11-28-2011, 08:53 PM | #1 |
Drives: 2010 Black Chevy Camaro SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Houston, Tx
Posts: 106
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Any one do their own Cam install?
I want to order the rest of the parts soon but i was just wondering has anybody actually done the install themselves? What are the steps you had to take? Any special tools that i will need or any complicated thing that wouldnt be worth doing it myself?
A friend of mine works in a shop and has done a few installs to these cars but has mentioned draining the raditator and A/C compressor? Also what did you do about the tuning situation? Di you have it towed to the dyno? Is it even driveable? as much information i can get about it would help. If it gets to be too much to handle i will have his shop do the install because of the convinience, my main thing is that i just want to learn the process and get involved in the install as much as i can |
11-28-2011, 08:56 PM | #2 |
Drives: '69 SS Convertible Join Date: May 2009
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 7,111
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-2010 Camaro 2SS | M6 | VR w/White Stripes | 1 3/4" KOOKS - 3" Magnaflow | LPE 3.91 gears | ADM tuned | Halltech w/ADM Scoop | Spohn/BMR Trailing Arm/Toe Rod | BC Coilovers| Pedders FE4 ZL1 swaybars | Cradle/Diff/Radius Rod bushings | VMax TB | Morimoto Projectors | MGW shifter | Red Calipers
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11-28-2011, 09:19 PM | #3 | |
Most hated in NM....
Drives: Sold the 6POINT2, went to a 50THZ06 Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 2,904
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Quote:
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11-28-2011, 09:33 PM | #4 |
Out Front!
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I just recently did the G6X3 cam swap with the help of RobertWay's swap guide. That'll answer most, if not all if your questions.
Yes you have to drain the radiator but it's EXTREMELY straight forward and easy. I was able to drive my car prior to the tune but still towed it to the shop. It drove fine other than dying at idle all the time. If you plan on swapping the valve springs, I'd invest in the Crane valve spring remover/installer. It removes both the intake and exhaust springs at the same time. Kinda pricey but money well spent. I believe the part number. My experience level before this was headers so it was pretty basic. It wasn't too hard, just some sets require an extreme level of attention to detail. But like I said, RobertWay's guide will get you there.
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B Troop, 3-17CAV - Out Front
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11-28-2011, 09:37 PM | #5 |
Drives: white 2010 ss and 2011 6.2 silvy Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: dfw
Posts: 316
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the worst part for the diy'er would be evacuating the a/c so that the condensor can be removed but i read a diy once where they just lifted it out of the way with the lines still atached. not shure if i like te idea of flexing the lines that far but i guess it works, other than that having torque wrenches, a puller for the crank pulley and a way to remove the crank bolt ie: a good impact and shop air. not shure how others have done it but i know they have. ive done a few but they have all been done in a shop with access to all the right tools.
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11-28-2011, 10:47 PM | #6 |
Account Suspended
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All due respect but if your main concern is draining the radiator and evacuating the A/C system maybe all you should be doing is driving and maybe adding fuel. A cam swap is not for you. Pay a professional.
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11-28-2011, 11:15 PM | #7 |
Fourmz
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS 1968 Firebird 1994 Z28 Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Soldotna,Alaska
Posts: 382
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I've done a complete cam swap with the help of the thread above and Heineken. Not hard to do but not for the timid either.
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Black-in-Black/Blue out 2010 2SS/RS LS-3 -Magnacharger TVS2300,OD cog belt drive, 3.4" pulley, Janetty smooth idle blower cam,ID-850 injectors,ZL1 fuel pump,MSD boost a pump, ADM FPCM Janetty custom tune,Doug Thorley long tube headers, Corsa catback,C.A.I. Intake, Roto-Fab Big Gulp Scoop, Monster LT1/SC Clutch assembly,Eibach pro kit plus, BMR cradle/diff bushings, Barton Shifter,JRE 3.91 Eaton Tru-Trac rear diff,Barton Short Throw SHifter, Boss 339 20" wheels,Painted heritage grille, Sparks Restoration Inverted blue/black SS emblems, Seibon BB carbon fiber hood, ZL1 front bumper conversion.
