Improving time from 330' to 660' in the 1/8th mile

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

Originally Posted by dynosteve

Did you do a log

No I did not. I didn't think I would have any issues. I didn't even bring the SCTX4 with me.

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

Originally Posted by dynosteve

Even if you think you are going to have a perfect run you always have to log and being that they was a tune change it is extremely important to do a log

I wasn't expecting a perfect run, was just expecting shift points to be corrected. I really don't know if they were because I was so frustrated trying to get the car to do a burnout all over again (same problem after putting 20" 555R's on), and seeing the horrible 60' times come up on the track display sign when I finally managed to do it.

I'm just going to put the other tune back on it. 7.95 in 877 DA isn't bad for my car compared to others with similar mods, so I'll just be happy with that.

[WoodBoss]

For drag racing it's best to add a full quart of transmission fluid above the stock level to our cars. You can get a dipstick from Janetty, it is the best one available for about $75.

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

Originally Posted by WoodBoss

For drag racing it's best to add a full quart of transmission fluid above the stock level to our cars. You can get a dipstick from Janetty, it is the best one available for about $75.

Thanks for the tip Frank. I had a transmission specialist check my level, it only needed 8oz. The next time I have the fluid changed, I'll definitely want one of these dipsticks put in.

Problem I'm having now (happened before) is I press the brake, hit the gas, and nothing happens.

Tried every mode, D, S, M. Just TC off, Stabilitrac competitive mode, and holding button for 10 seconds to turn everything off.

The only way the tires will spin at all with the brakes applied is in M mode using paddles, holding button for ten seconds to turn everything off.

Since the tranny is stalled now, it takes more pedal to get the tires to break loose (about 2900 rpm brake stall), and once they do, it's very easy to get to the rev limiter in 1st gear. Switching to 2nd has to be done at just the right point to keep them spinning, because if RPM's drop below 3K, they stop.

I don't like burning out this way. It was better/easier when I just was able to use S mode, hold the button for ten seconds to turn everything off, hold the brake, and rev it to 5500 rpm and hold for 4-5 seconds. Car did this every time perfectly on the prior tune.

Now when I set it up this way, it does nothing when you apply the gas pedal. Just sits there.

Shadyside will be closing for the season soon anyway, so around next spring, I'll take the car to be tuned on a dyno, and then driven with the tuner for fine tuning. This way I know everything will be right.

Nothing against Dynosteve, but these handhelds are limited in what they can do vs. a dyno tune.

[frankwjr]

ummmm...you do realize the "handheld" is just a device to xfer data...and to be fair to Steve the least you could do would be a full power run and log it for him to review...not giving him the opportunity isn't fair to either party...could be a simple adjust that you could verify and enjoy until next year...his tunes so far have been spot on for me and personally until I either H/C or F/I is where a dyno/road drive! tune is needed...hope you get it resolved bro!

BTW - mine name is Frank too and at first I thought you were replyin to me lulz...gettin old sux...

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

Originally Posted by frankwjr

ummmm...you do realize the "handheld" is just a device to xfer data...and to be fair to Steve the least you could do would be a full power run and log it for him to review...not giving him the opportunity isn't fair to either party...could be a simple adjust that you could verify and enjoy until next year...his tunes so far have been spot on for me and personally until I either H/C or F/I is where a dyno/road drive! tune is needed...hope you get it resolved bro!

BTW - mine name is Frank too and at first I thought you were replyin to me lulz...gettin old sux...

I already did this to try and get the shift points adjusted. They very well may be, I don't know this because after downloading the new tune for the adjustment on the original tune, the car reverted back to the "won't do a burnout" thing.

No need in logging a pass that has the tires spinning so much due to not being able to burn out. The shift to second more then likely is coming too soon because the car thinks it's going "X" mph, when in reality it's going much slower due to excessive tire spin.

I don't know why it went back to not being able to burnout from changing just the shift points.

I've had problems with the SCTX4 locking up during downloading a tune on the car before, so maybe it's the device itself. I don't know.

I have no hard feelings against Steve or RDP. Steve and Victor have been great to work with, and are always polite and professional.

For whatever reason, getting it dialed in with the SCTX4 has not worked since installing the CD 3200 stall after 2 different tunes.

Putting it on a dyno will get it right.

[frankwjr]

every time before I do anything with the SCT is update everything, live-link, the hand held etc...and when I change tunes I always revert back to stock...start and run the car for a moment to verify and then proceed with the new tune...doors shut, radio off...SCT has a device updater program I d/l and used for the hand held...good luck...

[WoodBoss]

My tunes go on quick and easy. I flip flop between a Naturally Aspirated tune and a Nitrous tune. My car shifts right at 6500 rpm. I do my burnouts in "M" mode not "S" mode, I don't want it shifting. I would just do a data log on a hard pull like you were at the track and send it to Steve so you can have it right and then see if you really want to have it Dyno Tuned. A tune from Steve is free a Dyno Tune is pricey. Sometimes it takes time to get things right when you are working remotely. I will check my SCT X4 this weekend, my car has been in the garage with all the crap weather we have had and I haven't gotten home early enough to check it out. You will get it right Joe one way or the other.

