04-07-2011, 08:40 PM | #1 |
Drives: 2011 LS Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Cleveland Ohio
Posts: 33
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HIDS - Do I need this error code eliminator as well as harness? Thanks for help!
Alright so I am about to pull the trigger and order the h13 hi/lo 6000k's from
http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/DD...ast-35W-or-55W For my LS. My question is, the options they have, for the dual input harness @ $12 and the error eliminator @ $9, do I need to add these to the package or no? I am a noob and appreciate the help! |
04-07-2011, 08:50 PM | #2 |
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I didn't put them in mine, and it works fine for me. Make sure you get the power relay harness. This is hooked up to the battery post on the fuse box, so you have power to fire up the ballasts. Otherwise they won't always come on or come on and shut off. Its annoying as hell when that happens.
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04-07-2011, 08:59 PM | #3 |
H3LL1ON
Drives: 2010 1LT Camaro Synergy Green Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Ontario
Posts: 222
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The error eliminator I think would/should be a relay harness so you can get power directly from the battery rather than the factory harness. This will avoid the hid flickering due to the pulsed drl signal. Hid's want to be given full power or no power, they act up if given low drl pulsed power.
As for the dual input...ummm..... Not sure. Single beam(high beam) hid bulbs are what need as you have a motorized flip shield in your lights that retracts when you flip you highs on. It stays in place blocking some light output in low beam mode. Hope that helps.
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04-07-2011, 09:17 PM | #4 |
Drives: 2011 LS Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Cleveland Ohio
Posts: 33
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Single beam HIDs... Everyone said get DUAL beam hi / low... You lost me there.
Stephens, the power relay harness, is that the "HID Harness dual in / out" or the "error eliminator" ? |
04-07-2011, 11:09 PM | #5 | |
Drives: '69 SS Convertible Join Date: May 2009
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 7,111
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To the OP....I don't know anything about the Mfg but $40 for an HID kit seems mighty cheap. The quality might follow along with it. My first suggestion is that you need to spend the money and do an HID projector retrofit. An HID projector is 10x better than just the HID bulb....I can speak from experience because I've had both. If you must stick wih the HID bulb then you should consider buying them from someone like BfXenon or AAC. Although you'll probably get sticker shock on the price difference. I know that the DRL can be an issue on some HID kits and being as inexpensive as that set is I would be willing to bet it's not setup to handle the DRL like the other two brands I mentioned. If that is the case then there is a good chance you'll be going through some ballasts. I think you should keep researching a little more before you pull the trigger. If you want more info on the retrofit then PM me and I'll send you some links. Also, I have a line on a guy that can make you a plug-n-play harness that will get rid of your DRL. I've got it on mine and it works great.
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04-08-2011, 12:59 AM | #6 | |
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Code:
Full HID Kit Includes: - 2 DDM Digital Slim ballasts - 2 HID Bulbs - Life-Time Warranty *High / Low kits come with a fused relay harness and controller that regulates the high / low operation.* |
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04-08-2011, 06:19 AM | #7 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS L99 SIM Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Oceanside, CA
Posts: 1,036
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I highly recommend you buy Morimoto HID kit from theretrofitsource.com. I had DDM tuning hid kit but started giving me flicker problems. I even put capacitors on the real harness which worked but eventually started to flicker again. One light would not come on and one would. I'd have to keep turning my light switch on and off a couple of times until both lights would come on. The Morimoto HID kit works perfect so far. I spent $120 for 2 ballast and an H13 relay harness shipped. I got it 2 days later which is pretty darn good. I'm still using the DDM tuning hid bulbs which work fine. Call them up and let them know what u need.
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04-08-2011, 06:28 AM | #8 |
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DDM is great if you want to have problems and get pulled over all the time. Their bulbs are good but thats about it. Either way you are breaking the law and blinding other drivers. Basically you will be driving with your high beams on all the time. Ya gotta do a retro or no HID.
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04-08-2011, 08:07 AM | #9 | ||
Drives: '69 SS Convertible Join Date: May 2009
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 7,111
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I 100% agree with both of these.
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04-08-2011, 11:38 AM | #10 |
H3LL1ON
Drives: 2010 1LT Camaro Synergy Green Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Ontario
Posts: 222
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Yes Caverman you're right I had projector style light in my head for some reason
Question tho: stock oem halogen lights..... They have a motorized hi/low flip shield too, do they not?
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04-08-2011, 11:12 PM | #11 |
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04-11-2011, 09:41 AM | #12 |
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Correction - H3LL1ON is correct with the RS vehicles. There is a motorized flap that controls the low from the high beam. the bulb style for the RS package cars is D1S where the non-RS is an H13 (dual filament).
If you want to maintain the high beam and low beam function on the NON-RS cares, you should run the bi-xenon kit. Here is a link so you can see what Im talking about: http://www.bfxenon.com/Camaro_High_L...d-camarohl.htm |
04-11-2011, 09:05 PM | #13 | |
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04-11-2011, 09:14 PM | #14 |
"Camaro Joe"
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id seriously think about the hid kit you get, the price really shows the quality, after recently installing 2 aac kits they are truly worth the money, they were very impressive compared to the cheap kits and there output was second to none. of course im gonna suggest a aac kit for there quality and life time warranty but spend the money and get a good kit, weither it be AAC or bfxenon
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