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Old 12-10-2012, 08:29 AM   #15
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Trailer miles can wear out shocks. If you trailer a lot, all those miles can become a factor. We always tie it down at the frame to keep the car from bouncing around putting unnecessary wear on the suspension.
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Old 12-10-2012, 12:37 PM   #16
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This may not apply to us road racers but my circle track customers want the car to bounce when trailering to keep the shocks pumped up and build some heat when heading to the track. They have very limited time to hot lap, qualify and then race. So any chance to pump up the shocks and build heat is a bonus for them. With road racing we get a good couple of laps before things really get pushed.

Not sure if the above statement makes sense. I never like seeing the car wiggle when I haul it. That is one of the reasons I haul enclosed. I don't have to see it, I use good quality tie downs, factory tie points and pull a quality built trailer. Close the door and forget about it.
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Old 12-10-2012, 05:01 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Macrackie View Post
This may not apply to us road racers but my circle track customers want the car to bounce when trailering to keep the shocks pumped up and build some heat when heading to the track. They have very limited time to hot lap, qualify and then race. So any chance to pump up the shocks and build heat is a bonus for them. With road racing we get a good couple of laps before things really get pushed.

Not sure if the above statement makes sense. I never like seeing the car wiggle when I haul it. That is one of the reasons I haul enclosed. I don't have to see it, I use good quality tie downs, factory tie points and pull a quality built trailer. Close the door and forget about it.
It made sense fur us, but I guess its all relative what your doing. With us, we always travelled a few hundred miles to all the way across the country to race, so the miles really added up. Plus we alway stayed a few days so there was no heating up the shocks on the way to the track.
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Old 12-10-2012, 05:09 PM   #18
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will the doors open over the wheel wells of that trailer?
just asking because they will not on mine and crawling through the trunk is a biatch!
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Old 12-10-2012, 09:51 PM   #19
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will the doors open over the wheel wells of that trailer?
just asking because they will not on mine and crawling through the trunk is a biatch!
Wow never thought about crawling out the trunk. I have been climbing out the window in the enclosed trailer. I barely fit and I am not that fat yet. Sitting on the door and standing on the seat creeps me out.
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Old 12-12-2012, 04:46 PM   #20
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On a open trailer I did not want to leave the window open it was the only way I knew to get out ! Definitely want to make sure you can get the door open over the wheel well .
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Old 12-13-2012, 11:14 AM   #21
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You can buy straps the go over your tires like a net. It is best to always strap your tires in some way. Strapping using body hooks or the frame will compress the suspension and limit its motion on bumps. this can damage you suspension and wear out shocks and struts premacurly.
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Old 12-13-2012, 11:21 AM   #22
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I tie my car down in the back to the lower control arms and have not had any problems with movement while trailering. The straps I use are the same style as previously posted, and are from Macs. I always cross my straps in the rear. Gives me added peace of mind that the cars going to stay sit. For the front, I also tie it down to the lower control arms, although I know some people that tie it down to the frame.

...make sure the ramps are long enough for your car, even with the dovetail on the trailer
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Old 12-13-2012, 11:36 AM   #23
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http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/product/114/TieDowns

I have always tied any car down by the suspension or axle. If you use the body or frame, the car can compress the suspension during travel and loosen the straps. A friend of mine had a '71 Chevelle come off an open trailer because he tied it down by the frame, and from the car bouncing, the straps let loose and the car rolled off the back of the trailer on the highway. If you tie it by the axle or suspension, nothing will work loose. Wheel Basket Straps will give the same effect as tying id by the suspension. the only give will be the tire pressure.
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Old 12-14-2012, 10:08 PM   #24
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Quote:
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http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/product/114/TieDowns

I have always tied any car down by the suspension or axle. If you use the body or frame, the car can compress the suspension during travel and loosen the straps. A friend of mine had a '71 Chevelle come off an open trailer because he tied it down by the frame, and from the car bouncing, the straps let loose and the car rolled off the back of the trailer on the highway. If you tie it by the axle or suspension, nothing will work loose. Wheel Basket Straps will give the same effect as tying id by the suspension. the only give will be the tire pressure.
Part of my job description is towing...if your friend lost a car because it bouced and the straps came unhooked someone sold him the wrong stuff or he used the correct stuff incorrectly. By using cluster hooks and the correct hook points in the frame you have to rotate the hooks 90 degrees to dissengage the from the car. Thats alot of bouce or really loose straps.

The only way I hit the hwy with our rollback is using frame hooks.

Hauling $300,000 100 point show cars is a differant story where nothing is ever good enough in my book.

I would be happy to walk anybody through correctly tying down any car on or in any trailer. Just let me know.
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Old 12-14-2012, 10:46 PM   #25
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Also buy a trailer long enough as that a minimum of 4 feet of trailer sticks out behind the car. This way when you get rear ended the idiots car wont hit yours on the trailer. Seen this a few times now.
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