HELP: Front Detroit Speed Sway Bar End Link (fitment issue) - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

NotYetLegend · 01-25-2015, 02:09 PM

Hey guys, me again, with another end link problem........

So I tried to install the front DSE endlinks today and nothing worked right. I have a BMR front sway bar and the holes in the sway bar are too small to engage the stud coming out of the endlink (the threads fit through but not the non-threaded portion of the stud, see picture). I half expected this because the DSE rear links and BMR bar were not compatible either.

What does surprise me is I had the same problem on the other side of the endlink where it engages the hole in the strut. So maybe the endlinks are only intended to work with DSE sway bars AND their coilovers??? If that's the case, well, I can't afford that.

Here is a picture highlighting the part of the stud that will not engage the BMR sway bar hole and does not fully engage the hole in the strut:

At this point I'll just have to call DSE tomorrow and ask them what to do. But in the meantime if anyone has encountered/solved this issue in the past please chime in. I believe I will end up ordering a new sway bar set from DSE, selling my BMR's in the classifieds (which are in perfect condition and I have no real desire to get rid of) and hope that DSE can give me a resolution step to the strut hole issue.

Thanks guys.

NotYetLegend · 01-26-2015, 09:17 AM

Well crap, planned on returning these front links and instead order BMR's links because I know they would work with my bar and hopefully my strut as well. But called DSE and even though the stud doesn't fit in the oem strut in my case I would still be charged a 20% "restocking fee". It's not a huge deal or anything but it's pretty shitty to get burned on shipping twice and then 20% of the original price just to have something sent to you that is not compatible with an oem component...

But as Synner suggested in my other post I guess I'm now in the business of drilling out all these holes just to use these endlinks... I have the worst luck with parts for this car, a simple endlink install really shouldn't require drilling oem components.

NotYetLegend · 01-26-2015, 09:21 AM

A brief note/suggestions, if you do order DSE parts it may be wise to order from a true vendor, Like Summit for instance, that way you get free shipping and a 100% money back guarantee. I should have thought of this before ordering direct. Just a heads up.

NotYetLegend · 01-31-2015, 12:30 PM

Quick Update:

I bought this step drill bit set: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used the longest of the three bits for the front bar. First I drilled out the hole in the strut mounting tab, it only took one step worth of cutting, pretty minimal, endlink stud fit nice and snug after that. The sway bar hole required about two steps worth of cutting with the bit, not as much drilling as the rear bar, and then the endlink stud fit nice and snug.

The DSE front endlink hardware is in my opinion easier to use than the OEM stuff (DSE has a female hex on the end of the stud while OEM has a male). Car staying up on jackstands for a while longer but I will update after I get it on the road if their are any notable driving impressions.

Thanks guys!

fly2hip8 · 01-31-2015, 08:02 PM

I'm glad you posted all of this. Because this is exactly what I planned on buying. The DSE links and BMR swaybars. Guess i'll have to spend the extra on DSE swaybars.

NotYetLegend · 02-01-2015, 02:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fly2hip8

I'm glad you posted all of this. Because this is exactly what I planned on buying. The DSE links and BMR swaybars. Guess i'll have to spend the extra on DSE swaybars.

Yeah, I would recommend it just so you have easy compatibility. Alternatively you could just get the BMR front endlinks w/ their bar. The only reason I have DSE endlinks is because I broke an OEM rear and very few aftermarket suppliers make a rear link for the FE4 suspension, I wanted the front links to match the rear.

Whichever way you go, make sure you have the right tools to tighten the front bar endlink studs (either two wrenches or one wrench+ an Allen key).

If you have a really new camaro (2013+) and need the DSE-supplied spacer (for 12mm front sway bar endlink studs) let me know, I didn't use them and can send them to you.

Good luck!

JDP Sales · 02-03-2015, 12:46 PM

The DSE endlinks are an interference fit and are basically pressed in as you tighten the nut.

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007

JusticePete · 02-07-2015, 10:17 AM

How did you break the OE rear end link?

NotYetLegend · 02-07-2015, 10:45 PM

Finally got the car back on the road today. Front end feels great, no immediately noticeable difference between oem and dse endlinks that I can sense (I do use the softest bar setting). But I can vouch for the dse links that they are silent so far, look great and seem to be working very well (light too).

bannonm · 04-17-2015, 09:18 PM

Damn, I wish that I found this post before buying the DSE front end links. I have the Pfadt ZL-spec sways (12mm) and Pfadt Featherlight coil overs (10mm).

