Projected hp/tq

[blackknight0512]

I have a 2012 ls (lfx) with roto fab cold air intake, a custom mid muffler exhaust, with ported tb and trifecta tune both ordered.what do you think my whp and tq would be?? As well as at the crank. Do you all think I am close to 300 at the wheels?

Also, having the steelies, would it drastically change hp to switch wheels?

[HP Turbine]

AUTO or MANUAL? I was at 277 whp with a CAI, cat back, PTB, and NO tune with an auto. If you have a manual I'm sure you are close. heavier wheels change the results some. Also heat will be a major hp sucker for you right now.

[Kessler]

Yeah, I don't wanna dyno mine, but, any guestimates for HP or torgue numbers
Cold Air Induction Cold Air intake, Elite Catch Can, and MRT V1 axle back?

2012 LFX Auto 6

[blackknight0512]

Mine is manual. So if you are at 277 without the tune, I am thinking from what I have read that the lfx could get as much as 30 hp out of a tune and these mods. I should be knocking on the door of 300 rwhp. Now the problem is getting the torque up without going fi.

Kessler-based upon the prior response I would guess you would be +-270??

Doesn't this mean that these cars are over rated at 323 then? Isn't it roughly 15% loss from crank to wheels?

[HP Turbine]

Rough rule is 18% losses with a manual and 20% losses with an automatic. Torque and v6s are difficult without FI.

[KMPrenger]

Blackknight you definitely won't be picking up 30 peak rwhp with the tune. Your wheels will also hold you back, but if you had the 19s or something similiar, I feel like you should easily be in the 280s, and likely even 290s. I doubt you'd cross the 300 mark, but would be cool to know.

If you have a dyno nearby, you should try it out sometime for the heck of it.

Have to keep in mind though, the dyno is a tuning tool, and not really a fully accurate read out if your true rwhp. Every dyno will ready differently, and other factors will come in to play like temperature, humidity, and if your car is heat soaked that will also kill power.

[blackknight0512]

Yeah, I am going to try and find one once the tune and tb arrive. Just would love to hit the illustrious 300 mark with only (minor) mods. Summer time down here will probably not help things either. You mention the 19's but wouldn't that almost negate the weight difference because it is having to turn a larger wheel? I was thinking about just picking up the lt 18's because I think they are only 22-24 lbs ea. that would be essentially shedding 10 lbs at each wheel. Does that just make it feel different or would that actually show a change in whp?

[blackknight0512]

Hp- based upon the 18% loss at manual your car has roughly 337 hp at crank now? So you have essentially only gained 14 hp over what it was initially advertised? That seems really low, unless I am just doing something wrong

[HP Turbine]

Originally Posted by blackknight0512

Hp- based upon the 18% loss at manual your car has roughly 337 hp at crank now? So you have essentially only gained 14 hp over what it was initially advertised? That seems really low, unless I am just doing something wrong

I have an automatic. so it's 20% losses. mathematically 346*.8= 276.8
So I potentially had 346 hp at the crank making a gain of 23 hp.
side note: I have well over 500 hp at the crank now.

[The Black Knight]

Originally Posted by blackknight0512

I have a 2012 ls (lfx) with roto fab cold air intake, a custom mid muffler exhaust, with ported tb and trifecta tune both ordered.what do you think my whp and tq would be?? As well as at the crank. Do you all think I am close to 300 at the wheels?

Also, having the steelies, would it drastically change hp to switch wheels?

Yes, changing out your heavy stock heritage wheels for something significantly lighter will not only remove unsprung weight from the vehicle but will free up horsepower that was been robbed to turn those heavy piles.

Between doing an exhaust(axle back) and changing my wheels, I've managed to save 158.8lbs on the car. Also when I changed out my stock wheels for a set of C5 Corvette wheels, I also lowered the overall ride of my car by roughly 1.5 inches. Car handles better, looks better sitting lower to the ground. Only problems so far are speed bumps. I have to approach them very slowly or at an angle to avoid scraping the exhaust. But it's something you live with when you lower a car.

[KMPrenger]

Originally Posted by blackknight0512

Yeah, I am going to try and find one once the tune and tb arrive. Just would love to hit the illustrious 300 mark with only (minor) mods. Summer time down here will probably not help things either. You mention the 19's but wouldn't that almost negate the weight difference because it is having to turn a larger wheel? I was thinking about just picking up the lt 18's because I think they are only 22-24 lbs ea. that would be essentially shedding 10 lbs at each wheel. Does that just make it feel different or would that actually show a change in whp?

The 19s would be a gain in power to the ground b/c of the weight loss. The larger rim doesn't make a difference as the tire is smaller.

Yes the LT 18s would be even better for putting power down. Probably not the best for handling though.

[IneedAZ]

Keep in mind, you have to run 20's or bigger if u ever want to do the larger brake rotor upgrade.

[blackknight0512]

Ineedaz- what kind of hp are you putting down based upon your mods. Spent some serious time and money on that. Nice work.

Not sure if I will be planning too much more for it as I'm looking at getting a 69-71 Chevelle for a project. So I'm sure just some cheap/low weight 18's would be fine for me.

[JohnnyBfromPeoria]

Originally Posted by blackknight0512

So I'm sure just some cheap/low weight 18's would be fine for me.

My ASA wheels were around $179 each, as I recall, from Tire Rack. They weigh almost a full 10 lbs less than the steelies. 18"x8".

Get a '71 Chevelle (IMO). The round tail lights are an improvement in style, to my eye.

John B.