Replacing the starter?

[TripleB]

Originally Posted by xc_SS/RS

Very nice thanks for the write up. Mine has not even turned over on the first two attempts the past two days in a row. Starting to think its going, all I get is a click like it wants to start then nothing. Does that twice then turns over the third time. Good tip on the link, may purchase if it does it again when I leave work.

Also I watched the video and I don't think my car has ever started like that. Really leaning towards Tue starter now.



Yeah I thought I was on the original battery but it was replaced two years ago. Had it tested and it came back that it was fine. Now the starter seems to not want to turn over on the first attempt.

Ah, well I know mine is the original. I ordered the car and never had any issues with the battery. Took the old one out and down to Auto Zone and it failed their battery tester. Bought a new one and installed and it fires up fine.

[xc_SS/RS]

Anyone know if the starter bolts need to be replaced when replacing the starter? Not sure if they're TTY.

[Low Saturn]

Originally Posted by xc_SS/RS

Anyone know if the starter bolts need to be replaced when replacing the starter? Not sure if they're TTY.

I didn't and the factory service manual doesn't mention having to.

[JakesRJT]

I recently went through this same deal... removed battery had it tested several times.. tested good took out starter had it tested and it tested good... so I replaced the battery had a dead cell and the tests weren't catching it... but yea the batteries aren't cheap...

[xc_SS/RS]

So I changed the starter and it now starts up much better than before. Immediately noticeable even to my friends as well. But now I've been having the starter relay click, then no start. I turn the key to start the car and all I get is a click, then nothing. Try again and the same thing. Usually on the third time it'll start. Going to check all grounds tonight, anyone have any ideas? Might be the battery now so I will have to get it retested.

Also how many bolts should be on the starter post for the power wire? Mine had two, only put one on and the starter didn't turn over. I had to sandwich the wire terminal between both bolts for it to turn over. Not sure if that's the correct way it should go as the above PDF shows only one bolt...

[h018871]

Originally Posted by Low Saturn

Just went through this with my 2011 SS. Battery tested fine. Even swapped it with a known good battery for a while. Symptoms didn't change. It started OK (or so I thought) when cool, had a hard time after driving a while and the starter got warm/hot. Swapped the starter today and its a day and night difference. Even at a cold start.

1. Lift and securely support the front of the car or drive it up on ramps.
2. Disconnect negative battery cable.
3. Remove the three starter heat shield bolts. (8mm)
4. Remove the heat shield.
5. Unbolt the two starter mounting bolts (13mm) but do not try to remove the starter yet.
6. Rotate the starter to get easier access to the back.
7. Disconnect the electrical connector at the top/back of the starter.
8. Remove the (13mm) nut securing the positive power cable to the starter.
9. Remove the starter.
10. Install in reverse order. I waited to install the heat shield until I tried starting the car in case I did something wrong. Once I verified the car started, I installed the heat shield.

I was going to take pictures and document the whole thing, but I was having a difficult time. Not because of the difficulty of the job, it was actually really easy. I have four hernias that I'm having surgery to repair in a couple weeks, and I was in a lot of discomfort working on the car. So I decided against taking pictures and just get the job done. At least I had my 12 year old son to help. He took care of the heat shield and handed me tools as I needed them.

Here's a video of the car starting with the new starter.
http://youtu.be/tzc1JYx4LHE

BTW, I found a new OEM starter on Amazon for $93.48 with Prime shipping.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

thx Low Saturn, this helped a lot. hope you're surgery went well

[tlk]

Just wanted to thank all who contributed to this thread.

My 2011 2SS LS3 had been cranking slowly lately, especially when the engine is nice and hot (almost to the point of not turning over), suggesting a weak starter or battery. Tried the battery first, nope. Next up was the starter, but I can't ever do anything the easy way, so I opted to upgrade to an aftermarket Powermaster starter instead of a straight swap.