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11-29-2011, 12:45 AM | #8 |
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS IOM M6 Join Date: May 2011
Location: Abu Dhabi, UAE
Posts: 288
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Depends on how mechanically inclined you are. The linked walkthrough is very good. Have a look at it and see if you feel comfortable with everything. Nothing really difficult, IMO. The first time is always the roughest. The first cam swap I did on my LS1 took somewhere upwards of 8 hours, but I can have one out and in in less than half that now. Especially if I'm not swapping springs.
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Whipple 2.9L S/C, ARH LT's, Flowmaster AMT, HPTuners
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11-29-2011, 03:49 AM | #9 |
Drives: 2015 c7 Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: MI
Posts: 7,462
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my personal thoughts is that, instructions can only go so far. you honestly have to have some mechanical knowledge or have a friend that does help. there is no way i could trust a cam job but my self. so if you are in doubt have a shop do it.
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11-29-2011, 06:47 AM | #10 |
No Pain No Gain
Drives: Yellow 5th Gen 2SS RS Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: GA
Posts: 1,519
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I've done a cam swap on a Vette and a 4th gen. However I will have someone do this as I don't want to bother with AC stuff.
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2010 2SS/RS/L99 - Headers/CAI/SWAYs/CoilOvers/Tune/Steel Braided Brake Lines/Frozen Slotted Rotors
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11-29-2011, 07:31 AM | #11 |
Drives: 2010 M6 2SS Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: South Windsor, CT
Posts: 1,202
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If it's a stick shift car, you can get the crank bolt out without an impact...just put the car in 4th gear (definitely NOT in first), set the parking brake tight, and put a big breaker bar on a socket...it'll come free. A real nice impact gun definitely does make it easier/faster though.
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2010 Camaro SS M6. Heads/Cam/Intake/Headers/Exhaust/Suspension |
11-29-2011, 08:33 AM | #12 |
Tampa Gulf Coast Family
Drives: 1977 Z28, 2SSRS 2010 M6 Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Dunedin FL
Posts: 810
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I did mine with Robertway's diy, its great. I printed out the pdf file and took it with me into the garage. You do NOT have to evac the AC system. This was my first cam swap in an LS motor and I must say it wasn't that bad. It took me a couple days but I took my time and it all went together fine. I also got to fix the factory leaking valve cover gasket.
As far as the tuning part goes I drove mine to the tuner about 30 miles away. Its doable just a pain because it wanted to die at every stop, but I knew that was going to happen. I just kept the windows up, there were a lot of people giving me weird looks.
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11-29-2011, 09:15 AM | #13 | |
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS IOM M6 Join Date: May 2011
Location: Abu Dhabi, UAE
Posts: 288
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Quote:
The toughest part really is usually the crank bolt. Make sure you get a good breaker bar and a nice length of pipe to slip over it for more leverage. If you get a crappy spring compressor, swapping those out can be a headache as well.
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Whipple 2.9L S/C, ARH LT's, Flowmaster AMT, HPTuners
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11-29-2011, 09:46 AM | #14 | ||
Drives: 2SS/RS - Black - GFX Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: B'ham, Alabama
Posts: 2,458
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Quote:
... Cam install took me three days in my garage. In all it cost me ~$1000 parts/special tools/fluids + $400 tune. first day: very careful part removal to get to the cam (labeled baggies, pictures)... next day: cam swap/spring swap/partial button-up... last day: finishing touches and fluids. Well worth it. Quote:
Use the epic DIY thread... print out the PDF... do not skip steps or do them out of order (unless you are not swapping the chain...I didn't). I tried to do 1 step out of order ... I put the spark plugs back in too soon and the engine wouldn't turn for a later step... from then on out I realized how good Robert's DIY actually is.
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Built: 3-30-09 (#1691) Recieved: 6-12-09 Blacked out, Cammed (Lunati Voodoo 233/245, .578/.598 @114°, +4°), ARH LTs, VR OTR CAI, Cutouts, and lots of other fun mods. |
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