New rotors and factory pads - brake pedal hit floor / long stopping distance

[CrystalRedTintcoat]

Originally Posted by Norm Peterson

Apparently the Carbotech pad compounds are all compatible with one another, but I have no knowledge about how that is accomplished.

I don't personally have any Carbotech street pad experience because I went straight from a Hawk HP+/HPS combination to XP8's at both ends, XP8 representing the beginning of their XP track pad series.

FWIW, XP8's dust slightly less than HP+ but quite a bit more than HPS. As for noise, that seems to be a sometimes nothing, sometimes quite a lot kind of thing, which I guess isn't bad at all for track pads. My wife hears noise more often than I do because her high-frequency hearing is better than mine.


Norm

Lol. Of course she hears it.

The issue I had with the HP+s is that they made noise without braking.

[CrystalRedTintcoat]

Problem solved. I bled all four brake bleeder valves on the front calipers. NO AIR. I think the fact I'm using old stock pads (the ones I replaced for track pads) and new rotors and haven't burnished them yet they are soft and compared to the Hawk HP+s they are super soft.

[My 5th]

I just removed my Hawk ceramic pads to spray on Permatex disc brake quiet. I retracted the pistons enough to get the pads back in. I didn't open master cylinder or bleed anything, and I haven't had any problems. The pedal dropped on first application, but a couple of pumps brought it right back up. Was I just lucky?

[CrystalRedTintcoat]

Originally Posted by My 5th

I just removed my Hawk ceramic pads to spray on Permatex disc brake quiet. I retracted the pistons enough to get the pads back in. I didn't open master cylinder or bleed anything, and I haven't had any problems. The pedal dropped on first application, but a couple of pumps brought it right back up. Was I just lucky?

I think you're meant to leave the master cylinder lid open when you retract the pistons if for no other reason than to make sure you don't "overfill" the reservoir.

[JDP Sales]

Originally Posted by My 5th

I just removed my Hawk ceramic pads to spray on Permatex disc brake quiet. I retracted the pistons enough to get the pads back in. I didn't open master cylinder or bleed anything, and I haven't had any problems. The pedal dropped on first application, but a couple of pumps brought it right back up. Was I just lucky?

That's what 90% of people will do when doing a pad change, but the proper way is to open the bleeder when compressing the calipers, then do a short bleed once completed. This ensures that you have removed all of the dirty/contaminated and possibly boiled fluid in the calipers. As short bleed of the calipers is not a bad idea to do between track days or every other track day.

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007