For those who enjoy a challenge like me, the Powermaster model you want is the XS Torque 9509 for LS engines. It's an extremely nice starter and the engine fires up faster than ever now

A couple notes about installation. There's a plastic dust guard that you'll have to remove to install the starter. I hacked mine up and put it mostly back in place after the new starter was mounted. I also have Kooks long tube headers, so the fit was pretty tight. In order to get the starter in and out, I had to disconnect one end of one of the transmission cooler lines. I also ended up having to 'clock' the starter almost 180 degrees out from the position that it shipped in, with the electrical connections facing the block instead of the headers (you'll want to make sure those are well insulated...) Of course, the battery cable connector needs to be replaced with a standard ring lug, and the battery cable itself is now a few inches too short so you'll need to extend it by at least that much. Lastly, the battery cable is a nice stout double ought, so be ready for a fight.

Since heat from the headers is probably what killed my original starter, I wrapped the new starter in a layer of universal starter heat wrap. Fifteen bucks with some steel zip ties from amazon.

[dswells11]

Hate to revive old threads but I am having an issue now on my car... when I go to start it, it takes a bit to turn over and I have the service stabilitrak light on... the whole ride I have small studders that happen here and there and it almost feels as though the car is not as aggressive as it was. My question is, was this happening with any of you that had the starter issue or any of you that had the battery issue?

[h018871]

Originally Posted by dswells11

Hate to revive old threads but I am having an issue now on my car... when I go to start it, it takes a bit to turn over and I have the service stabilitrak light on... the whole ride I have small studders that happen here and there and it almost feels as though the car is not as aggressive as it was. My question is, was this happening with any of you that had the starter issue or any of you that had the battery issue?

when you have low voltage to the computer, one of the first things to show up is the stabilitrack warning, also the tach most likely won't work either. in your case the low voltage is caused by the starter pulling too much current............
causes are most likely: corroded or loose ground/positive connections or the starter is going bad (if it happens when engine is hot), if it happens only on cold starts start with the battery.


i went through a long time of poor starts when hot. i'd clean connections, wrap the starter, go to a high torque model..............it would still come back. slow start when hot and the stabilitrack warning and no tach, let it sit over night and then all good in the morning.
i seem to have a true fix now. i ran a seperate "0" gauge cable directly from the battery to the starter. it now turns over faster than it ever did before. hot and cold starts no problem

[MS7]

Originally Posted by h018871

when you have low voltage to the computer, one of the first things to show up is the stabilitrack warning, also the tach most likely won't work either. in your case the low voltage is caused by the starter pulling too much current............
causes are most likely: corroded or loose ground/positive connections or the starter is going bad (if it happens when engine is hot), if it happens only on cold starts start with the battery.


i went through a long time of poor starts when hot. i'd clean connections, wrap the starter, go to a high torque model..............it would still come back. slow start when hot and the stabilitrack warning and no tach, let it sit over night and then all good in the morning.
i seem to have a true fix now. i ran a seperate "0" gauge cable directly from the battery to the starter. it now turns over faster than it ever did before. hot and cold starts no problem

pls what is the cable part number (separate "0" gauge cable)or the link to buy it

what about this (http://www.ebay.com/itm/191820968297)

[xc_SS/RS]

Originally Posted by MS7

pls what is the cable part number (separate "0" gauge cable)or the link to buy it

You can buy one of those car audio amp power kits that come with that size wire. That's probably your best bet since they'll come with terminals installed and shrink wrapped

Check crutchfield for wires if you can do the terminals yourself

[MS7]

Originally Posted by xc_SS/RS

You can buy one of those car audio amp power kits that come with that size wire. That's probably your best bet since they'll come with terminals installed and shrink wrapped

Check crutchfield for wires if you can do the terminals yourself

thank you

[camguynj]

Originally Posted by Low Saturn

I didn't and the factory service manual doesn't mention having to.

NOTE -there is no negative cable on the starter to disconnect. The negative cable that get disconnected is in the trunk

[Low Saturn]

Originally Posted by camguynj

NOTE -there is no negative cable on the starter to disconnect. The negative cable that get disconnected is in the trunk

That's because it's grounded to the engine.