Words of advice, unless you have the DSE sway bar and coil overs, don't bother with these things. Even though these supposedly fit 10mm holes, the studs are too big. I measured the holes on the strut and they are slightly under 10mm. The end link studs are 10.46mm. So I drilled the upper tab the exact size and was able to squeeze the one end in. As for the sway bar which has 12.0mm holes, the adapter bushings are too big to fit into the holes on the sway bar (12.65 OD). So now I am concerned the bottom connection will loosen up on me since there's about 1.5mm of slop.

So the fact that the instructions imply you can use these on the OEM 1LE or ZL1 sway bar, the holes on those must be larger than the OD of 12.65mm of the adapter bushings.

TwentyTen2SSRS · 04-18-2015, 11:02 AM

I have BMR sb039 with DSE front end links and work fine for me

JusticePete · 04-18-2015, 08:51 PM

JPSS OEM Quiet High Efficiency Endlinks with 12mm Ball Studs top and bottom or 10mm top and bottom.

These links are exceptionally high quality and you can feel it as soon as you get your hands on them. The ball joints are virtually perfect. Roate the stud and ball. You can feel the precision. Web believe our endlinks offer the race track ready performance of a spherical style endlink with a greater range of motions and are as quiet as the endlinks installed at the factory.

JPSS OEM Quiet High Efficiency Adjustable Endlinks are adjustable in length, a feature that is critical in corner weighting your performance vehicle.

01-25-2015, 02:09 PM	#1
NotYetLegend Drives: 2012 1SS/RS Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Memphis, TN Posts: 344	HELP: Front Detroit Speed Sway Bar End Link (fitment issue) Hey guys, me again, with another end link problem........ So I tried to install the front DSE endlinks today and nothing worked right. I have a BMR front sway bar and the holes in the sway bar are too small to engage the stud coming out of the endlink (the threads fit through but not the non-threaded portion of the stud, see picture). I half expected this because the DSE rear links and BMR bar were not compatible either. What does surprise me is I had the same problem on the other side of the endlink where it engages the hole in the strut. So maybe the endlinks are only intended to work with DSE sway bars AND their coilovers??? If that's the case, well, I can't afford that. Here is a picture highlighting the part of the stud that will not engage the BMR sway bar hole and does not fully engage the hole in the strut: At this point I'll just have to call DSE tomorrow and ask them what to do. But in the meantime if anyone has encountered/solved this issue in the past please chime in. I believe I will end up ordering a new sway bar set from DSE, selling my BMR's in the classifieds (which are in perfect condition and I have no real desire to get rid of) and hope that DSE can give me a resolution step to the strut hole issue. Thanks guys. __________________ "Driving is the only thing I love about f1." (Kimi Raikkonen)

01-26-2015, 09:17 AM	#2
NotYetLegend Drives: 2012 1SS/RS Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Memphis, TN Posts: 344	Well crap, planned on returning these front links and instead order BMR's links because I know they would work with my bar and hopefully my strut as well. But called DSE and even though the stud doesn't fit in the oem strut in my case I would still be charged a 20% "restocking fee". It's not a huge deal or anything but it's pretty shitty to get burned on shipping twice and then 20% of the original price just to have something sent to you that is not compatible with an oem component... But as Synner suggested in my other post I guess I'm now in the business of drilling out all these holes just to use these endlinks... I have the worst luck with parts for this car, a simple endlink install really shouldn't require drilling oem components. __________________ "Driving is the only thing I love about f1." (Kimi Raikkonen)

01-26-2015, 09:21 AM	#3
NotYetLegend Drives: 2012 1SS/RS Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Memphis, TN Posts: 344	A brief note/suggestions, if you do order DSE parts it may be wise to order from a true vendor, Like Summit for instance, that way you get free shipping and a 100% money back guarantee. I should have thought of this before ordering direct. Just a heads up. __________________ "Driving is the only thing I love about f1." (Kimi Raikkonen)

