10-07-2010, 08:21 AM | #29 |
Drives: 1992 Custom RS, 2006 Civic Join Date: May 2009
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Sorry to hear. Stupid question: Have you tried going back to totally stock to see if you still have the problem? I agree with most, sounds like a warp issue. But the dealer didn't notice a warp? Tough one. I had that same issue on my beater (honda) and swapped out the rotors and all was good. Hope it works out for you.
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10-07-2010, 09:32 AM | #30 | |
OKCamaros
Drives: 4 banger Diesel Join Date: Mar 2010
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Quote:
Ill will try that out! |
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10-07-2010, 04:25 PM | #31 |
OKCamaros
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Shes fixed now! got the rotors resurfaced!
Gunna pick her up in about an hour! thanks for all your opinion and adiveses guys! |
10-07-2010, 04:33 PM | #32 |
Drives: Varies Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
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10-07-2010, 11:00 PM | #33 |
OKCamaros
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10-08-2010, 10:47 AM | #34 |
Drives: Varies Join Date: Dec 2009
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It doesn't matter if they are replaced under warranty if they are not bedded correctly. Bedding new brakes and rotors is a vital part of making the brakes work. Each brake pad, and rotor combination can have a different procedure so its best to check with the manufacturer for recommendations.
http://www.google.com/#hl=en&source=...2ab5d7430ebd84 |
10-08-2010, 03:01 PM | #35 | |
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS M6 Black on Black Join Date: Jan 2010
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Meh
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10-08-2010, 03:06 PM | #36 | |
Drives: Varies Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
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Follow the recommended procedures, and everything should work a lot better together than if you did not bed them in. |
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10-10-2010, 10:46 PM | #37 | |
OKCamaros
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Ill make sure to do this when I get my replacement rotors. The dealer told me that the calipers locked up that caused the rotors to warp. Does that sound right?? |
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10-11-2010, 10:26 AM | #38 |
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Thats pretty much what I was thinking happened.
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10-11-2010, 11:21 AM | #39 | |
Drives: Varies Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
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Quote:
Did the dealer replace the caliper that locked up? |
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10-13-2010, 09:29 AM | #40 |
Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007
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Brakes can be the difference between life and death. Put the OE rotors on and have the OE calipers rebuilt or replaced. Drive the car for at least a few thousand miles to make certain everything is function as it should. Something isn't right and going back to 100% OE will create the least amount of variables to deal with in any additional problems return.
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10-15-2010, 07:15 PM | #41 | |
Drives: Several Join Date: Nov 2009
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Since that rotor is running hotter, it is possible after stopping that the pad is searing onto the disc surface. Most of the time you can see pad "print-off", or a visual image of the pad material outline on the rotor. It almost looks like someone took a pencil and traced around the pad. At this spot (if the rotors are hot enough), carbon molecules will get pulled from the pad and embed into the iron rotor surface to create cementite (a particular molecular lattice structure of iron-based alloy). This spot will now be much harder than the rest of the rotor and will not wear much at all. As time then progresses, the driver will feel brake judder (including steering wheel shimmy if on the front). A tech will measure the runout with the rotors on the car and say "rotors are warped!" They are not actually warped, but the result is nearly the same. It is just that the softer iron has worn and the cementite patch has not, so the dial indicator will sweep back and forth as the tech rotates the disc. So, what happened to your rotors? I dunno. But a good service tech with a lot of brake troubleshooting experience can usually figure it out. Most dealer techs are better trained at just replacing parts until the customer stops complaining. There are exceptions, but those guys typically venture out to open their own shops! Chris |
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10-16-2010, 09:34 AM | #42 | |
OKCamaros
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