01-04-2016, 01:45 AM | #1 |
Drives: 2010 Gunmetal Grey Camaro SS Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 3
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Overheating problems
Hey folks, so I'm posting here to maybe get some new direction on where to go for this overheating issue. 2010 1SS, by the way. About a week ago, I noticed that the temp gauge would climb to almost the limit, then slowly start to recede. I had no heat until then, and everything would be fine. I suspected either a bad thermostat or a failing water pump, so I changed both. All was well for about two days, and now I get the overheated engine warning and it does not go away. I recently did a cam swap on her, but I don't see how that could be causing this particular set of problems. I have changed/flushed almost every single thing I could think of, and now I just need some different ideas on where to look.
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01-04-2016, 02:38 AM | #2 |
NZ Camaro. New Zealand
Drives: 1968 camaro. 2010 2ss Camaro Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 284
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Is it just since you did the cams?
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01-04-2016, 03:07 AM | #3 |
Too much is never enough!
Drives: AGP TT SS [COTW] 4/20/15 Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Toledo,OH
Posts: 4,149
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Sounds like an air pocket.
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01-04-2016, 03:15 AM | #4 |
Drives: 2010 Gunmetal Grey Camaro SS Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 3
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Yeah, it started happening roughly two months post cam swap. I just did another burp of the system, topped off the coolant, etc. Hopefully this solves it.
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01-04-2016, 07:08 AM | #5 |
Vet. USMC Machine Gunner
Drives: 2010 2SS Black with red stripes Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ste. Genevieve MO
Posts: 90
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I did a cam swap a couple weeks ago and had the same problem, and I to burp the hell out of it because their was so many air pockets, also run you're heater when while burping it.
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01-04-2016, 07:41 AM | #6 |
Drives: 2010 6.2L SS Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Pittsburgh PA
Posts: 68
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Same with my 2010. No cam swap though. I had to burp the shit out of it and add 2qts of coolant. Shes sitting in the garage for the winter now though. Hopefully shes all good in the spring
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01-04-2016, 08:40 AM | #7 |
Drives: 2010 Gunmetal Grey Camaro SS Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 3
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I just thought all this was strange, since it had been a good bit of time after the cam swap. I appreciate all the input, fellas! Will be posting updates as they happen.
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01-04-2016, 09:12 AM | #8 |
Drives: 2011 1LT Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Crestline, CA
Posts: 3,029
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You said that you changed the thermostat... does the new thermostat have a different temperature rating that might require it to get really hot before it opens?
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01-04-2016, 09:14 AM | #9 |
Svt lol
Drives: 2011 ss inferno orange blown Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Topeka
Posts: 2,312
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Yea I would assume air didn't make its way out and magically found an escape route I wouldn't be to worried about once you top off the radiator and overflow tank.
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01-04-2016, 09:35 AM | #10 |
Writer
Drives: 2010 SS / 1967 Camaro Join Date: May 2009
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 7,216
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I had to burp and top off mine 2 months after my cam swap.
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01-04-2016, 11:16 AM | #11 |
Too much is never enough!
Drives: AGP TT SS [COTW] 4/20/15 Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Toledo,OH
Posts: 4,149
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I am not familiar with how 5th gens get air purged properly, so someone correct me if I'm wrong here. One thing we used to do was to jack the car up at the front end, leaving the back half on the ground. Start it up, bring it to temp, and turn the heat on, topping the fluid off as needed. The air finds its way to the top and out of the system.
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AGP TT kit, 54/57 Forged rotating assembly, Custom grind cam... Dual nozzle meth, ID850's, Livernois dual fuel pumps, ECS BAP, 25% UDP, 3 inch Magnaflow catback with X pipe, Mantic 9000 clutch, DSS 1000hp axles, DSS aluminum driveshaft, ZL1 rear end, solid subframe bushings, HE differential offset bushings, BMR Trailing arm, BMR toe rods, Lingenfelter LNC-2000,SJM Line Lock. 747 whp 714wtq
Build thread http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...55#post8107855 |
01-04-2016, 01:15 PM | #12 |
"Old School"
Drives: 2010 2SS L99 Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Sherrills Ford, NC
Posts: 1,295
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Don't forget to turn your heat on to get some flow through there as well.
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01-04-2016, 02:30 PM | #13 |
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you can stick a shop-vac over the filler neck. The low pressure from the vacuum will suck the air pocket right out, no problem. I saw that on YouTube, and did it when I did my cam swap. Worked like a champ!
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01-06-2016, 09:13 PM | #14 | |
'It's an experiment'
Drives: [COTW 2/09/15] '11 GPI LSA SC Z/LE Join Date: May 2014
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 8,694
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Quote:
-Don
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