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Old 05-25-2016, 10:37 AM   #337
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You will want to beware of the issues with a breatherd system. In order to vent, crankcase pressure must be present first and will be greater in the crankcase than can ever vent. You are also opening vapors to the atmosphere...illegal in all 50 States for street use. Then look at effectiveness in stopping the oil vapor and other compounds. Simply place a Elite E2 or E2-X inline behind the MM to see how much oil actually gets past, then do the same in reverse to see almost nothing gets past the E2 or E2-X Catch Can. It's a simple test, but will have very clear, and evident results.



Now,


Here is how you want to route the E2 or E2-X system correctly.


1. Crankcase to the center of the E2 or E2-X system. You MUST do the drill mod to the PCV barb located in the rear of the passenger side valve cover for proper flow if you have the black plastic valve covers. GM changed this for 2014 so if you have the cast aluminum valve covers, you already have the proper sized orifice.


2. One outlet with checkvalve inline flowing AWAY from the can will run to the intake manifold vacuum port. This will provide evacuation suction when not in boost.


3. The second outlet from can to checkvalve flowing AWAY from can to the inlet of the turbo/centrifugal head unit. If a twin turbo, T from both. Make SURE to install a barb as close as possible to the inlet w/out danger of touching the impeller. This will provide the evacuation suction when in boost, so there is NEVER any pressure allowed to build in the crankcase. This aids in ring seal, power, and retains a emissions compliant closed system.


4. Cleanside separator replaces the oil fill cap on drivers side valve cover. Plug the barb at the rear of the valve cover that was the OEM cleanside connection. Turbo scavenge pumps use this for oil return often. Then the hose from the cleanside will run to the very end of your cone type air filter. This provides the filtered incoming fresh air to flush and make-up for the foul oil laden vapors being evacuated out the passenger side of the engine. If you do NOT run a dual outlet, dual evacuation suction source you are not only allowing periods of no evacuation when the damaging compounds from the combustion process are allowed to settle and contaminate the engine oil, as well as allowing crankcase pressure to build to the point of venting increases blow-by by allowing the rings to "flutter" during these periods. You want evacuation at all times, not just when at idle and deceleration like in the pictures.


The Elite E2 or E2-X system (or for big boost the E2-X Ultra) are one of the only proper systems that emulates a belt driven vacuum pump (the best solution) for street use. No comparison to the way most do this.


Ask us more info if you need further clarification.



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Old 06-09-2016, 11:36 PM   #338
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question for anyone using the overkill 80mm TB with the IPF kit, ddi you get an adapter from will (which one) or what did you guys find that worked to fit our pipe onto the newer TB?
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Old 06-10-2016, 07:16 AM   #339
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You can get a 3.5 to 3 reducer from silicone intakes, frozenboost, or ebay. They also make reducing elbows, but most places seem to out of stock right now.
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Old 06-10-2016, 10:38 PM   #340
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Originally Posted by strtsol1109 View Post
question for anyone using the overkill 80mm TB with the IPF kit, ddi you get an adapter from will (which one) or what did you guys find that worked to fit our pipe onto the newer TB?


Has there been a considerable benefit to the 80mm TB?
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Old 06-11-2016, 12:24 PM   #341
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yes - right off the bat slight throttle increase and better sound ... put that with (Jason@ Jacfab) ported intake work and slight tuning revision(Will@ Overkill) you got a great combo!!
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Old 07-05-2016, 06:28 AM   #342
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I'm upgrading my exhaust this week and in sure it's been covered here already but can some or any of you guys that have done this can you tell me what is the best route to go? I just placed an order for BBK 1 3/4 long tube headers and QTP
Cut outs since where I live we have no emissions I'm not running any cats should I spend the extra $ and go 3" or is 2 1/2 good enough? I tried to read other threads and it just seems it's a preference I want the car to sound good when the cut outs are closed but also want it to preform

Thanks for the advice
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Old 07-09-2016, 02:48 PM   #343
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i know its off topic but does any one have a digital copy of the ipf llt installation manual ..thank you
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Old 07-11-2016, 09:02 AM   #344
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Originally Posted by tlavoie87 View Post
i know its off topic but does any one have a digital copy of the ipf llt installation manual ..thank you
Did you get these? If not what's your email?
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Old 07-16-2016, 09:31 PM   #345
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i got them thank you .. another question which ipf tune is the best im running long tubes with ss 3.45s any help would be great
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Old 10-17-2016, 08:16 AM   #346
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Had to revive this thread hoping for an answer that i cant seem to find. But wat are the vacuum readings on the lfx intake manifold? I have a 50mm tial Bov n im trying to figure out which spring i need in it.

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Old 10-17-2016, 09:29 AM   #347
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A Tial BOV you use a 2 PSI spring for a supercharger, you want boost to exit the pipe at any vacuum level since the supercharger will keep pushing it.

For a Turbo, I think the normal is 15-17 inhg.
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Old 10-17-2016, 09:35 AM   #348
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Perfect! Its got the 8lb spring in it which according to the tial chart, is used for 12-15 or 14-17. Gotta double check

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Old 10-17-2016, 09:47 AM   #349
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Tial uses the white spring for both 8 and 9lbs on the 50mm. Which is wat those 2 ratings listed above are for, so i should be set. Thanks man

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Old 10-17-2016, 12:03 PM   #350
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jabeyta21 View Post
Tial uses the white spring for both 8 and 9lbs on the 50mm. Which is wat those 2 ratings listed above are for, so i should be set. Thanks man

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for supercharger your want the 2psi spring.. for a turbo setup it goes by your vacuum , magnum is 100% correct
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