts can you measure the length of them?

These are the stock SS bolt #. Do you think they will be different than what I have? But I will measure if it helps.

[CHMSC]

Do you have the part numbers for the rear calipers?

Figured I would join the club. Just placed my order for the front calipers.