11-27-2011, 05:02 PM | #1 |
Drives: 2010 ''RS1'' my own package Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Concord NC
Posts: 237
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wire tap connectors
does anyone know where i can get some wire connectors like the ones that come with the Hurst Shifter automatic kit????? they call them wire taps
sure could use some, thanks for any help
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2010 1LT A6, Hurst shifter and handle, 3pc rear spoiler, streetscene splitter, ss front end with ZL1 grill, ABL , footwell and cup holder lighting, ss cat back exhaust, Eibach lowering springs, custom engine cover, 4pk gauges, speedhut A pilliar pod and gauges, metra kit and kenwood stereo, 2014 ss hood scoop with stock rain tray, 3D Carbon fender vents, rear lighted bowtie, and ultra gauge.
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11-27-2011, 05:11 PM | #2 |
Drives: 2010 2ss/RS 4l80. 2009 2500 HD Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Mid MO
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Any auto parts store should carry them.
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11-27-2011, 05:12 PM | #3 |
Drives: 2011 Camaro LS Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: NJ
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are t taps (what I assume the OP is talking about) as reliable as using those male/femal connectors? Im looking to hardwire my radar detector and I figured itd be easier using these t taps instead of trying to splice wires etc.
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11-27-2011, 05:16 PM | #4 |
Drives: 2010 2ss/RS 4l80. 2009 2500 HD Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Mid MO
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Sodering and shrink wrap is the best... But T-tap connector will work!
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11-27-2011, 07:08 PM | #5 |
Drives: 2011 Synergy Green Camaro LT Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Lakeland, FL
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We use t-taps all the time. Just make sure you use the correct size/color with the correct size wire. with oem wires you'll use the 16/18ga red ones just about every time.
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11-27-2011, 08:56 PM | #6 |
Drives: 2012 45th 2LT/RS Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Nashville, TN (Antioch/La Vergne)
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The ones the OP is referring to, aren't t-taps. I have the Hurst kit and I know the ones you're talking about. I've actually never seen that kind anywhere else before, and I've never seen them for sale anywhere either.
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11-27-2011, 09:53 PM | #7 |
Drives: 2011 Synergy Green Camaro LT Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Lakeland, FL
Posts: 830
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Oh, just looked it up. Come to think of it I dont think i've ever seen those for sale in any of my distributors product books either. I have used them before but they came with something I was installing. I dont even know what theyre called.
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11-28-2011, 06:51 AM | #8 | |
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Quote:
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11-28-2011, 07:30 AM | #9 |
Drives: 2011 Synergy Green Camaro LT Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Lakeland, FL
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I cant copy it b/c its in a PDF on a website, but heres the link. Then click on installation instructions and the taps are right at the beginning of the pdf
http://www.phastekperformance.com/Hu...ter-auto-1.htm |
11-28-2011, 08:37 AM | #10 |
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11-28-2011, 09:17 AM | #11 | |
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Quote:
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12-01-2011, 05:02 PM | #12 |
Drives: 2010 ''RS1'' my own package Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Concord NC
Posts: 237
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thanks for everybody's help, that posi-tap is what im looking for.
__________________
2010 1LT A6, Hurst shifter and handle, 3pc rear spoiler, streetscene splitter, ss front end with ZL1 grill, ABL , footwell and cup holder lighting, ss cat back exhaust, Eibach lowering springs, custom engine cover, 4pk gauges, speedhut A pilliar pod and gauges, metra kit and kenwood stereo, 2014 ss hood scoop with stock rain tray, 3D Carbon fender vents, rear lighted bowtie, and ultra gauge.
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12-01-2011, 10:17 PM | #13 |
Drives: 2012 45th Anniv 2SS Conv Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Arlington, TX
Posts: 31
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In a previous life, I worked in several car audio shops using many different types of connectors. T-taps were by far the least reliable of all. I personally prefer solder and tape over all the other options because it has a secure long lasting connection. I'm not saying that other options aren't better for certain situations but in an environment like a car that bounces around a lot, certain connections should probably be avoided. Good crimping techniques are perfectly acceptable and in some ways, just as reliable as soldering. Just use some common sense..
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