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Old 01-04-2013, 04:35 PM   #127
BullF-16
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Well, Squash kit is in......still having issues with the reduced power mode. Completely random as to when it happens but it happening enough that the car is not really driveable.

Now they are checking every wiring harness and connection in the car.

This was never an issue before this motor install so something happened somewhere during the install

A couple of different tuners are scanning the tune to see if anything is happening with that.

So, the Aeromotive setup was fine and i will keep it as a back up i guess. Aeromotive was willing to take it back but i have integrity enough to not do that. They have been great thru this whole bullshit ordeal.

SNL has also been great and Steve has taken this personally and says he will get to the bottom of it.

Where to go from here? I have a 90K 4000lb hunk of black shit

Happy New Year!
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Old 01-04-2013, 05:08 PM   #128
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Well December has been the month from Hell for you. Hope you get to the bottom of all this, and soon. Othewise Happy New Year as you have a crowd pulling for you. My question is after going with the Squash Kit are you geting reduced power AND the DIC code now as before? Good Luck
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Old 01-04-2013, 05:22 PM   #129
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Originally Posted by BullF-16 View Post

Where to go from here? I have a 90K 4000lb hunk of black shit

Happy New Year!
I believe you already answered your question in a recent post of where to go next. If you are paying T&M instead of a fixed price, you own all the risk.....

From the outside with limited information.....appears you are paying for somebody's "learning curve"

Best of luck!
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Old 01-04-2013, 05:32 PM   #130
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Well December has been the month from Hell for you. Hope you get to the bottom of all this, and soon. Othewise Happy New Year as you have a crowd pulling for you. My question is after going with the Squash Kit are you geting reduced power AND the DIC code now as before? Good Luck
Yes, apparently. SNL tells me totally random on street and very very rare on dyno. I think it only happened one time out of about 20 on the dyno and never happened on the dyno tune.

I also understand there are some background codes that are unreported on the DIC but show up in the laptop? These were dealing with ABS i believe Steve said, his cell connections was crap and couldnt make out alot of what he said.

Its funny because when we installed the GForce rear end the ABS wiring was pinched in the diff housing and i drove home with all kinds of codes and traction control problems. I took it to the stealership here in town and they re routed the ABS wiring away from the exhaust and housing. Steve told me they looked at that and said they did some pretty shoddy work with electrical tape vs solder.....so they will look closer at this wiring as well. This was done a year ago and i never had issues till this motor install/fuel system install and tune.

Man, i appreciate my 83' K10 with ZZ4 crate motor topped with an Edelbrok Qjet more and more. Computers can **** off!
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:32 PM   #131
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Do you have cats? Mine went into reduced engine power under boost on the street because they started to close up. Just a simple thought.

Good luck on the outcome and I am enjoying your progress thus far
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Old 01-05-2013, 03:11 PM   #132
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Do you have cats? Mine went into reduced engine power under boost on the street because they started to close up. Just a simple thought.

Good luck on the outcome and I am enjoying your progress thus far
NO no cats. They are gonna check all the wiring and connections. This is pretty much the only thing remaining.

What are my options after this???????????
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Old 01-05-2013, 03:36 PM   #133
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NO no cats. They are gonna check all the wiring and connections. This is pretty much the only thing remaining.

What are my options after this???????????
ADM but wait till my car is done please.
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Old 01-05-2013, 03:46 PM   #134
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ADM but wait till my car is done please.
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Old 01-05-2013, 04:12 PM   #135
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Bull I've seen this before on a couple of silverado pickup trucks, they would get random reduced power message. One of the trucks the gas pedal sensor had gone bad and would not open the TB correctly causing that message. The other truck was the weather tight electrical connector at the TB was allowing moisture at the connector giving false readings. In short the gas pedal and TB were not in sync with two different scenarios, just something else to look at
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Old 01-05-2013, 04:22 PM   #136
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Bull I've seen this before on a couple of silverado pickup trucks, they would get random reduced power message. One of the trucks the gas pedal sensor had gone bad and would not open the TB correctly causing that message. The other truck was the weather tight electrical connector at the TB was allowing moisture at the connector giving false readings. In short the gas pedal and TB were not in sync with two different scenarios, just something else to look at
I have suspected an issue with this throttle for a while. I even stressed to SNL that it seems like an issue with the drive by wire. It tends to only have issue when really assaulting the gas pedal. I havent driven it since the tune weeks ago when we discovered it.

