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Old 02-19-2013, 02:00 PM   #15
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Thanks...

I'll give some of those tips a try next time. I usually run 36 psi for daily driving but go down to 23 psi for racing. No burn outs either....just a quick spin to get the dirt and rocks knocked off.

I've been trying to play around with different RPMs to leave at. I recently installed a Raptor shift light which helps you get around the RPM you want by showing you a light (when you hit your RPM light comes on. Over RPM light flashes. Under RPM light goes away). I've been shifting around 6k each gear. I might have to change that next time as well.

BTW: post those videos to YouTube and you can embed them.
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Old 02-19-2013, 02:38 PM   #16
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I don't look at the tach when I launch. I do it by feel. When I first started racing, I would take the rpms's up to a certain point and hold it, then try to feather out the clutch. I didn't have much luck with that method. I seemed to be concentrating more on the steady rpm's and I would lose concentration and either bog or spin. 1-2 shift is around 6k, 2-3 and 3-4 are redlined. The tire pressure is the same as I run on the street: 32 lbs. I have found that lowering the pressure too much only leads to spinning. A street tire is made to work best at a certain pressure and temperature. That's also why I only do a very small burnout. I don't wanna overheat the Pirelli's and make them oily.
man awesome driving. I am very impressed. You are really driving that car hard.

Do you short shift 1-2 to help prevent tire spin?
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Old 02-19-2013, 03:01 PM   #17
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man awesome driving. I am very impressed. You are really driving that car hard.

Do you short shift 1-2 to help prevent tire spin?
Thanks.
I do short shift the 1-2 to try to prevent the spin or wheel hop. I also think it helps a little with the 2nd gear grind that I get frequently.

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Originally Posted by caverman View Post
Thanks...

I'll give some of those tips a try next time. I usually run 36 psi for daily driving but go down to 23 psi for racing. No burn outs either....just a quick spin to get the dirt and rocks knocked off.

I've been trying to play around with different RPMs to leave at. I recently installed a Raptor shift light which helps you get around the RPM you want by showing you a light (when you hit your RPM light comes on. Over RPM light flashes. Under RPM light goes away). I've been shifting around 6k each gear. I might have to change that next time as well.

BTW: post those videos to YouTube and you can embed them.
I don't know how to do that either. Maybe the link will suffice.
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Old 02-19-2013, 04:35 PM   #18
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Thanks.
I do short shift the 1-2 to try to prevent the spin or wheel hop. I also think it helps a little with the 2nd gear grind that I get frequently.
I will say its scary when i read my logs and see a couple gears reaching 6800-6900 rpm. I bet if you try staying in it a little bit longer you might be able to knock a .1 or .2 off.
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Old 02-19-2013, 05:58 PM   #19
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I will say its scary when i read my logs and see a couple gears reaching 6800-6900 rpm. I bet if you try staying in it a little bit longer you might be able to knock a .1 or .2 off.
Probably. It's a fine line between getting that little extra rpm in each gear and hitting the rev limiter. I still think it won't be enough to get into the 10's. I don't have the trap speed to get there. I was thinking it would take 127mph to get into the 10's. Even if I went with a DR, the most I could probably shave off the 60' would be another .1

So close....

I think the solution is going to be more power. I honestly don't think that a tire and suspension will cut the .3 I need.
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Old 02-19-2013, 06:38 PM   #20
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Yeah if you short shift the car you might not get as much tire spin, since you might be shifting below peak hp. At what rpm does your combo peak at with the blower, I have no idea, 6500?
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Old 02-19-2013, 06:42 PM   #21
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Yeah if you short shift the car you might not get as much tire spin, since you might be shifting below peak hp. At what rpm does your combo peak at with the blower, I have no idea, 6500?
That's kinda why I short shift the 1-2. The car has never been on a dyno, so I have no idea where the peak is.
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Old 02-19-2013, 08:09 PM   #22
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Probably. It's a fine line between getting that little extra rpm in each gear and hitting the rev limiter. I still think it won't be enough to get into the 10's. I don't have the trap speed to get there. I was thinking it would take 127mph to get into the 10's. Even if I went with a DR, the most I could probably shave off the 60' would be another .1

So close....

I think the solution is going to be more power. I honestly don't think that a tire and suspension will cut the .3 I need.
as they say, .1 off of a 60ft on average double at the top end. So if you can get it down another .1 in your 60ft, and dont short shift 1-2... You probably could pull off a 10.99.

But with your 60ft times, i would say a little more power would get you there. Really try to at least do a gear pull and log your IAT. If it is too high then your computer will pull timing, causing lower power levels. That was one of my weaknesses at the track. I added meth/water injection and without a tune at all, just spraying a little water, i picked up 4mph. My IAT were killing my top end.


now if only i could borrow your 60ft times, and you could have my mph.... we both would be there. I'll be waiting to see that 10 second slip pop up soon.
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Old 02-20-2013, 08:38 AM   #23
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Awesome job!!!!
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Old 02-20-2013, 12:17 PM   #24
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as they say, .1 off of a 60ft on average double at the top end. So if you can get it down another .1 in your 60ft, and dont short shift 1-2... You probably could pull off a 10.99.

But with your 60ft times, i would say a little more power would get you there. Really try to at least do a gear pull and log your IAT. If it is too high then your computer will pull timing, causing lower power levels. That was one of my weaknesses at the track. I added meth/water injection and without a tune at all, just spraying a little water, i picked up 4mph. My IAT were killing my top end.


now if only i could borrow your 60ft times, and you could have my mph.... we both would be there. I'll be waiting to see that 10 second slip pop up soon.
That sounds like a fair trade. I know I have high IAT"s but haven't taken any steps to fix it yet. My tuner added 1* of timing and tweaked the fans to come on a little sooner. I was considering the Super Chiller because it seemed to be a one time purchase, no refilling after the initial setup.

Since my Pirelli's are near the end of their life, I think I'm gonna get a set of DR's to replace them. Also considering the 18' wheel/dr combo. Maybe I could cut another .1 off the 60' time. Might be hard to do though. I'm pretty happy with 60' the way it is and honestly, I would be very impressed/suprised if a DR got me into the 1.5 sixty foot arena. All this may just be pointless discussion as our "winter" is almost over and I can't see myself leaving the car "as is" until next winter.
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Old 02-20-2013, 12:39 PM   #25
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I would recommend a Meth/water injection. Amazing results man.

sent from my galaxy s3. that would explain the errors.
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Old 02-20-2013, 02:20 PM   #26
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I would recommend a Meth/water injection. Amazing results man.

sent from my galaxy s3. that would explain the errors.
Can you run a meth injection with a TVS? I thought the meth was a no no with the Eaton rotors.
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Old 02-20-2013, 05:25 PM   #27
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Can you run a meth injection with a TVS? I thought the meth was a no no with the Eaton rotors.
Ahhh yes, i forgot about that parts.

I have seen guys do it in the past. But i really dont know how bad it is for the rotors myself.

Maybe someone that has a kit can chime in for you.

Maybe if you run like a 70%water and 30% meth it wont harm anything.
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