Sound System Replacement Advice - Page 2 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

rey · 03-31-2014, 09:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GITUSOM

You've never sat in my car if you think that center speaker does anything.

But obviously it's your car and your choice. Really my only suggestion would be a 5+ channel amp. Your choices for that center speaker are pretty good although you will have to probably buy a pair as i am sure you are aware.

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Like I said before, I know people don't care for the center speaker, but I want it. This is why I started this thread and turned to all you friendly, helpful folks.

I am completely aware I will have an extra speaker laying around. I can purchase a 5 channel amp, no problem. My question, again, is how would I go on about wiring the system? I don't want to lose factory sounds (back up sensor, bluetooth, OnStar)

DefusingDanger · 03-31-2014, 09:19 PM

T-tap or splice from the back of the factory deck for each speaker (channel). Run those wires (3 from the front and you can simply spice into the (2) rears in the...rear.) to a LC7i or other LOC. From the LOC to the amp then from the amp to the speakers. This will keep your chime, OnStar and so on. It will also mean you will have extra wires running front to back. There are wiring kits with groups of wires all neatly packaged into one bundle. The pain in the balls part will be getting to the wires at the back of the deck.

rey · 03-31-2014, 09:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DefusingDanger

T-tap or splice from the back of the factory deck for each speaker (channel). Run those wires (3 from the front and you can simply spice into the (2) rears in the...rear.) to a LC7i or other LOC. From the LOC to the amp then from the amp to the speakers. This will keep your chime, OnStar and so on. It will also mean you will have extra wires running front to back. There are wiring kits with groups of wires all neatly packaged into one bundle. The pain in the balls part will be getting to the wires at the back of the deck.

Thank you for an awesome reply. I understood half of it, but I'm wondering if you can just a tad more specific on what I do after I run the wires from the LOC to the amp. Doing that will give it the signal it needs, but then how do I wire the amp to the new speakers? I thought it would be great to use the factory wires to save me the trouble of going under the dash for the center speaker, and also not having to go through the doors for that signal.

I hope my confusion makes sense to you.

Again, thank you!!

DefusingDanger · 03-31-2014, 09:33 PM

Ok...Follow me here. This is assuming you are keeping the factory speakers all the way around. Forget the T-tap. Cut each channel from the rear of the deck where you were gonna tap in (there may be a harness available so check for that first). The wire running to the deck itself will get spliced into, as long as needed, the wire running to the LOC. From the amp run a wire back to the other side of your cut (runs to the speakers) and splice back in. So it makes a circle-ish. Understand when I mentioned T-taps I assumed replacing the speakers.

Does this make sense?

This is not optimal as you will likely be using a different gauge wire than the factory.

rey · 03-31-2014, 09:43 PM

I am installing after-market door, rear and center speakers along with an after market amp. I meant to say that I wanted to keep the factory wiring to not have to remove the dash and get to the center speaker. Is the process the same?

DefusingDanger · 03-31-2014, 09:52 PM

For the most part yes. The challenge you may run into with new speakers is the plug that connects the factory speakers to the head unit. You will need an adapter to change the plug to speaker wires. With the adapter makes the process the same. Or you can just cut off the plug itself.

I really think you will still have to pull apart the dash some. Certainly to get to the back of the head unit.

rey · 03-31-2014, 09:57 PM

Okay, that makes total sense. Using your method, would I require a 4 or 5 channel amp?

Adrian97c · 03-31-2014, 09:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VeeGeeTea

Since you live in the US, you can visit SonicElectronix.com for audio parts on your car.

Before you do, get the FARK harness from ********. You'll also need a 4 channel amplifier. If you already have the Boston Acoustic package in your vehicle, then you wouldn't need to upgrade the speakers yet. The only reason your audio sound weak is because the GM Amp is only 240W, it's barely enough to power your premium audio set.

Afterwards, if that is still not enough, get yourself a subwoofer set (box, wiring kit, sub speakers). Also, you'll need a Class D mono amp to drive your subwoofer.

If that is still dissatisfying for you, then you'll need to change out all the speakers in your vehicle (this is the most work you'll have to do compare to the earlier options). You'll need to get speakers brace/adapters, which can be provided by either ******** or Sonic Electronix.

Nonetheless, change out your default amp with the FARK harness first and go from there. This way you don't need to blow a big chunk of money for something that you may not want in the end.

Best advice.. ^

I'll be first adding ********s 12" amp/sub/enclosure kit for trunk.. Then if I'm not happy, I'll replace the BA amp with a better one to run the inside speakers.. One things for sure, no point in replacing any inside speakers.