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

Originally Posted by frankwjr

every time before I do anything with the SCT is update everything, live-link, the hand held etc...and when I change tunes I always revert back to stock...start and run the car for a moment to verify and then proceed with the new tune...doors shut, radio off...SCT has a device updater program I d/l and used for the hand held...good luck...

If I did this, wouldn't I have to re-load all 5 tunes after returning it to stock?

My car was initially tuned with the SCTX4 for cold air intake, headers, and the tranny tune for shift pressure, as well as disabling AFM.

The second tune was to allow the car to burnout. The original tune was set not to allow a burnout because at this point I wasn't going to the dragstrip.

The third tune was for the 160* stat, to change the temp that the fans come on.

The fourth tune was for the 3200 stall. I don't know what exactly was changed, my guess would be shift pressure, shift points, and lockup speed. The car did pick up 2 tenths in the 1/8 mile, but it probably has at least another tenth with shift points corrected. Steve thought I may even get more then this. The car didn't run bad or anything. It ran 7.95 in 877 DA, good enough for 20th place on the 1/8th mile fast list, but it does have a better ET in it if the shift points are corrected.

The fifth tune was to change shift points. They very well may be corrected from this tune. I don't know because I couldn't get the car to do a proper burnout after this tune. It reverted back to the mode it was in after the first tune. Basically spinning the whole 60'.

So if I return to stock, and only load the fifth tune afterwards, won't I be leaving off all the other changes that were made in the prior tunes? I would think I would have to reload all 5 tunes.

Originally Posted by WoodBoss

My tunes go on quick and easy. I flip flop between a Naturally Aspirated tune and a Nitrous tune. My car shifts right at 6500 rpm. I do my burnouts in "M" mode not "S" mode, I don't want it shifting. I would just do a data log on a hard pull like you were at the track and send it to Steve so you can have it right and then see if you really want to have it Dyno Tuned. A tune from Steve is free a Dyno Tune is pricey. Sometimes it takes time to get things right when you are working remotely. I will check my SCT X4 this weekend, my car has been in the garage with all the crap weather we have had and I haven't gotten home early enough to check it out. You will get it right Joe one way or the other.

The only thing about just doing a hard pull log Frank is my car has the Nitto 555R 20"s on it when I'm not going to the strip. I'd need to put the 18" MT ET Street R's on. Also I'd need to do a full 1/8th mile, and being that I'd be around 87mph or so, I'd go to jail if I got caught doing this on a public road.

With my car being stalled now, unlike the stock converter in yours, it takes much more RPM's to get the tires to break loose when holding the brake. If I use 1st in M mode with everything off, I have to get around 3k just to barely even get them to spin, then giving it a little more pedal, it gets to the rev limiter real quick, if I shift to 2nd too soon, and the RPM's drop to 3k, the tires stop spinning.

After the first TC tune I was able to burnout the way I always did. Put it in S mode, hold the button for 10 seconds, apply the brake, rev to 5500 RPM's. The car would shift to second after about 4-5 seconds but at that point I'd just let off and let it roll out. Got a 1.7X 60' every time this way with the 18" MT's. Now after putting the last tune on, I can't even get the tires to spin at all setting up this way, car wont even rev up.

I might try removing the last tune and reloading it on to the car. I've had to do this a couple times before on prior tunes with the SCTX4 ,because they didn't load right the first time.

I'm going to go outside and freeze today putting on my Moroso catch can, so I might as well give this a shot while I'm out there.

I would much rather not have to dyno and save that money towards some front skinnys if I can.

[frankwjr]

the tunes DO NOT load on top of each other!!!! it's just 1 tune Steve is making changes to and renaming..I only keep the last tune on the hand held...

wait until the temps come back up in a couple of days...take her out for a 15-20 min drive to get everything nice and warm and do a logged run...don't turn any nannies off just leave it like it is when you first start up...0-100 is usually enough...

which engine sensors is Steve having you log? I went in Live-Link and created a log profile based off of Jannety's recommended sensors to log...like only 10 or 12...have to check..

keep us updated!

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

Originally Posted by frankwjr

the tunes DO NOT load on top of each other!!!! it's just 1 tune Steve is making changes to and renaming..I only keep the last tune on the hand held...

wait until the temps come back up in a couple of days...take her out for a 15-20 min drive to get everything nice and warm and do a logged run...don't turn any nannies off just leave it like it is when you first start up...0-100 is usually enough...

which engine sensors is Steve having you log? I went in Live-Link and created a log profile based off of Jannety's recommended sensors to log...like only 10 or 12...have to check..

keep us updated!

