Got my springs and sways........installed.......with VIDEO - Page 4 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

PQ · 02-01-2010, 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BMR guy

It doesn't seem right but the gap is normal. You should have about 1/4" on both sides. If the other side is flush it's just because the strut mount hasn't seated in the strut tower yet. Putting the weight back on the suspension and turning the wheels or bouncing the car will seat it. The gap is designed into it for turning. To see what I mean try this. Once you put the car back on the ground, start it and turn the wheels lock-to-lock. You will notice that the upper strut washers "rock" side-to-side and the gap closes on one side. When the wheels are straight the gap goes back to normal. The washers are designed for strut retention but require this gap due to the suspension design.

Thee was no gap when I took them off.

PQ · 02-01-2010, 12:09 PM

Ok. Just called Pfadt and was told that this gap is mormal. I've been freaking out. I guess I just don't understand why the gap changed from none, to what I have now.

jeffny09 · 02-01-2010, 12:15 PM

so why has it changed to what u have now?

BMR guy · 02-01-2010, 12:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PQ

Ok. Just called Pfadt and was told that this gap is mormal. I've been freaking out. I guess I just don't understand why the gap changed from none, to what I have now.

You may have remembered it when the suspension was hanging. With the suspension unloaded, there is no gap. Loaded, the strut is fully seated and the washers will have the gap.

PQ · 02-01-2010, 01:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeffny09

so why has it changed to what u have now?

I had allready lifted it.

The guys at Pfadt said that the retainer washer is only there to keep the strut from falling out when the car is lifted and the suspension drop.
I do feel kinda like an idiot.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BMR guy

You may have remembered it when the suspension was hanging. With the suspension unloaded, there is no gap. Loaded, the strut is fully seated and the washers will have the gap.

Exactly correct.

I talked to Scott and he went out to his to look and there was the same gap.

BMR guy · 02-01-2010, 02:54 PM

No biggie, the first time I saw it I thought something was screwed up too!

Jeanius · 02-01-2010, 03:16 PM

Take it for a spin yet???

g-townmach · 02-01-2010, 04:13 PM

Post some pics when you get done too!

Ject · 02-01-2010, 04:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by g-townmach

Post some pics when you get done too!

BackinBlackSS/RS · 02-01-2010, 05:30 PM

This has been quite an experience. My hats off to you. I'm not sure how many would have the balls to do this with no experience. Very nice!!!

Alain · 02-01-2010, 06:41 PM

where are the pics dude

FFPM73 · 02-01-2010, 07:08 PM

I just put on the Eibach Pro Kit. I had the car jacked up on 4 stands just until the front tire left the ground. The rear springs and sway bar is a breeze. Keep in mind YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE EXHAUST. I'm sure it will make it easier but I had my new springs and sway bar installed in less than 2 hours including removing the old stuff and clean up.

Now, the front. YOU DO NOT NEED TO JACK THE ENGINE UP!!! Again, it may make it a little easier, however, I had the new springs and sway bar in in less than 2 hours including removal of the old stuff and clean up. TRICK: the front sway bar, remove totally the front end links which will make snaking the old/new bar easier. The way I did it was I snaked the bar out the passenger side and and the new one in the same way. Be sure to tork all strut bolts front and rear as well as front/rear end links with vehicle on the ground. The back are easy to get to but the front you have to turn the wheel to reach strut bolts and end links. It's not rocket science, you'll figure it out.

PQ · 02-01-2010, 07:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeanius

Take it for a spin yet???

Not a good one. Just around the block. Gotta get it aligned.

Quote:

Originally Posted by g-townmach

Post some pics when you get done too!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ject

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alain

where are the pics dude

Tomorrow. My camera cord is at the office.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1320junkie

.umm told ya so..lol..ok no more emergency texts about your suspension okay...lol

Ok, so a freaked out a little.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BackinBlackSS/RS

This has been quite an experience. My hats off to you. I'm not sure how many would have the balls to do this with no experience. Very nice!!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by FFPM73

I just put on the Eibach Pro Kit. I had the car jacked up on 4 stands just until the front tire left the ground. The rear springs and sway bar is a breeze. Keep in mind YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE EXHAUST. I'm sure it will make it easier but I had my new springs and sway bar installed in less than 2 hours including removing the old stuff and clean up.