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DefusingDanger · 03-31-2014, 10:05 PM

I would use 5. Unless you don't want to amp the center. If you are going to the trouble of replacing it might as well amp it. Like was mentioned above, most aftermarket speakers will need more power than what the stock head unit, or amp for that matter, can provide.

rey · 03-31-2014, 10:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Adrian97c

Best advice.. ^

I'll be first adding ********s 12" amp/sub/enclosure kit for trunk.. Then if I'm not happy, I'll replace the BA amp with a better one to run the inside speakers.. One things for sure, no point in replacing any inside speakers.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do your thing, man. Good luck.

rey · 03-31-2014, 10:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DefusingDanger

I would use 5. Unless you don't want to amp the center. If you are going to the trouble of replacing it might as well amp it. Like was mentioned above, most aftermarket speakers will need more power than what the stock head unit, or amp for that matter, can provide.

You, sir, have been extremely helpful. Thank you for your advice and words of wisdom. I'm going to do a little digging around to see how difficult it is to remove the center unit and which wires are which. If I find it too complicated, I'll find the right people to install it for me.

Again, thank you for all your advice.

VeeGeeTea · 03-31-2014, 11:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rey

I appreciate you taking the time to give me your advice. With that said, I think you may have misunderstood my whole problem. I know I can purchase the FARK and improve the system drastically by installing a new amplifier, but I want the center speaker to work. I realize many people disagree with having it installed, but I want it.

Any ideas on how I get it done?

You'll have to take apart your whole dash just to reach the center speaker. It's too much work to get it replaced. If you really want to do so, I recommend you purchasing a Camaro service manual for your model and year.

rey · 04-01-2014, 01:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VeeGeeTea

You'll have to take apart your whole dash just to reach the center speaker. It's too much work to get it replaced. If you really want to do so, I recommend you purchasing a Camaro service manual for your model and year.

Do you know that for a fact or are you just assuming?

VeeGeeTea · 04-01-2014, 07:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rey

Do you know that for a fact or are you just assuming?

The manual will so you diagram much like the below:

03-31-2014, 09:19 PM	#16
DefusingDanger Drives: 2013 AGM 1SS/RS Join Date: May 2013 Location: USA Posts: 99	T-tap or splice from the back of the factory deck for each speaker (channel). Run those wires (3 from the front and you can simply spice into the (2) rears in the...rear.) to a LC7i or other LOC. From the LOC to the amp then from the amp to the speakers. This will keep your chime, OnStar and so on. It will also mean you will have extra wires running front to back. There are wiring kits with groups of wires all neatly packaged into one bundle. The pain in the balls part will be getting to the wires at the back of the deck. __________________ EOD is "A science of vague assumptions, based on debatable figures taken from inconclusive experiments, performed with instruments of problematical accuracy, by persons with doubtful reliability and questionable mentality"

03-31-2014, 09:33 PM	#18
DefusingDanger Drives: 2013 AGM 1SS/RS Join Date: May 2013 Location: USA Posts: 99	Ok...Follow me here. This is assuming you are keeping the factory speakers all the way around. Forget the T-tap. Cut each channel from the rear of the deck where you were gonna tap in (there may be a harness available so check for that first). The wire running to the deck itself will get spliced into, as long as needed, the wire running to the LOC. From the amp run a wire back to the other side of your cut (runs to the speakers) and splice back in. So it makes a circle-ish. Understand when I mentioned T-taps I assumed replacing the speakers. Does this make sense? This is not optimal as you will likely be using a different gauge wire than the factory. __________________ EOD is "A science of vague assumptions, based on debatable figures taken from inconclusive experiments, performed with instruments of problematical accuracy, by persons with doubtful reliability and questionable mentality"

03-31-2014, 09:52 PM	#20
DefusingDanger Drives: 2013 AGM 1SS/RS Join Date: May 2013 Location: USA Posts: 99	For the most part yes. The challenge you may run into with new speakers is the plug that connects the factory speakers to the head unit. You will need an adapter to change the plug to speaker wires. With the adapter makes the process the same. Or you can just cut off the plug itself. I really think you will still have to pull apart the dash some. Certainly to get to the back of the head unit. __________________ EOD is "A science of vague assumptions, based on debatable figures taken from inconclusive experiments, performed with instruments of problematical accuracy, by persons with doubtful reliability and questionable mentality"

03-31-2014, 10:05 PM	#23
DefusingDanger Drives: 2013 AGM 1SS/RS Join Date: May 2013 Location: USA Posts: 99	I would use 5. Unless you don't want to amp the center. If you are going to the trouble of replacing it might as well amp it. Like was mentioned above, most aftermarket speakers will need more power than what the stock head unit, or amp for that matter, can provide. __________________ EOD is "A science of vague assumptions, based on debatable figures taken from inconclusive experiments, performed with instruments of problematical accuracy, by persons with doubtful reliability and questionable mentality"

03-31-2014, 09:43 PM	#19
rey Drives: 2014 Camaro RS Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Austin, Texas Posts: 89	I am installing after-market door, rear and center speakers along with an after market amp. I meant to say that I wanted to keep the factory wiring to not have to remove the dash and get to the center speaker. Is the process the same?

03-31-2014, 09:57 PM	#21
rey Drives: 2014 Camaro RS Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Austin, Texas Posts: 89	Okay, that makes total sense. Using your method, would I require a 4 or 5 channel amp?