04-08-2014, 08:09 PM | #127 |
2013 Camaro SS1LECTSVZ28
Drives: 2013 AGM 1SS/1LE Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Suburbs of Detroit, MI
Posts: 2,440
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I took a couple pictures tonight of the silver V calipers on my AGM 1LE
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04-08-2014, 08:25 PM | #128 |
BL1ZZRD
Drives: '16 Camaro 2SS, '20 Equinox Redline Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 7,840
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Looking good! I like the contrast to the black wheels! I think they'll still look killer even after turning gold after a few track days!
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04-08-2014, 08:29 PM | #129 | |
Drives: 2013 Camaro 1LE Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Verona, WI
Posts: 1,924
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Quote:
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04-08-2014, 08:35 PM | #130 | |
Drives: 2013 VR vert ZL1 Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,495
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Is there is DIY on swapping the crossover tubes? If not can you assist those of us that are not sure how to execute the swapping of the tubes. Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk |
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04-08-2014, 08:49 PM | #131 |
Drives: Black '13 2SS/RS/1LE w/NPP/NAV Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Tampa by way of Miami...
Posts: 4,934
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AFAIK it's just the rears that need to be swapped. There is a leading and a trailing piston. I for get if the smaller piston is leading or trailing.
Anyways you simply remove the bleeder screws and then undo the tubes (I highly recommend using an appropriately sized line wrench) and swap them over to where the bleeder screws were. Then installed the bleeder screws to where the tube was. Pretty simple really. If you get your calipers powder coated by MikeThePowderCoater he will take care of this for you. Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk
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My Build Thread... http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=285054
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04-09-2014, 01:23 AM | #132 |
Drives: 2013 VR vert ZL1 Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,495
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Okay thanks for the clarification. Sounds simple
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04-09-2014, 07:52 AM | #133 | |
2013 Camaro SS1LECTSVZ28
Drives: 2013 AGM 1SS/1LE Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Suburbs of Detroit, MI
Posts: 2,440
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Quote:
Front
-Matt
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04-09-2014, 09:51 AM | #134 | |
Drives: 2013 Camaro 1LE Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Verona, WI
Posts: 1,924
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Quote:
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04-09-2014, 10:04 AM | #135 | |
2013 Camaro SS1LECTSVZ28
Drives: 2013 AGM 1SS/1LE Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Suburbs of Detroit, MI
Posts: 2,440
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Quote:
Found this on the Web that explains it pretty well. Brake Pad Wear Getting your car's brake pads to wear evenly is worthwhile. It both increases the longevity of the pad, and improves the "pedal feel:" the sense of firmness and response you get when you use your brakes. Why pads wear unevenly Disc brake systems operate by turning the kinetic energy of a car in motion into heat. Brake pads are pressed against iron rotors attached to the car's wheels. There is friction between the pads and the rotors, and this friction causes the car to slow as its momentum is dissipated as heat in the pads and rotors. Over time, this friction causes brake pads to wear. When enough of them has worn away, they need to be replaced. Why would pads wear unevenly? The areas of a brake pad called upon to do more work, or which run hotter, will wear away faster. Although pressing a pad against a rotor may seem to distribute the load fairly evenly, it does not. Uneven wear occurs in roughly three different forms:
Radial taper wear can be seen as a difference in pad depth along the radius of the rotor. A brake caliper is mounted to its strut on one edge. The forces created by applying the brake pedal cause yet another twisting moment, this time of the caliper assembly around an axis through its mounting points. There are other factors as well: a square-ish pad against a round rotor means that the radially inner part of the rotor will spend proportionally more time under the pad, and less in cooling air. Heat differences also exist because the inner edge of the rotor interfaces with the hub rather than air, limiting conduction. Differences in wear between the inner and outer pads arise for two different reasons. The first is a car's tendency to "toe out" under breaking, that is, for the front half of a tire to move outward, the rear half inward. Because of this tendency, we compensate by giving cars a little toe-in in their alignment. This toeing places a little more load on the inner pad in a caliper mounted behind the axle. The second reason for inner/outer wear differences has to do with floating caliper designs, such as used in the 944 and 944S. If the floating half of the caliper does not move absolutely freely, the fixed half's pad does a little more work. By the way, this is the reason 944's with a single pad wear sensor use it in the inside pad. What happens when they do Uneven wear from inner to outer pad will not itself have any effect on braking performance on the street -- unless you run out of inner pad altogether! Tapered wear, the other two kinds, will make it necessary for the pads to move greater distances when the brakes are used, meaning more brake fluid transfer, meaning longer pedal travel. This pedal travel by itself degrades the "feel" of the brakes, and adds to the time it takes to make them effective (response time). When combined with other sources of pedal fade, such as boiled fluid or glazed pads, you can find yourself running out of brakes. Tapered pads increase pedal travel for two reasons. Pushing a longitudinally or radially tapered brake pad against its rotor, a brake piston will "cock," that is, move off-centre in its bore in the caliper. Cocking creates a greater volume for fluid in the caliper, which causes a spongy pedal. The other source is "knock off." When the driver releases the brake pedal, the radial and longitudinal twisting moments disappear and the caliper falls back into nominal alignment. However, because the pad is worn at an angle, the rotor will push the pad and so its piston back farther into the caliper. Because of this, the pad will have to travel more to get to the rotor next time the brakes are used, meaning more fluid transfer, meaning more pedal travel. In fact, knock off can be a problem even with flat pads because of all the knocking about the unsprung parts of the suspension take on imperfect road surfaces. It is exacerbated by tapered pads.
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04-09-2014, 11:22 AM | #136 | |
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"Democracy Dies in Darkness" |
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04-09-2014, 11:26 AM | #137 |
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Do we need two of these? I only ordered 1.
Front Pin Kit ACDelco 18K2108X Things are trickling in (both calipers, L+R, I checked) and Goodrich lines are on order. Always a pleasure ordering from JDP. Got the SS caliper replacement bolts from GM Parts house. Another Camaro5 friendly vendor. I guess i am too Amazon spoiled any more to drive to the Chevy store. When making change is your business model it is hard to compete with that. I am wondering if 18" TSW Nurburgrings will fit over this new eye candy (with a purpose). I like your car with the silver Matt. Very purposeful with AG.
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"Democracy Dies in Darkness" Last edited by Fraxum; 04-09-2014 at 07:16 PM. |
04-09-2014, 12:14 PM | #138 | |
2013 Camaro SS1LECTSVZ28
Drives: 2013 AGM 1SS/1LE Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Suburbs of Detroit, MI
Posts: 2,440
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Quote:
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04-09-2014, 07:17 PM | #139 |
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These are the stock SS bolt #. Do you think they will be different than what I have? But I will measure if it helps.
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"Democracy Dies in Darkness" |
04-09-2014, 10:51 PM | #140 |
ROAD COURSE JUNKIE
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Do you have the part numbers for the rear calipers?
Figured I would join the club. Just placed my order for the front calipers.
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