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Old 06-29-2016, 05:20 PM   #1
sun47me
 
Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SS
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Rear suspension popping noise after BMR trailing arm replaced

I replaced the trailing arms on my 2011 camaro as. After 1500-2000mi. I can hear popping noise coming from the rear supension when going thru rough roads not all the time but 100% when body twist. Does anyone have same problem and what was the cause and fix?
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Old 06-29-2016, 08:27 PM   #2
JusticePete
 
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What did you replace them with?
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Old 07-03-2016, 06:25 PM   #3
sun47me
 
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I replace the stock trailing arm and bushing with a BMR trailing arm and Bushing. I was fine for more than 2 months. I have taken it a dealer and a friendly service station. They can replicate the noise but cannot find what is causing them
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Old 07-03-2016, 06:26 PM   #4
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What endlinks do you have?
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Old 07-04-2016, 06:08 PM   #5
sun47me
 
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If you are talking about the sway bar end links. They are still the stock. Aside from the trailing arms all are still stock.
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Old 07-04-2016, 06:39 PM   #6
Magz_rule
 
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Grease them until they are bulging/oozing out the sides of the bushing.. and then a bit more lol. I have to constantly regrease them or they make noise over any rough roads
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Old 07-05-2016, 01:45 PM   #7
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I will try to grease them, this weekend and let you guys know. Thanks for the input.
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Old 07-05-2016, 01:48 PM   #8
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Sorry, I've had a few Vacation days. Let me know the results
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Old 07-09-2016, 05:22 AM   #9
sun47me
 
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So I had the time to grease it Friday. I pumped grease with the vehicle wheel on the ground as BMR recommended. I pumped greased until I saw grease oozing on the sides, and I give it a couple more pums. When I removed the greaser, grease was oozing out of the zerk fitting. Wipe off the extra grease and took the car for a test drive. The noise was still there but now it has a higher frequency. Before it sound like a popping noise, now it sound like metal to metal. Everything looks tight. My paint marks on the head bolts and nut when I installed the trailing arms are still aligned.
Any other suggestions? Thanks in advance.
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Old 07-09-2016, 07:20 AM   #10
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Was anything other than the RTA bolts/arm loosened up during installation? Did you replace the Knuckle bushing with the Knuckle still installed in the vehicle? I imagine this is a challenge and required a press tool as I used. So - IF you are sure it is the RTA causing the issue, unbolt one end at a time, articulate it fully to check for free movement and no binding, and inspect the sleeves in the bushings for grease etc.


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Old 07-09-2016, 08:14 AM   #11
flyer08
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Had a similar issue and it was a couple of bolts weren't torq'd properly and were really loose.
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Old 07-11-2016, 03:52 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyer08 View Post
Had a similar issue and it was a couple of bolts weren't torq'd properly and were really loose.
That would be my guess in this case
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Old 07-11-2016, 04:06 PM   #13
Black_SS10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyer08 View Post
Had a similar issue and it was a couple of bolts weren't torq'd properly and were really loose.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR Sales View Post
That would be my guess in this case

This is exactly why I am so adamant about torque specs and use a torque wrench on everything.
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Old 07-11-2016, 04:31 PM   #14
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Unless you used all new GM bolts and fasteners, the torque values are going to be off. Almost every suspension nut is quenched and single use. Installing once and removing in once reduced the quench. Most people reuse these fasteners. In that case they need to be mechanic tight and installed with LocTite. Road debris, corrosion and rust alter TQ values. Damaged threads alter torque values.

Following factory procedures and torque specs is never a bad plan. However, factory specs are set for everything in new condition under ideal assembly conditions. Just something to keep in mind.
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