11-18-2012, 09:31 AM | #15 |
Drives: 2021 1LE Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: N'Awlinz
Posts: 6,315
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11-18-2012, 10:31 AM | #16 |
"Detailing Devil Dog"
Drives: 2001 Corvette Coupe Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 2,730
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"Marines - Making the other guy die for his country for over 200 years."
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11-18-2012, 11:58 AM | #17 |
Drives: E92 BMW M3 Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Houston
Posts: 4,496
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Hey Junkman, been watching your videos a lot and have to thank you as its been extremely helpful. I got my complete 2 bucket wash system delivered yesterday and I am ready to take delivery of my new camaro in a few weeks. I want to ask, do you have any suggestions for 'must do's' on a new car's paint. Apply a coat of sealant after a thourough wash?
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SOLD - 2013 1LE - Pat G Spec'd Cam, NPP with 1 7/8" Long Tube Headers with High Flow Cats, Intake w/scoop, Ported Throttle Body, and Apex 1.25" Lowering Springs.
J-Rod Built and Matt@FSP Tuned |
11-18-2012, 12:51 PM | #18 | |
"Detailing Devil Dog"
Drives: 2001 Corvette Coupe Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 2,730
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Quote:
Make that comparison to paint. If you care for your paint the proper way, then the routine you use to address a given situation is always the same. If you have paint contamination, you clay. If you have swirls, you polish. In order to protect the paint from the elements of nature, you wax. If the first two are not an issue, all you have to do is wash and wax. Some people think that you have to do something different because of winter. Absolutely bogus. The only thing you may have to do is MORE of what you already should be doing. You MAY have to wash more often. You MAY have to wax more often. I don't have to winterize my car's paint because I do what I'm supposed to be doing all year long. If I'm going to be exposing my paint to harsh weather or road salt, I'm going to make sure that I keep a good coat of wax on the car. Since I do that anyway, I'm not doing anything different. I may do it MORE OFTEN during the winter but my regiment never changes. So what you should do to your new car's paint depends on what shape it is in. You test it with the plastic bag for contamination. If it needs to be clayed, then clay it. After claying, I always polish to remove any light marring. Then I apply my sealant and after the sealant cures, I'll top that off with a carnuba paste wax (like Collinite's Super Doublecoat Wax because I'm too lazy to do 2 coats of sealant due to how long it takes to cure). Once you get your car and look at your paint, what needs to be done to it should be crystal clear to you if what you've just read makes sense.
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"Marines - Making the other guy die for his country for over 200 years."
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11-18-2012, 02:07 PM | #19 |
Drives: E92 BMW M3 Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Houston
Posts: 4,496
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I completely understand! Thanks a lot.
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SOLD - 2013 1LE - Pat G Spec'd Cam, NPP with 1 7/8" Long Tube Headers with High Flow Cats, Intake w/scoop, Ported Throttle Body, and Apex 1.25" Lowering Springs.
J-Rod Built and Matt@FSP Tuned |
11-19-2012, 05:43 PM | #20 |
Drives: 2013 2SS RS 1LE Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Eastern PA
Posts: 251
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How many of you that have already taken delivery of your 1LE's are doing the fuse pull? My question would be even if the dealer puts 93 octane in it, the car was still driven about 15 miles at the factory. Has it ever been verified what kind of gas they're putting in at the factory? If its 87 octane then theoretically everyone would need to do the fuse pull regardless of what the dealer put in.
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11-19-2012, 09:37 PM | #21 |
Est.1775
Drives: '15 Challenger Hellcat (sold) Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: SoCal
Posts: 5,502
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Very informative thread. Didn't know a lot of what was said.
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