"Custom" Hurst chrome shifter lever installation - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Kripp · 03-18-2010, 11:29 PM

I didn't really want a short throw shifter as I like the way the stock shifter works (and I didn't want to spend $300+ for a new shifter), but I do like the chrome Hurst shifter lever with a ball, etc. So, I designed an adapter and I modified my shifter lever. I will try to post the pictures of the process in different stages here. If I can't figure out how to post the pictures here, I will post them on my profile.

If you want to do this yourself, I suggest just cutting off the upper part of the factory shifter below the weld to expose the top of the rubber insulator and then cutting the insulator out. (The factory shifter arm is a two piece unit that has rubber insulation between the two parts. The upper part is actually two pieces welded together. It has the tapered & slotted post (used to hold the leather covered knob in place) welded to a tube. Pull straight up on your knob and it will come off.

I ended up using a drill to cut up the rubber insulator from the top on down. It is messy, but slotting the side like I did won't do you any good unles you do it in two places, split the housing, and pry it apart. But that may not even work very easily as the rubber is most likely bonded to the metal. It is probably injected and cured, etc. You'll see what I am talking about from the pictures. You''l have to scrape the rubber off anyhow and cleaning up a rubber mess is much better than a metal shavings mess. (Less metal cutting is better in my opinion)

I don't feel any vibration issues with the shifter arm adapter that I installed. I used a thin piece of rubber insulation wrapped around the lower shaft, but it probably isn't necessary. I also designed my adapter before cutting the stock shifter up. I wasn't sure what it would look like until I cut it apart, but I assumed the lower shaft was uniform in diameter, and it is. If I had to do it all again, I would probably just design a less complex adapter, and mount it solid with some set screws.

I actually drove the car around running errands with just the little stub (lower part of the factory arm) and nothing else. It wasn't difficult. There was plently of leverage with just that little stub. I have about $70 invested in this.

dickholloway · 04-09-2010, 05:37 PM

very nice. do mine

ddunerider · 04-09-2010, 05:44 PM

WOW!!

Skidpuppy · 04-10-2010, 09:47 PM

Nice. What parts did you use? Where did you find the arm adapter?

Texhawk · 04-11-2010, 08:34 AM

I really like the look of the old style shifter.
How does the HURST shaft attach to the adapter? Does it have to be welded?

Agent Atomic Orange · 04-11-2010, 08:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skidpuppy

Nice. What parts did you use? Where did you find the arm adapter?

I have seem them at Summit Racing.

Kripp · 04-14-2010, 12:57 PM

Yes, I cut off the Hurst arm to the length I wanted and had it welded it to the adapter.

Kripp · 04-14-2010, 01:00 PM

I saw the parts and bought them all (chrome lever, ball, and rubber grommet) from someone on e-bay. I made the adapter that the lever is welded to.

03-18-2010, 11:29 PM	#1
Kripp Drives: 2021 Shadow Gray RS LT1 Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Stockton Illinois Posts: 27	"Custom" Hurst chrome shifter lever installation I didn't really want a short throw shifter as I like the way the stock shifter works (and I didn't want to spend $300+ for a new shifter), but I do like the chrome Hurst shifter lever with a ball, etc. So, I designed an adapter and I modified my shifter lever. I will try to post the pictures of the process in different stages here. If I can't figure out how to post the pictures here, I will post them on my profile. If you want to do this yourself, I suggest just cutting off the upper part of the factory shifter below the weld to expose the top of the rubber insulator and then cutting the insulator out. (The factory shifter arm is a two piece unit that has rubber insulation between the two parts. The upper part is actually two pieces welded together. It has the tapered & slotted post (used to hold the leather covered knob in place) welded to a tube. Pull straight up on your knob and it will come off. I ended up using a drill to cut up the rubber insulator from the top on down. It is messy, but slotting the side like I did won't do you any good unles you do it in two places, split the housing, and pry it apart. But that may not even work very easily as the rubber is most likely bonded to the metal. It is probably injected and cured, etc. You'll see what I am talking about from the pictures. You''l have to scrape the rubber off anyhow and cleaning up a rubber mess is much better than a metal shavings mess. (Less metal cutting is better in my opinion) I don't feel any vibration issues with the shifter arm adapter that I installed. I used a thin piece of rubber insulation wrapped around the lower shaft, but it probably isn't necessary. I also designed my adapter before cutting the stock shifter up. I wasn't sure what it would look like until I cut it apart, but I assumed the lower shaft was uniform in diameter, and it is. If I had to do it all again, I would probably just design a less complex adapter, and mount it solid with some set screws. I actually drove the car around running errands with just the little stub (lower part of the factory arm) and nothing else. It wasn't difficult. There was plently of leverage with just that little stub. I have about $70 invested in this. Attached Images Last edited by Kripp; 03-19-2010 at 12:45 AM.

04-09-2010, 05:44 PM	#3
ddunerider So-Cal Race team!! Drives: Tahoe LTZ,2010 2SS/M6 Camaro Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Phillips Ranch ca. So-Cal Posts: 5,973 View My Garage	WOW!! __________________ WE RACE DEEP!! BBK Intake, Flowmaster AT cat back Barton shifter,Painted stripes,,Heritage grill,LED DRLs, Smokin Tires!!

04-10-2010, 09:47 PM	#4
Skidpuppy ACE5 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS LS3 Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Suwanee, GA Posts: 367	Nice. What parts did you use? Where did you find the arm adapter? __________________ SIM 2SS/RS LS3, Vararam, RX Catch Can, SOLO HF Cats, Flowmaster AT Catback, Skip-Shift Eliminator. 404HP/414TQ

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04-09-2010, 05:37 PM	#2
dickholloway Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Bellingham,WA Posts: 137	very nice. do mine

04-11-2010, 08:34 AM	#5
Texhawk Drives: 69Camaro,87IROC,96 SS,Z06&Stingray Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Longview, Tx Posts: 275	I really like the look of the old style shifter. How does the HURST shaft attach to the adapter? Does it have to be welded?

04-14-2010, 12:57 PM	#7
Kripp Drives: 2021 Shadow Gray RS LT1 Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Stockton Illinois Posts: 27	Yes, I cut off the Hurst arm to the length I wanted and had it welded it to the adapter.

04-14-2010, 01:00 PM	#8
Kripp Drives: 2021 Shadow Gray RS LT1 Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Stockton Illinois Posts: 27	I saw the parts and bought them all (chrome lever, ball, and rubber grommet) from someone on e-bay. I made the adapter that the lever is welded to.