When rolling into the throttle gradually, it would generally not do it. After talking with Steve at SNL is seems to only do it when pumping in and out on the gas pedal. We have definitely eliminated the fuel system as an issue.

I will forward this info. Probably why no issue on the dyno tune was because the way the throttle is applied. From a steady state 2500rpm in 4th, gradually press the throttle to the floor till the run is over.
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Old 01-05-2013, 04:39 PM   #137
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It's something I've come across twice putting a gm vehicle into reduced power mode. Something to look at and hopefully get you driving it again
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Old 01-05-2013, 04:54 PM   #138
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It's something I've come across twice putting a gm vehicle into reduced power mode. Something to look at and hopefully get you driving it again
Im gonna have them look real close at the drive by wire pedal assembly, the throttle pedal sensor and the wiring up to the TB and look at the TB.

One of the very first things we did on the day of the tune when we discovered this on the streetability tune was to put on a different TB.

Something to go with, thanks

Apparently if the pedal sensor and pedal assembly itself differ in their synchronization with the TB position this will cause reduced power and communications errors.
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Old 01-05-2013, 05:46 PM   #139
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Originally Posted by BullF-16 View Post
Im gonna have them look real close at the drive by wire pedal assembly, the throttle pedal sensor and the wiring up to the TB and look at the TB.

One of the very first things we did on the day of the tune when we discovered this on the streetability tune was to put on a different TB.

Something to go with, thanks

Apparently if the pedal sensor and pedal assembly itself differ in their synchronization with the TB position this will cause reduced power and communications errors.
I've seen some painful cases when factory's TB was replaced and the PCM hated it. Also the wire that goes to the sensor of the TB, had also caused a lot of problem. A single wire's end was broken and was affecting the data coming back to the PCM. Once I changed that whole sensor, wire, everything was nice. I had totally forgotten to tell you this. The end connection to the sensor are very sensetive and easily breaks and you can't even see it. Check it out very carefully.
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Old 01-06-2013, 10:58 AM   #140
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Originally Posted by BullF-16 View Post
Im gonna have them look real close at the drive by wire pedal assembly, the throttle pedal sensor and the wiring up to the TB and look at the TB.

One of the very first things we did on the day of the tune when we discovered this on the streetability tune was to put on a different TB.

Something to go with, thanks

Apparently if the pedal sensor and pedal assembly itself differ in their synchronization with the TB position this will cause reduced power and communications errors.
That could cause reduced power mode, but should also have codes for throttle pedal sensor error.

Has the ECM been replaced? If everything else checks out, maybe start with a new ECM from a dealer, with the dealer programming it stock for that car. Not starting it, but then trailered to the tuner. Then having a tuner build the new calibration from there.

That takes out the variables of something bad in the tune that has been in there up till now. Making sure the battery is 100% before anyone touches the programming, and nothing is touched during programming. No doors opening, no buttons pushed. It's boring to sit in there for minutes while the tuner does it's thing, but open the door at the wrong moment or the battery gets a bit too low and the ECM is a brick.

I'd also pin drag test the ecm connector if it has been apart several times. The connector might look perfect, but pins can get loose in one that has been apart a lot. Take a known good new male pin from a wire repair kit and push it into each female connector, should have a tight drag to it. Replace any female pins that are loose. Many just look in a connector and call it good. Only way to really know is the drag test, and a little dielectric grease on the connection. Dielectric grease does wonders, whenever they are tinkering with any connections... have them drag test it with a good male pin and put in dielectric grease.
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