09-03-2013, 08:05 PM | #1 |
Drives: 2011 Camaro 2ss M6 Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 989
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Which way to go?
I looking into getting gears for my car soon and have been told I need to get some suspension mods to help with wheel hop.
Which way is better to go for now? (plan on doing more but will be a long time from now. Should I just get something like this? http://www.ohio-speed.com/p-880-2010...ars-20104.aspx Or, start doing toe rods, trailing arms, etc......? Thanks! |
09-03-2013, 10:36 PM | #2 |
Drives: 2011 CGM Camaro LS A6 Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 10,305
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Subframe Bushings, Trailing Arms, Tie Rods, and a Good Alignment
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09-04-2013, 12:16 AM | #3 |
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+1
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1 7/8" TSP headers straight piped, Custom Tick Performance cam w/ supporting mods, 1" BMR springs and other BMR suspension mods. Tuned with HPtuners by Matt@FSP
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09-04-2013, 06:38 AM | #4 | |
Drives: 2000 Camaro SS Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Louisville, Ky.
Posts: 25,179
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Quote:
By upgrading the components known to be responsible for the flexing with stronger/stiffer aftermarket units you will lock the rear suspension geometry in place and significantly improve grip and performance. Earlier this year I put together a rear suspension set up for one of our locals that resulted in a 3 tenths improvement over his previous personal best the very first pass he made down the strip. If you have any questions feel free to send me a PM or give us a call. Last edited by Apex Motorsports; 09-04-2013 at 09:07 AM. |
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09-04-2013, 07:58 AM | #5 | |
Drives: 2011 Camaro 2ss M6 Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 989
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Quote:
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09-04-2013, 08:39 AM | #6 |
Drives: 2000 Camaro SS Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Louisville, Ky.
Posts: 25,179
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Which parts specifically to go with depends on a few things.
1) How exactly do you use your car? (street only, street/strip, street/auto-x, etc) 2) How much power do you put down? 3) How much power do you anticipate making in the future? |
09-04-2013, 08:52 AM | #7 | |
Drives: Race Car Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Seffner, FL
Posts: 6,226
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Quote:
Like others have said the real way to eliminate wheel hop is to minimize the movement in the rear end/rear cradle/ rear suspension. Every car is a little different and there are many variables that go into wheel hop so it can take different parts to alleviate wheel hop on different cars. For me to be able to recommend anything to you I would really need to know some details on the car and what your goals are for it. The best thing to do would be to either give me a call here at the shop or shoot me a PM and I can throw some recommendations out to you. Generally these are the parts that are going to make a significant difference in controlling the wheel hop: trailing arms outer trailing arm bushings toe rods rear cradle bushings differential bushings upper control arm bushings A good alignment will also help out quite a bit because it will insure that you have the largest tire contact patch possible which will help make it easier to get the power to the ground. Give me a call and we can definitely get you taken care of. |
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09-04-2013, 09:02 AM | #8 |
Drives: '69 SS Convertible Join Date: May 2009
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 7,111
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Actually, from my experience, the Hotchkis chassis brace will really do very little if anything at all for you. I had one for a while and all I can say is I don't anymore. You can add much better parts for the money.
For me the best thing that killed a majority of my wheel hop was Trailing Arms. Just those alone helped a ton. Cool thing is they are relatively cheap, easy to install, and no alignment necessary. After that I would say that cradle bushings was then next best thing. I could really feel the firmness of the rear. I'm only putting down about 412 rwhp so I just installed the cradle bushing inserts for now. They were cheaper, easier to install, and I can probably sell them for a little money down the road if I ever go full bushing. I suggest Pedders for those. From there you can go to coil overs, rear end bushings, etc. but IMO if you were to just do trailing arms (with bushings) and a set of cradle bushing inserts (if you're in the 500 rwhp range go full bushing) you'll be really surprised at how well that will make a difference.
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-2010 Camaro 2SS | M6 | VR w/White Stripes | 1 3/4" KOOKS - 3" Magnaflow | LPE 3.91 gears | ADM tuned | Halltech w/ADM Scoop | Spohn/BMR Trailing Arm/Toe Rod | BC Coilovers| Pedders FE4 ZL1 swaybars | Cradle/Diff/Radius Rod bushings | VMax TB | Morimoto Projectors | MGW shifter | Red Calipers
Build Journal |
09-04-2013, 10:38 AM | #9 | |
Drives: Varies Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
Posts: 2,182
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Quote:
I really like Pfadt's Stage 3 Kit http://store.pfadtracing.com/camaro-...e-kit-stage-3/ If you want to go all out, their Stage 4 Kit http://store.pfadtracing.com/camaro-...g-kit-stage-4/ JT |
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09-04-2013, 11:41 AM | #10 |
Drives: 2011 Camaro 2ss M6 Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 989
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I'm around 480rwhp right now and 430rwtq. I plan on getting up there in power 700-750hp tops.
It's my daily driver right now an I go to the drag here and there but would like to do the circuit sometime. |
09-04-2013, 12:19 PM | #11 | |
Drives: Race Car Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Seffner, FL
Posts: 6,226
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Quote:
BMR adjustable trailing arms w/ spherical rod ends (TCA033) BMR adjustable toe rods w/ spherical rod ends (TR004) BMR 1" lowering springs (SP019) BMR rear suspension bushing kit (BK021) BMR sway bar kit (SB037) BMR solid delrin rear cradle bushings (BK027) BMR "pro" differential bushings (BK029) If you are interested let me know and we figure out what pricing would be for you on a custom package like this. Kyle |
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09-04-2013, 12:23 PM | #12 |
Drives: 2000 Camaro SS Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Louisville, Ky.
Posts: 25,179
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With that kind of a power goal I would recommend solid rear cradle bushings. Solid is a scary word when it comes to suspension but with the rear cradle you can get away with it, even on daily driver applications. BMR and Pfadt both have great solid rear cradle bushing options. For the kind of use and power you are describing I would probably go with BMR trailing arms and toe rods, just be sure to also order the outer rear trailing arm bushings as they are not included. If you have any questions of would like a quote just hit me up.
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09-04-2013, 01:04 PM | #13 |
Drives: '69 SS Convertible Join Date: May 2009
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 7,111
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ADM Performance has solid rear bushings as well. From what I saw they were the best priced ones out there. It's at least worth you looking at.
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-2010 Camaro 2SS | M6 | VR w/White Stripes | 1 3/4" KOOKS - 3" Magnaflow | LPE 3.91 gears | ADM tuned | Halltech w/ADM Scoop | Spohn/BMR Trailing Arm/Toe Rod | BC Coilovers| Pedders FE4 ZL1 swaybars | Cradle/Diff/Radius Rod bushings | VMax TB | Morimoto Projectors | MGW shifter | Red Calipers
Build Journal |
09-04-2013, 07:09 PM | #14 |
Drives: 2011 Camaro 2ss M6 Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 989
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ill be getting in touch with a couple of you guys. I don't have that much money to spend so I might have to buy parts at a time.
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