BMR rear suspension upgrades

[11syn3rgy]

Originally Posted by Pro Stock John

I think synergy you have already been in the 1.5s without a converter?

While I did do LSR control arms and toe rods, it was for an article. Car is noticeably stiffer over bump and in the corners. But I never had wheel hop to begin with.

At some point the stock stuff is sloppy and the bushings are too soft to keep stuff planted. Not sure when that point is.

Thanks man. I have had a ton of 1.62 60' times, but I've never been in the 1.5's (YET!). I don't mind if it firms up the car a "little" during daily driving, but I hope it's not noticeably harder. At the track is one thing, but I still want it to drive nice (and quiet) on the street. My tuner has also said that a "proper" rear wheel alignment can do wonders for drag racing.

[11syn3rgy]

I have been advised to get BMR rear trailing arms - spherical (and outer bushings), BMR adjustable toe rods with rod ends and BMR upper control arm mounts.

Thoughts.

[Pro Stock John]

I would say my ride quality is much stiffer now.

[11syn3rgy]

Originally Posted by Pro Stock John

I would say my ride quality is much stiffer now.

That's what makes me nervous. Did you go with all polyurethane bushings or spherical. Sounds like spherical is quite a bit more harsh? Just trying to decide if this (BMR suspension) is a "needed" upgrade? Right now I have a perfectly quiet and comfortable car on the street and she performs quite well at the track. Not sure if I'm willing to lose any street manners for (very little) track improvement?

[BMR Sales]

Originally Posted by 11syn3rgy

I have been advised to get BMR rear trailing arms - spherical (and outer bushings), BMR adjustable toe rods with rod ends and BMR upper control arm mounts.

Thoughts.

If you are wanting a nice "quiet" ride, as you mentioned above, skip the spherical bearings and rod ends. Instead, get the components with polyurethane bushings. TCA026 Trailing Arms, and TR003 Toe Rods. I'd still recommend the BK039 Rear Upper Control Arm Bushings. These will still improve your track performance, but they will have less NVH!!!

[11syn3rgy]

Originally Posted by BMR Sales

If you are wanting a nice "quiet" ride, as you mentioned above, skip the spherical bearings and rod ends. Instead, get the components with polyurethane bushings. TCA026 Trailing Arms, and TR003 Toe Rods. I'd still recommend the BK039 Rear Upper Control Arm Bushings. These will still improve your track performance, but they will have less NVH!!!

I literally just sent you an e-mail, Keith. Thanks man!

[Camarojt]

BMR upgrades are a good insurance for your driveline just in case you are getting some wheelhop. I agree with others in the suggestion you might need a little more converter. You should be able to lower that 60 considerably with your HP level.
The other issue is you could be slightly spinning your tires and not realize it causing your 60ft to be on the low side. If that is the case, That could be anything from tires, to track prep, to burnout technique...etc.
if it were me I'd do both BMR suspension AND a 2800 converter!

[11syn3rgy]

Originally Posted by Camarojt

BMR upgrades are a good insurance for your driveline just in case you are getting some wheelhop. I agree with others in the suggestion you might need a little more converter. You should be able to lower that 60 considerably with your HP level.
The other issue is you could be slightly spinning your tires and not realize it causing your 60ft to be on the low side. If that is the case, That could be anything from tires, to track prep, to burnout technique...etc.
if it were me I'd do both BMR suspension AND a 2800 converter!

Yeah, that's probably exactly what I'll end up doing. Just thought I'd start by strengthening the rear suspension first. Our track is known for its poor "prep", if you can call it that. I'm running a MT 305/45R18 ET Street II on Z06 rims. Running them at 18 psi and getting a healthy burnout (white smoke) when it's cold out. I leave the line at 800 rpm and mash the pedal. That seems to be the best combo for my car at this track. Anything more and the track won't hold it. Which is yet another reason why I'm wondering if a 2800 stall will help or if I'm just gonna spin. The last thing I want to do is spend all of this money and watch my 60's get worse.

[Pro Stock John]

Poly: http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...asses-part-2/#

Spherical rod end stuff can be clanky, I've had that stuff in past cars.

[JDP Sales]

Just because you are not getting wheel hop, does not mean bushings are not deflecting causing toe-in under load. As stated, go for Trailing arms with outer bushings, Toe links, Subframe bushings and upper control arm bushings. After that, a good alignment with 0 toe and as close to 0 camber as possible will get you in the 1.5's.

Best of luck and feel free to call, PM or email me anytime with questions.

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007

[hammdo]

I have the BMR spherical ends for both trailing arms and toe rods in mine. I notice a bit more noise and stiffer ride but I personally don't mind that. The car really feels like it's on rails and that is what I wanted. Wife is good with the ride and believe me, she would let me know ;o). Talk to Tyler - he'll get you what you need.

-Don

[11syn3rgy]

Originally Posted by Pro Stock John

Poly: http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...asses-part-2/#

Spherical rod end stuff can be clanky, I've had that stuff in past cars.

Good article. Thanks!

[11syn3rgy]

Perfect. Thanks guys!