Now, the front. YOU DO NOT NEED TO JACK THE ENGINE UP!!! Again, it may make it a little easier, however, I had the new springs and sway bar in in less than 2 hours including removal of the old stuff and clean up. TRICK: the front sway bar, remove totally the front end links which will make snaking the old/new bar easier. The way I did it was I snaked the bar out the passenger side and and the new one in the same way. Be sure to tork all strut bolts front and rear as well as front/rear end links with vehicle on the ground. The back are easy to get to but the front you have to turn the wheel to reach strut bolts and end links. It's not rocket science, you'll figure it out.

I torqued them whit it up. Should I break them loose and re-torque?

caverman · 02-01-2010, 09:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PQ

I torqued them whit it up. Should I break them loose and re-torque?

I wouldn't think you would need to break them loose. I would just re-torque them.

02-01-2010, 12:09 PM	#44
PQ Booooosted. Drives: 2010 Supercharged SS Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Mobile, AL Posts: 36,716 View My Garage	Ok. Just called Pfadt and was told that this gap is mormal. I've been freaking out. I guess I just don't understand why the gap changed from none, to what I have now. __________________

02-01-2010, 12:15 PM	#45
jeffny09 Drives: 2010 camaro Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: new york Posts: 5,618	so why has it changed to what u have now? __________________ top 10 reason why real men drive stick. 10. A manual transmission is the ultimate in control 9. You can use automotive jargon and not sound like a total tool 8. You can't spell "manual" without "man" 7. Manual transmissions prove you can do more than one thing at a time 6. You can't drift in an auto 5. You can't pull fancy moves in an automatic 4. You get better fuel economy with a stick 3. You’ll never look like a chump if you can drive stick 2. Manual transmission cars are faster 1. Women like a guy who is good with his hands.

02-01-2010, 03:16 PM	#49
Jeanius Drives: Blk/Blk 2018 Sierra SLT Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Golden State Posts: 2,925	Take it for a spin yet??? __________________ SOLD: 2SS LS3 M6 - MGW - Dynatech LT's HF Cats - Magnaflow Street CB - ADM Race CAI - Pedders Xa Coilovers - Pfadt Sways TRADED: 2016 2SS M6

02-01-2010, 04:13 PM	#50
g-townmach I FARTED Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: cen-tex Posts: 870	Post some pics when you get done too! __________________

02-01-2010, 07:08 PM	#54
FFPM73 Firefighter/Paramedic Drives: RJT 2SS/RS M6 LS-3 Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Burlington, KY 41005 Posts: 423	I just put on the Eibach Pro Kit. I had the car jacked up on 4 stands just until the front tire left the ground. The rear springs and sway bar is a breeze. Keep in mind YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE EXHAUST. I'm sure it will make it easier but I had my new springs and sway bar installed in less than 2 hours including removing the old stuff and clean up. Now, the front. YOU DO NOT NEED TO JACK THE ENGINE UP!!! Again, it may make it a little easier, however, I had the new springs and sway bar in in less than 2 hours including removal of the old stuff and clean up. TRICK: the front sway bar, remove totally the front end links which will make snaking the old/new bar easier. The way I did it was I snaked the bar out the passenger side and and the new one in the same way. Be sure to tork all strut bolts front and rear as well as front/rear end links with vehicle on the ground. The back are easy to get to but the front you have to turn the wheel to reach strut bolts and end links. It's not rocket science, you'll figure it out. __________________ *FFPM73*

02-01-2010, 02:54 PM	#48
BMR guy Drives: 2010 1SS Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Tampa, FL Posts: 1,002	No biggie, the first time I saw it I thought something was screwed up too!

02-01-2010, 05:30 PM	#52
BackinBlackSS/RS Go Blue!!!!! Drives: 2012 Cruze LT Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Indiana Posts: 23,290	This has been quite an experience. My hats off to you. I'm not sure how many would have the balls to do this with no experience. Very nice!!!

02-01-2010, 06:41 PM	#53
Alain Drives: 2016 Challenger Hellcat, 2018 ZL1LE Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Northern NJ Posts: 3,003	where are the pics dude

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