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Old 08-21-2013, 09:30 PM   #15
lutey48
 
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Originally Posted by CamaroMike13 View Post
I have installed the same amp you are considering in the factory location with a 10" Infinity sub in vert ******** box. I used the FARK and amp install plate also from ********. The amp has plenty of power for me. I have just purchased JL Audio component speakers to replace the fronts but haven't had the time to install that yet. Overall I'm a very happy with the JL amp and my setup. I also added a remote bass control switch/knob mounted near the cup holder area. That worked out good too.
Which 10" infinity sub is the best or fits best with the sub thump box? Also do you need any reason to switch from 2 ohms to 4 ohms. I just got a new 2013 convertable and the front right speaker already crackles. I had a 2011 convertable, same story on that one too. Took it in for warranty but they said they can't hear it.......whatever. It does it the worst when I have the auto volume set to medium or higher and volume at about 29 or more. Both systems are Boston Acoustic. So I'm guessing getting the speaker replaced on my 2013 is a lost cause also.
Sorry for all the questions but this stearo stuff is all new to me. I guess I'll just start with replacing speakers as money becomes available. Any help would be appreciated! Thank you.
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Old 08-22-2013, 08:56 AM   #16
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I bought the Infinity Reference 1062w 10" sub through Amazon. It was only $58 with free shipping! I'm not going to claim in any way that it was the best as I don't have anything to compare to. It fit perfectly in the ******** box, adds enough bass to my system but not the BOOM, BOOM, that you hear from some cars. I don't care for that. I cant help with the ohm question sorry. The amp replacement was the biggest improvement to the stock BA system IMO. There is enough "tunabilty" to get the power and sound the way you want/like it. I'll post my thoughts on the front speaker replacement once I get the install done. As others have stated it makes a big difference as well.
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Old 08-22-2013, 05:29 PM   #17
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I'm running the 700/5 in the vert with a separate amp for the center channel. It does a fine job if you are ok with not thundering bass for 1/2 the city block.
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Old 08-22-2013, 08:58 PM   #18
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lutey48. i am looking at new 13 vert. i thought those came with 8 inch sub by the back seat. this car is a 2LT with BA system. does it not have seperate amp already with the car. i thought the sound seemed ok during test drive, much better than the lower grade units in 1 LT and coupes dont even come with a sub from factory. thanks
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Old 08-22-2013, 09:33 PM   #19
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lutey48. i am looking at new 13 vert. i thought those came with 8 inch sub by the back seat. this car is a 2LT with BA system. does it not have seperate amp already with the car. i thought the sound seemed ok during test drive, much better than the lower grade units in 1 LT and coupes dont even come with a sub from factory. thanks
Don't get me wrong...... The sound is great and does have an amp and a sub. I just can't keep the front right door speaker from distorting or crackling or what ever the heck it's doing. It only does it when I'm going down the road and auto volume set at medium or higher. By the time I drag a repair person around long enough to convince him something is wrong. I could have replaced the whole f.....g system!! So I'm looking at replacing front speakers anyway and looking for something better for the car as a whole !!
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Old 08-23-2013, 02:42 PM   #20
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I'm running the 700/5 in the vert with a separate amp for the center channel. It does a fine job if you are ok with not thundering bass for 1/2 the city block.
Doesn't the 700/5 have a channel for a sub already? Or isn't it powerful enough to run a sub. Like I say this is all new to me.
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Old 08-23-2013, 07:37 PM   #21
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700/5 has the sub isolated...plenty powerful for me
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Old 08-23-2013, 08:59 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lutey48 View Post
Doesn't the 700/5 have a channel for a sub already? Or isn't it powerful enough to run a sub. Like I say this is all new to me.
the "/5" on any jl amp means it drives a sub, and front and rear speakers
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Old 08-23-2013, 09:05 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by lutey48 View Post
Which 10" infinity sub is the best or fits best with the sub thump box? Also do you need any reason to switch from 2 ohms to 4 ohms. I just got a new 2013 convertable and the front right speaker already crackles. I had a 2011 convertable, same story on that one too. Took it in for warranty but they said they can't hear it.......whatever. It does it the worst when I have the auto volume set to medium or higher and volume at about 29 or more. Both systems are Boston Acoustic. So I'm guessing getting the speaker replaced on my 2013 is a lost cause also.
Sorry for all the questions but this stearo stuff is all new to me. I guess I'll just start with replacing speakers as money becomes available. Any help would be appreciated! Thank you.
If you run 2 ohm speakers the amp puts out more power. With the JL XD700/5 - at 2 ohms you get 300 watts for the sub at 4 ohms you get 180 ohms.
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Old 08-24-2013, 06:07 PM   #24
lutey48
 
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If you run 2 ohm speakers the amp puts out more power. With the JL XD700/5 - at 2 ohms you get 300 watts for the sub at 4 ohms you get 180 ohms.
So is it better to wire the sub for 2 ohm or 4 ohm? Also what sub do you think would be the best? I usually listen to heavy rock like 5FDP. I'm thinking about the
Reference 1062w

10" Dual Voice Coil Subwoofer with a pair of 40oz magnets delivers distortion free low and and extracts maximum power from mono subwoofer amplifers.
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Old 08-27-2013, 05:33 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by lutey48 View Post
So is it better to wire the sub for 2 ohm or 4 ohm? Also what sub do you think would be the best? I usually listen to heavy rock like 5FDP. I'm thinking about the
Reference 1062w

10" Dual Voice Coil Subwoofer with a pair of 40oz magnets delivers distortion free low and and extracts maximum power from mono subwoofer amplifers.
Good questions - I hope someone with more expertice on audio could answer your questions.
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