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Old 02-15-2011, 08:49 AM   #43
Rob@WretchedMS
 
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If it's coming from the front the spring may need to be 'repositioned' also.
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Old 02-15-2011, 09:00 AM   #44
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I have a couple alignment questions that hopefully someone here can help with.

After I lowered my car I had it aligned and asked them to loosen the bushing points, drive the car slowly, and then align. They told me that they do that but don't drive they car, the just shake it a little. I don't remember seeing them do this but I wasn't watching the whole time.

The car does ride a bit rough sometimes. I think part of it is just being a performace car but I'm not sure that some of the bounce isn't coming from the bushings not being done right. It's to the point that I'm thinking about paying to have an alignment done again but obviously I don't want to waste my money.

Can anyone give me a little more specifics on which bolts need to be loosened and if just shaking the car is good enough? I would like to take a copy of whatever is posted to the alignment guy and show them what is suggested so that we will be on the same page. I haven't found a thread out there that gives the specifics on what to do.


My other questions is that I'm thinking about putting the OEM 20x9 and 275/40 on all four corners. Do you think it's necessary to align after doing that?
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Old 02-15-2011, 09:11 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caverman View Post
I have a couple alignment questions that hopefully someone here can help with.

After I lowered my car I had it aligned and asked them to loosen the bushing points, drive the car slowly, and then align. They told me that they do that but don't drive they car, the just shake it a little. I don't remember seeing them do this but I wasn't watching the whole time.

The car does ride a bit rough sometimes. I think part of it is just being a performace car but I'm not sure that some of the bounce isn't coming from the bushings not being done right. It's to the point that I'm thinking about paying to have an alignment done again but obviously I don't want to waste my money.

Can anyone give me a little more specifics on which bolts need to be loosened and if just shaking the car is good enough? I would like to take a copy of whatever is posted to the alignment guy and show them what is suggested so that we will be on the same page. I haven't found a thread out there that gives the specifics on what to do.


My other questions is that I'm thinking about putting the OEM 20x9 and 275/40 on all four corners. Do you think it's necessary to align after doing that?
It is difficult, though not impossible, to bounce a car through the full range of articulation. Going over the bumps in a shop driveway starting with the transition from shop floor to driveway is more thorough.

Which Bolts to Loosen

Front Inner Lower
Front Radius

Rear Inner Lower
Trailing Arm Knuckle
Trailing Arm Front
Toe Link -- both ends
Lower Rear Strut

Changing wheels does not require a new alignment.

Some companies dirrect you to cut bumpstops. If the instructions say cut and the installer doesn't cut them that can create a poor ride quality. Before we re-engineer or re-build the suspension it would make sense to get the bushes re-timed and the car re-aligned.

Once other question. Are you on OE wheels and tires? If not please post the details of your setup.
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Old 02-15-2011, 09:17 AM   #46
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Thanks......this is what I was looking for.

I have the Hotchkis springs and cutting the bumpstops was not one of the requirements. I did not want to do that which is one of the reasons why I did not go with a Mfg that required me to do so.

I am on the OEM wheels and tires. At the moment I'm planning on adding some 20x9 rear OEM wheels/tires to the front. Doing that mostly so that I can rotate my tires to get a little more life out of them. I do the occassion burnout (on an empty back road of course) so I think roating will help me out. Plus that should free up my front 20x8 for some drag radials when I go to the drag strip a few times throughout the year.
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Old 02-15-2011, 09:29 AM   #47
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You're welcome. Let us know how it turns out.
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Old 02-16-2011, 09:16 PM   #48
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My post got skipped above!
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Old 02-16-2011, 09:20 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by jsharp View Post
My post got skipped above!
Sorry man. I posted out of order.
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Old 02-20-2011, 11:35 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
It is difficult, though not impossible, to bounce a car through the full range of articulation. Going over the bumps in a shop driveway starting with the transition from shop floor to driveway is more thorough.

Which Bolts to Loosen

Front Inner Lower
Front Radius

Rear Inner Lower
Trailing Arm Knuckle
Trailing Arm Front
Toe Link -- both ends
Lower Rear Strut

Changing wheels does not require a new alignment.

Some companies dirrect you to cut bumpstops. If the instructions say cut and the installer doesn't cut them that can create a poor ride quality. Before we re-engineer or re-build the suspension it would make sense to get the bushes re-timed and the car re-aligned.

Once other question. Are you on OE wheels and tires? If not please post the details of your setup.
Ok....one more question before I go to re-align the car this week. When you say loosen I'm assuming you mean like barely hand tight. Or, do you really mean loose like a thread or two showing?
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Old 02-21-2011, 09:49 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caverman View Post
Ok....one more question before I go to re-align the car this week. When you say loosen I'm assuming you mean like barely hand tight. Or, do you really mean loose like a thread or two showing?
The nut backed off so a thread or two is showing between the nut and the arm
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Old 02-21-2011, 08:34 PM   #52
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So could you check out my earlier post and offer ideas on a good allignment?I put a pick of my allignment settings on page 2
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Old 02-22-2011, 07:40 AM   #53
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For a good street alignment that corners and luanches well without unusual tire wear here is what I suggest.

Front
Camber -1.2 per side
Toe bring it to ZERO. It will help with turn in, but will not eat your tires

Rear
Camber bring it done to as close to -5 degrees as you can get. This will help with tire bite at luanch and dial out a bit of understeer.
Your 5th Gen had toe eccentrics when it left the factory. Have the tech set you rear thrust angle to ZERO at something like.12 as showing on you sheet. When the sides are matched the thrust angle will be ZERO
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Old 02-22-2011, 10:32 AM   #54
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Ok Pete.. give me your alignment setup for a person who is looking for street use only and the best tire wear. And will I be able to get this alignment without buying extra parts. Should be receiving your coils soon.
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Old 02-23-2011, 09:26 PM   #55
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Ok Pete.. give me your alignment setup for a person who is looking for street use only and the best tire wear. And will I be able to get this alignment without buying extra parts. Should be receiving your coils soon.
Front
Camber -.75 per side
Toe .17

Rear
Camber bring it done to as close to -5 degrees as you can get. This will help with tire bite at launch and dial out a bit of understeer.
Your 5th Gen had toe eccentrics when it left the factory. Have the tech set you rear thrust angle to ZERO at something like.12 as showing on you sheet. When the sides are matched the thrust angle will be ZERO
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Old 02-26-2011, 08:57 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
For a good street alignment that corners and luanches well without unusual tire wear here is what I suggest.

Front
Camber -1.2 per side
Toe bring it to ZERO. It will help with turn in, but will not eat your tires

Rear
Camber bring it done to as close to -5 degrees as you can get. This will help with tire bite at luanch and dial out a bit of understeer.
Your 5th Gen had toe eccentrics when it left the factory. Have the tech set you rear thrust angle to ZERO at something like.12 as showing on you sheet. When the sides are matched the thrust angle will be ZERO
I dont understand the statement in red. Are you saying set the thrust at zero or .12 I didnt know if that was a typo or over my head talk lol
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