2014 Camaro SS Driveshaft mod - question?

[Moto-Mojo]

In fact, now that I know what the trans splines are, I'm going to upgrade. I think my center bearing vibrates...with only 6K miles.

[Moto-Mojo]

Now you've thrown me with the 'remaining overlap?' That style slip yoke have been around for 40-50 years or more. Our old thumb rule that you still see on the internet, was to set the car on the ground as it would normally sit, push the slip into the trans and bottom it out. Then, pull it out 3/4"-1" and measure from joint centerline to the diff joint centerline.

[pcguy2u]

Originally Posted by Moto-Mojo

Now you've thrown me with the 'remaining overlap?' That style slip yoke have been around for 40-50 years or more. Our old thumb rule that you still see on the internet, was to set the car on the ground as it would normally sit, push the slip into the trans and bottom it out. Then, pull it out 3/4"-1" and measure from joint centerline to the diff joint centerline.

Let me try this again - the above description is precisely what I'm getting at. The problem is that without removing the shoulder (you would need to machine it or replace it with the truck version that was built for the slip yoke) where the splines on the 6L80 tail shaft end, you're stuck with a maximum of 2-3/8". That 2-3/8" is normally used in a stock configuration with a non slip yoke - ie one that is bolted to the end of the tail shaft which, provides a huge amount of transfer surface/strength.

So, if you deduct 3/4"-1" (slip clearance) from 2-3/8" (max spline length in this case) you end up with a "spline overlap" of only 1-1/2"+-. Worse yet, I have no way of testing the actual slip in either direction so the 1-1/2"+- could be something much less desirable if/when ds move rearward.

Not sufficient in my opinion. Hence the question that is part of this thread. Is that sufficient for 450HP. Keep in mind that this is a show car/pro touring and it will never see a race track while I own it - that's probably pretty short sighted taking into account that some future owner might get a huge surprise with the ds breaking off on his first run.

BTW, the 1310 yoke is rated for 800HP, so a 1350 is not required.

[Moto-Mojo]

Originally Posted by pcguy2u

Let me try this again - the above description is precisely what I'm getting at. The problem is that without removing the shoulder (you would need to machine it or replace it with the truck version that was built for the slip yoke) where the splines on the 6L80 tail shaft end, you're stuck with a maximum of 2-3/8". That 2-3/8" is normally used in a stock configuration with a non slip yoke - ie one that is bolted to the end of the tail shaft which, provides a huge amount of transfer surface/strength.

So, if you deduct 3/4"-1" (slip clearance) from 2-3/8" (max spline length in this case) you end up with a "spline overlap" of only 1-1/2"+-. Worse yet, I have no way of testing the actual slip in either direction so the 1-1/2"+- could be something much less desirable if/when ds move rearward.

Not sufficient in my opinion. Hence the question that is part of this thread. Is that sufficient for 450HP. Keep in mind that this is a show car/pro touring and it will never see a race track while I own it - that's probably pretty short sighted taking into account that some future owner might get a huge surprise with the ds breaking off on his first run.

BTW, the 1310 yoke is rated for 800HP, so a 1350 is not required.

I think I understand now. I just talked to an off road customer on Friday about a 1000HP "Baja Trophy Truck" that finished a race with very little spline engagement on a driveshaft. It wasn't a trans slip but a slip none the less. 1-1/2 does sound a bit thin.

Not sure who told you 1310 is rated for 800HP. 1310 series has been around all the years I mentioned. It was originally used in vehicles that had more like 200 horsepower. Then, later, with the advent of the original 'muscle car', 400HP. That part as well as our part is NOT designed for a steady diet of 800HP. You'll just have to trust me on that. Some may say it is, but it's not. Will it live under those conditions? Possibly. Lots of disinformation out there. Good luck.

[Moto-Mojo]

If you're hellbent on 1310, at least use this part: NT2-3-10431HP. I'm not trying to sell you something. Ask Greg for the Sonnax part. We rebox Sonnax billet-like slips. It also just looks cool. It's not that much more $.

[pcguy2u]

Here's the stumbling block on using the 2-piece Camaro ds with the ends reversed. When you turn it around, the collar on the carrier for the bearing is then on the non-u-joint side and there would no longer be any flex on the section to the differential. The stock setup has that non-u-joint side facing the tranny and there is about zero movement there.

So we're going to build a 1350 single piece ds with an in-line slip joint that adapts to the stock fitting on the 6L80. IE, the slip occurs behind the tranny in a fitting independent of the tranny.

That's the story and I'm sticking to it...

[Moto-Mojo]

So, a traditional stub & slip it sounds like. Good choice. 1350 will be a 'build it and forget it' driveline. Other shops in CA have a nice, aluminum 1350 replacement too! Inquire within...

[pcguy2u]

Edited the description of the ds above - this will not be a standard 1-piece ds.

Sorry if not clear.

[Bo White]

I run a 1350 front joint on my stock driveshaft.

[pcguy2u]

Originally Posted by Bo White

I run a 1350 front joint on my stock driveshaft.

Looks like that is set up on a Gen5 Camaro with an independent rear suspension and stationary differential. So what was the reason for the 1350 up front?

And what company made that up for you?

[Bo White]

Yes title of the thread is about modding stock DS I thought.
I had it done locally. I did it to run a th400

[pcguy2u]

Here's what the driveshaft looks like (loosely installed). The aluminum tranny adapter worked perfectly on the 6l80.

[Moto-Mojo]

Did Greg at DLS end up making that?

[pcguy2u]

Yep...