Steve had me do a logged pass at the strip, the first one I did only had the pass, he wanted the burnout included (I didn't know this the first time so didn't include it), so I went back and did a second one with burnout included. I have no idea what sensors were logged. I just plugged it up, pressed record. After sending the second pass including burnout, he sent me a revised tune, to fix the shift points, as the original tune for the 3200 stall had all shift points at 5400 rpm.

After putting this tune on the car, it reverted back to the "wont do a burnout" settings it had from the very first tune. So the shift points may be corrected, I don't know this because I couldn't make a proper pass due to not being able to burnout properly. 60' times went from 1.7X to 2.XX. Spinning the whole 60'. ET went from 7.95 to 8.3 and worse

The hits just keep on coming....... went to install my Moroso catch can today...... top part of can has a deep scuff in it..... bracket is too long that connects to radiator bolts, so I can't install it......what next.

[frankwjr]

deep breath and 1 thing at a time....and my understanding that unless F/I catch can really not required, when I did my fuel rail flip/coolant hose relocation I went ahead and pulled the intake manifold to check...just varnish against the port walls, intake valves clean, motor in my car was replaced at 70k with a brand new '14 LS3 and there was about 40k on this motor...from Jannettys instructions...

You may have to test several PIDs to see which ones work best or work at all on your car.
Engine RPM - RPM
MAP-Intkman abs prss
FUEL PRESSURE
ECT engine coolant temp – ecteng clt tmp
TPS throttle position or pedal position – acc pdl pos 1s
IAT intake air temp or Air intake temp – intk Airtmp
MAF Mass Air flow Hz – Maffre 125
TIMING spark cylinder 1 – ign Tim Adv4#1cyl
KNOCK RETARD – knk ret
Vehicle speed Kph–?
Long Term Fuel Trim bank 1 – ltf tri b1
Long Term Fuel Trim bank 2 – ltf tri b2

Like I said before I have the SCT Live Link Gen 2 on my laptop and I can create custom log profiles...have not figured a way to load that on the handheld so I have to have the laptop in the car too to data log...

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

Originally Posted by frankwjr

deep breath and 1 thing at a time....and my understanding that unless F/I catch can really not required, when I did my fuel rail flip/coolant hose relocation I went ahead and pulled the intake manifold to check...just varnish against the port walls, intake valves clean, motor in my car was replaced at 70k with a brand new '14 LS3 and there was about 40k on this motor...from Jannettys instructions...

You may have to test several PIDs to see which ones work best or work at all on your car.
Engine RPM - RPM
MAP-Intkman abs prss
FUEL PRESSURE
ECT engine coolant temp – ecteng clt tmp
TPS throttle position or pedal position – acc pdl pos 1s
IAT intake air temp or Air intake temp – intk Airtmp
MAF Mass Air flow Hz – Maffre 125
TIMING spark cylinder 1 – ign Tim Adv4#1cyl
KNOCK RETARD – knk ret
Vehicle speed Kph–?
Long Term Fuel Trim bank 1 – ltf tri b1
Long Term Fuel Trim bank 2 – ltf tri b2

Like I said before I have the SCT Live Link Gen 2 on my laptop and I can create custom log profiles...have not figured a way to load that on the handheld so I have to have the laptop in the car too to data log...

I had a little oil on the reverse side of my stock throttle body that I noticed when I put the Bo White TB on, so I figured a catch can would be a good idea to eliminate this. The kit I got was supposed to come with 2 different brackets, but I got two of the same. Hopefully Moroso has the one that fits my car. If not, I guess I'll just have to send it back.

Again as previously stated, the original tune for the 3200 stall was good with the only exception of the shift points. It ran 7.95 in 877 DA.

Adding the 3200 stall, 18" wheels with MT ET Street R, along with the LSR T/L's and T/A's should get a reduction of 3-4 tenths. I got just a little over 2. Correcting the shift points should get me the other tenth. They may very well be correct now.

But even if they are, with my car being unable to do a burnout now, it makes no difference. I can't get off the line without spinning and my 60' has gone from 1.7X to 2.XX.

If I can't heat the tires up, I can't hook. If I can't hook it's impossible to improve my ET.

The very first tune that was put on the car was set up like this, and verified by Steve when I spoke with him after discovering the car wouldn't rev up at all with the brake held. He sent a tune to fix this, and it did.

Two other tunes were put on after this, and it didn't revert back to this. Car would do a burnout.

The last tune for fixing the shift points was sent and loaded onto the car, and now, again, it wont do a burnout.
I guess I can try and delete the last tune off my computer and the SCTX4, reload it onto the device and the car, and see if it goes back to allowing the car to rev up with the brake being held down. It cant hurt to try.

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

Reloaded the last tune, took car to an empty parking lot. Something has to be wrong with my SCTX4.

Car will now rev up in "S" mode with just TC off... also when holding button for 10 seconds to turn all nannies off, with left foot on brake.

For some reason it will not in stabilitrac competitive mode. I've never tried making a pass in this mode anyway. Strange that it wont though.

Might get one last chance before season is over to take it to the strip.
Just have to wait and see.