06-19-2014, 04:51 PM | #1 |
Drives: 2010 1SS M6 460rwhp Join Date: May 2014
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 84
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< $20 Lowes Catch Can w/ drain plug
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06-19-2014, 05:53 PM | #2 |
Drives: 2016 1LT RS Camaro; 72 Chevelle Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Central Point, OR
Posts: 5,688
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You may want to swap out your 3m pads for something like stainless steel pot scrubbers... I've heard stories of pads like that degrading over time and pieces getting sucked into the engine.
Aside from that, I applaud your creativity! |
06-19-2014, 06:14 PM | #3 |
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I agree with Jason on using steel wool. I work in the oil and gas industry, and we refer to this as a gas scrubber. Here is a design of it: http://www.ahlundberginc.com/images/bleach16.gif
The idea is to enter the chamber near the bottom and force the gas (speaking of natural gas that we deal with) through a media (steel wool) for liquids to adhere to. They then fall out to the bottom of the chamber to be dumped out.
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06-19-2014, 08:29 PM | #4 | |
Drives: 2010 1SS M6 460rwhp Join Date: May 2014
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 84
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Quote:
I would probably replace the 3m pad every couple of oil changes anyway..they are less than 3 bucks for two full pads which would easily 4 change outs cutting them in half. |
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06-21-2014, 02:05 AM | #5 |
Drives: 2012 Victory Red LFX Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: west central Texas
Posts: 1,310
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This is exactly what I was looking for!
Are those nipples 3/8ths? Hose size is 3/8ths too? Don't think I've seen a tee in the commercial kits, just two 90 degree. Thanks. |
06-21-2014, 02:21 AM | #6 |
Drives: 2010 1SS M6 460rwhp Join Date: May 2014
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 84
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The t barb isn't needed just got it in case. There aren't any lines running from the back of my valve covers on my ss they are both blocked off. Yes the barb ends are all 3/8 and the threaded ends into the base are 1/2.
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06-21-2014, 03:26 AM | #7 |
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Drives: 2011 Camaro VR 2SS/RS & Impala Join Date: Apr 2013
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Nice!
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06-21-2014, 03:27 AM | #8 |
Philippians 4:13
Drives: SLP Supercharged LS3 Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: The Motor City - Michigan
Posts: 2,902
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Pretty cool.
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06-21-2014, 08:53 AM | #9 |
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06-21-2014, 10:04 AM | #10 |
Drives: 2010 1SS M6 460rwhp Join Date: May 2014
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 84
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The point wasn't to just buy an air/water separator like everyone else that does it themselves.
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06-21-2014, 03:03 PM | #11 |
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The point was to save money and not pay billet prices.
Maybe you missed the point I was showing. |
06-21-2014, 03:51 PM | #12 |
Drives: 2010 1SS M6 460rwhp Join Date: May 2014
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 84
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See how long the filter lasts using an air/water seperator when you are stopping used motor oil. Not long. It will clog.
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06-21-2014, 05:22 PM | #13 |
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I have been using this medium for filter elements since 2009 and haven't had any problems with clogging or degradation yet. I'm not too keen with having stranded stainless steel in the PCV line. No matter how you cut it, there's always some fragments left. But that's just me.
The world's full of choices. Sorry I bugged your thread. |
06-21-2014, 06:12 PM | #14 |
Captain Gingerbeard
Drives: 2012 IOM RS/SS 6MT Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: West Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 2,489
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I didn't use steel wool in my catch can, instead I used this:
http://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-Brit...3392311&sr=1-4 Larger filaments, stainless steel, and it's actually the perfect size already - just pop the entire thing in. |
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