01-31-2015, 12:30 PM	#4
NotYetLegend Drives: 2012 1SS/RS Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Memphis, TN Posts: 344	Quick Update: I bought this step drill bit set: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I used the longest of the three bits for the front bar. First I drilled out the hole in the strut mounting tab, it only took one step worth of cutting, pretty minimal, endlink stud fit nice and snug after that. The sway bar hole required about two steps worth of cutting with the bit, not as much drilling as the rear bar, and then the endlink stud fit nice and snug. The DSE front endlink hardware is in my opinion easier to use than the OEM stuff (DSE has a female hex on the end of the stud while OEM has a male). Car staying up on jackstands for a while longer but I will update after I get it on the road if their are any notable driving impressions. Thanks guys! __________________ "Driving is the only thing I love about f1." (Kimi Raikkonen)

02-07-2015, 10:45 PM	#9
NotYetLegend Drives: 2012 1SS/RS Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Memphis, TN Posts: 344	Finally got the car back on the road today. Front end feels great, no immediately noticeable difference between oem and dse endlinks that I can sense (I do use the softest bar setting). But I can vouch for the dse links that they are silent so far, look great and seem to be working very well (light too). __________________ "Driving is the only thing I love about f1." (Kimi Raikkonen)

01-31-2015, 08:02 PM	#5
fly2hip8 Drives: 2013 Camaro 2SS Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Kansas Posts: 342	I'm glad you posted all of this. Because this is exactly what I planned on buying. The DSE links and BMR swaybars. Guess i'll have to spend the extra on DSE swaybars.

02-03-2015, 12:46 PM	#7
JDP Sales Drives: Chevys at the limit Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: SLC, UT Posts: 9,621	The DSE endlinks are an interference fit and are basically pressed in as you tighten the nut. Best regards, Tyler 888-308-6007

02-07-2015, 10:17 AM	#8
JusticePete Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Virginia Posts: 20,174	How did you break the OE rear end link?

04-17-2015, 09:18 PM	#10
bannonm Drives: 2011 2SS/RS M6 VR Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Chicagoland Posts: 1,536	Another fitment issue Damn, I wish that I found this post before buying the DSE front end links. I have the Pfadt ZL-spec sways (12mm) and Pfadt Featherlight coil overs (10mm). Words of advice, unless you have the DSE sway bar and coil overs, don't bother with these things. Even though these supposedly fit 10mm holes, the studs are too big. I measured the holes on the strut and they are slightly under 10mm. The end link studs are 10.46mm. So I drilled the upper tab the exact size and was able to squeeze the one end in. As for the sway bar which has 12.0mm holes, the adapter bushings are too big to fit into the holes on the sway bar (12.65 OD). So now I am concerned the bottom connection will loosen up on me since there's about 1.5mm of slop. So the fact that the instructions imply you can use these on the OEM 1LE or ZL1 sway bar, the holes on those must be larger than the OD of 12.65mm of the adapter bushings. __________________

04-18-2015, 11:02 AM	#11
TwentyTen2SSRS Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 3,972 View My Garage	I have BMR sb039 with DSE front end links and work fine for me __________________ Cold Air Inductions CAI • Stainless Power LT's with HFC's • Flowmaster American Thunder Cat Back • APEX Scoop and WW Relocation Kit • VMAX Ported Throttle Body • Custom Dyno Tune • Pfadt 1.25" Lowering Springs • ZL1 Rims on 275 front 315 Rear • custome underlay vinyl wrap • Anvil Spoiler • heritage grill • APR Front Splitter • Custom Emblempros emblems • ZL1 Side Skirts • 416.5 whp 410 torque (CURRENTLY) Up Next: BTR Stage 3 Cam and supporting mods (in garage now)

04-18-2015, 08:51 PM	#12
JusticePete Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Virginia Posts: 20,174	JPSS OEM Quiet High Efficiency Endlinks with 12mm Ball Studs top and bottom or 10mm top and bottom. These links are exceptionally high quality and you can feel it as soon as you get your hands on them. The ball joints are virtually perfect. Roate the stud and ball. You can feel the precision. Web believe our endlinks offer the race track ready performance of a spherical style endlink with a greater range of motions and are as quiet as the endlinks installed at the factory. JPSS OEM Quiet High Efficiency Adjustable Endlinks are adjustable in length, a feature that is critical in corner weighting your performance vehicle.