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Old 06-06-2013, 12:57 PM   #15
se7en

 
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Originally Posted by Rob Grant View Post
650 fly wheel hp and the weather was hot, around 32c and I had let the car sit for an hour between each run. When I put the line lock on and then did my burnout, the computer screen say service stabilizer and seems to shut off the traction control and nannys. Even if I shut off traction control and stabilizer before I burnout, the screen says the same thing. I thought maybe the computer was shutting down on the power for some reason. What is the best air pressure for my 18' slicks ( hoosier) ?
Thanks for all your info and I want to be able to give the car a good run.
Not at all... this is normal and will not result in any power loss. There are so many things that come into play, but do you have more runs and all of them look similar? Tire pressure for drag racing, slicks vary (weight of the car, power of course, track temp, track condition) most of the time. Hoosier will tell you that for a stock weigh camaro between 14/16, but my car likes 17 psi on one track and 15 on another. All depends.

I would say the DA is getting a lot of your power. (did you drive the car there, was the engine kept hot... all this comes into play as your computer will pull timing as it heats up and power loss with climb).

Put a nice converter in the car and watch it come alive
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Old 06-14-2013, 10:25 PM   #16
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I ran tonight again at the track
60- 1.982
ET 8.071
MPH 92.14
slick were at 18 pounds
I think I will drop the air down to 14 pounds next week.
Any idea what I can do on the cheap side under $3000 to get in the MPH @ 97 ??

Will Skinny's help on the front ? ( running stock rims and tire on Front and weld rims and Hoosiers on rear)

Rear gears are 3.70 posi

Headers,axle shafts and supercharger from SLP is all I have done to the car.
Jannetty did the rear and gears.

It would be nice to get my 60 lower.
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Old 06-15-2013, 11:30 AM   #17
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I think before you start throwing money at the car, you should step back and think on this. If you look at the slip I posted above, your car is low mph in the 1/8 and the ET should be lower I think. IMO....

1) Make sure you are not running with TCS on
2) Make sure your car is shifting at the right rpms for your combo, maybe some quicker blowered guys can suggest what they use.
3) Your short times should be at least 1.8's. Make sure you are getting real heat into those tires, and make sure you are lining up in the groove. Are you spinning or does it dead hook? You need to know.
4) Fix whatever is not right. Go back. Repeat.
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Old 06-16-2013, 08:56 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Pro Stock John View Post
I think before you start throwing money at the car, you should step back and think on this. If you look at the slip I posted above, your car is low mph in the 1/8 and the ET should be lower I think. IMO....

1) Make sure you are not running with TCS on
2) Make sure your car is shifting at the right rpms for your combo, maybe some quicker blowered guys can suggest what they use.
3) Your short times should be at least 1.8's. Make sure you are getting real heat into those tires, and make sure you are lining up in the groove. Are you spinning or does it dead hook? You need to know.
4) Fix whatever is not right. Go back. Repeat.
100% agree.
You have an issue that you need to sort out. Sometimes it's not always as easy as "buy parts, run fast".
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Old 06-24-2013, 08:32 AM   #19
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I agree with everything that's the been said so far. Careful mixing those tires as someone has pointed out, can be pretty dangerous.

I think there's more on the table with some tuning and a CAI kit. Approx. 30-40 RWHP.
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Old 06-24-2013, 09:15 AM   #20
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1.98 on slicks? Track suck? That 60 is very weak for a slick. I just went 1.66 on 18" Nittos.
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12.37@112 1.85 | + Kooks Headers/Cats + 20" 555R + CAI + BW TB + UDP + Tune
12.06@113 1.70 | + CD 3200 + 18" NT05R + RCR Intake + NE OTR + GPI Tune
11.84@115 1.59 | + 3.91s + Race Star 17x7 Fronts
10.90@125 1.47 | + GPI VVT Cam + BW Ported Heads + CD 3800
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Old 06-24-2013, 09:22 AM   #21
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I agree with PSJ and everyone else on this one.

I know how fustrating it can be to try and get the time that you want. But the real trick is mastering the setup that you have before taking the next step or buying new stuff. I thank PSJ for really highlighting that for me.

Yes you could probably invest more money into the car and make it faster then what it is now, but you would still be leaving the possibility for improvement on the table.

Focus on practicing and getting that 60ft down. I too ran a 1.72 on 18" drag radials -with stock gear, stock suspension,and stock rear end... so you with slicks should be able to get numbers even lower then that. So i see that as the biggest area of opportunity right now. Don't look at any other number on that time slip until you get the 60ft down. It took me several trips and passes at the track to lower my 60ft. I started at 1.9x's and now have the right feel for the launch to where i am confident now. Thats all it takes is more seat time really.

just my .02's
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Old 06-25-2013, 01:18 PM   #22
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As said above, find out what is going on at the launch. With slicks the 60' should be much better. I'm cutting 1.6's on 18" hoosier drs with only 3.23 gears so there's more left in your combo as it sits. If your not spinning is it bogging? Computer pulling timing (car falls on its face)? Find out what's wrong now before putting more money in it or it will only frustrate you worse
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Old 06-25-2013, 01:52 PM   #23
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14# in a slick on a 4k# car is a bad idea. Especially with radials out front. 17-18 is fine. No need to go lower than that. If it doesn't hook then adjust your burnout.
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Old 07-10-2013, 01:20 PM   #24
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Quote:
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Stock converter?

Here is an example of another car, a Convertible, small cam, stock converter, full exhaust on 22's:
Nice reaction time????
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