best puller for balancer on this car

[Skylane765]

Originally Posted by hognutz

I don't kow why this guy gets his panties all wadded up. I don't even think he has done his yet.

It's not my car, you asked the best way for us that have done the install, we'll I did and I said what was the best installer. Now there are many ways to do something, you did not ask the cheapest way, you asked the Best way. So I told you. If you have done so many why ask the question in the first place. I have done 2 LSA dampers. Sure you can use a bolt, but you asked the BEST way.

Try this site, it has some tips for installing it. http://www.coloradospeed.com/hawk-ls...7-p-18291.html

[hognutz]

Originally Posted by Skylane765

It's not my car, you asked the best way for us that have done the install, we'll I did and I said what was the best installer. Now there are many ways to do something, you did not ask the cheapest way, you asked the Best way. So I told you. If you have done so many why ask the question in the first place. I have done 2 LSA dampers. Sure you can use a bolt, but you asked the BEST way.

Try this site, it has some tips for installing it. http://www.coloradospeed.com/hawk-ls...7-p-18291.html

yawn. that a pretty much a piece of threaded rod like I have coming. you keep going on and on. I am going to do this tomorrow it will be done. you are making a bigger deal out this than it is.

I was asking for tips so I have the right parts in hand. now I do.

[Stephen12ZL1]

that video is plain scary...anyone that resorts to "hammertime" is a pure idiot! Threaded rod is certainly an acceptable method.

[hognutz]

Originally Posted by Stephen12ZL1

that video is plain scary...anyone that resorts to "hammertime" is a pure idiot! Threaded rod is certainly an acceptable method.

M16-2.00 x 130mm from nappa worked perfect. cost $8. the treaded rod would work just fine had I had a 24 deep socked. my deep sockets only went to 22mm and I just did not feel like running to sears.

the biggest pain of this whole job IMO is the stupid ac belt but as long as you just seat it in the A/C pulley and then just spin the motor over to get the belt on th crank pulley it not bad.

ohh and trying to yeild the bolt 140 degrees is stupid IMO as well. So much easier to just torque to a value.

if I was to do this again I would have bought the arp bolt you just torque to value instead of yeild easier to do and the bolt can be reused.

if I were to do this again I would I would do the following

1. buy or rent OTC-6677 STYLE PULLER
2. get M16-2.00 X 130MM BOLT (ONLY TOOK ABOUT 40LBS TO SEAT THE HUB ALL THE WAY)
3. ARP CRANK BOLT AS YOU CAN TORQUE TO VALUE $27 vs $10 but it is reusable

[69NMYSS]

Originally Posted by hognutz

I think i am just stupid. I think I could have just bought an LS7 crank bolt for $9 and use that to press it on.

I may just end up returning that intaller pulller setup. Sometime I outsmart myself. I am calling all over town trying to find m16-2.00 threaded rod and should have just ordered 11570163 from the dealer.

Kragen/Oreily auto parts has the pullers for free. They let you borrow them and return in couple days for no charge. Thats what i did.

[Blueclyde]

Guys, very good info in this thread. I'm going to be ordering from Ted very soon and am definitely doing the install myself. Just need to decide which parts, 5% + CAI or 10% alone, and wait for it to warm up a little. I'm kind of leaning toward just the 10% pulley. More I think about it I want about 40 more rwhp and don't really need any more noise.

[CFD]

Originally Posted by hognutz

M16-2.00 x 130mm from nappa worked perfect. cost $8. the treaded rod would work just fine had I had a 24 deep socked. my deep sockets only went to 22mm and I just did not feel like running to sears.

the biggest pain of this whole job IMO is the stupid ac belt but as long as you just seat it in the A/C pulley and then just spin the motor over to get the belt on th crank pulley it not bad.

ohh and trying to yeild the bolt 140 degrees is stupid IMO as well. So much easier to just torque to a value.

if I was to do this again I would have bought the arp bolt you just torque to value instead of yeild easier to do and the bolt can be reused.

if I were to do this again I would I would do the following

1. buy or rent OTC-6677 STYLE PULLER
2. get M16-2.00 X 130MM BOLT (ONLY TOOK ABOUT 40LBS TO SEAT THE HUB ALL THE WAY)
3. ARP CRANK BOLT AS YOU CAN TORQUE TO VALUE $27 vs $10 but it is reusable

Tourque to yield bolts can be a pain in the butt sometimes but may be more practical for some. When installing my balancer I used a gauge along with a tourque wrench just to see what it was, I don't remember exactly but I believe it was well over 300ft/lbs. beyond the range of a 1/2 drive tourqe wrench. I used a tourque wrench that I have for doing Harley crank assemblies.