11-14-2014, 08:59 AM | #29 | |
Obsessed
Drives: 2016 Hyper Blue 2SS RS Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Riverview, FL
Posts: 2,603
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Trust me, it WILL get too cold to hand wash. No doubt about it.
I keep mine in top shape as well, and am picky as hell, see my license plate? The only coin wash that comes to mind is in Manassas. Come January and February I cannot imagine washing by hand outside. There is a place in South Riding called Main Street Wash that hand washes well. Hell, you could probably bring your own mitt or sponge and towels. Let me know if you need any info on the area. Jim Quote:
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2016 Hyper Blue 2SS |
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11-14-2014, 09:46 AM | #30 | ||
Drives: a few Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Colorado
Posts: 507
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In terms of the altruistic movement to save everyone money - I don't see the validity there? A true rinse-free concentrate actually offers consumers excellent value as compared to alternative cleaning methods given the low cost per oz of a product in that range and the number of high dilution uses it has beyond the simple bucket wash. Clay lube, wipe down spray, adding lubricity to a wash solution, drying agent, etc. Not to mention the fact that unlike a traditional soap, the rinse free mixture can be used days later and repeatedly when going with the multiple towel approach (garry dean method) unlike a traditional soap which once the foaming agents have been expended won't allow for a secondary use. The argument could be made that NOT offering a rinse-less concentrate would costing customers money as they need to purchase various products to fill these needs when one could arguably perform a number of tasks. Will rinseless/waterless products ever replace traditional washes in 100% of situations? Absolutely not, but like most any category in this business there are a few ways to approach the same problem and as long as the user understands what choice makes sense in a situation or is at least armed with the information to evaluate vehicle surfaces and make an educated decision there is room for both in every persons collection. For example my C/10 NEVER (and I mean NEVER) sees a drop of water - rain, hose, or otherwise. It spends its days in the garage and is driven purely for pleasure. It sees wipe downs with diluted rinse-free wash regularly, in the event it gets really dusty it gets a rinse-free bucket wash. I'd have absolutely no use at all for a pre soak, foam wash, or anything of that nature. Doesn't mean those are 'bad' products, just that they don't suit any need I have when it comes to cleaning my truck. On the other hand, my daily driven CRV sits outside... gets filthy and sees lots of miles. A traditional hose and bucket wash makes more sense for that most of the time. Not trying to start an argument with you, SF has their opinion on that type of product and thats commendable. Stick to it and don't offer one, but as someone who has been neck deep in this business for a long time I'm just going to have to respectfully disagree with your assessment of those product categories. Back to the OP - one other thing to consider, that I had to learn after moving from SoCal to Colorado a few years ago - is that even warm water for traditional washes will get cold in a hurry when washing outside in winter weather, leaving you with bright red, sore, frozen hands. Look online at scuba supply stores for a set of diving gloves. you can find ones that will come up high past your wrist to keep water out and are perfect for washing. They'll keep your hands from freezing. Being a certified diver I used the gloves I already had for winter washing and it helps a TON! These aren't the exact ones I have, but similar: http://www.scuba.com/scuba-gear-27/1...Gloves-...html
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1967 C/10 PROJECT TRUCK | DETAILING EXPERT | CRAFT BEER ENTHUSIAST Last edited by DylanVK; 11-14-2014 at 11:28 AM. |
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11-14-2014, 10:21 AM | #31 | |
Drives: a few Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Colorado
Posts: 507
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While a waterless wash can potentially use a small percentage of wax for lubrication purposes its not designed to be deposited to the surface in the same way a wax based quick detailer is. A true waterless should leave very little, if any measurable film behind, while a quick detailer is, by design typically going to deposit something - for gloss, water beading, or even filling purposes depending on the product. The same can be said for 'polymer' based quick detailers - typically they'll be depositing a small amount of silicone on the surface leading to a darker, glossy appearance, and some amount of filling on swirls/scratches. Polymer use in a waterless product is primarily for surface lubrication among other things and again, if properly formulated should minimize or eliminate any film deposits. Truth be told most waterless products have more in common chemically with glass cleaners than they do with quick detailers as on glass you want decent evap points and minimal film deposit... but what do I know
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1967 C/10 PROJECT TRUCK | DETAILING EXPERT | CRAFT BEER ENTHUSIAST Last edited by DylanVK; 11-14-2014 at 10:37 AM. |
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11-14-2014, 12:20 PM | #32 |
5:30 somewhere
Drives: 2015 Mustang GT Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Pensacola,florida
Posts: 334
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I use Adams waterless wash to remove bugs. Works great. I have no idea whats in it. But it sure does disolve bug and bird crap fast. Just seems to me to work better than QD. As far as washing without a hose. I would get an electric pressure washer with a hose attached to a five gallon bucket.
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11-14-2014, 12:46 PM | #33 | |
Drives: Black 14 2SS/1LE/RS 14 Tundra Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Plymouth, Ma
Posts: 2,414
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11-14-2014, 05:21 PM | #34 |
5:30 somewhere
Drives: 2015 Mustang GT Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Pensacola,florida
Posts: 334
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11-14-2014, 06:40 PM | #35 | |
Drives: 2015 BVM Camaro 1LE (2SS/RS) Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Leesburg, VA
Posts: 971
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In my opinion, the huge kicker in favor of this setup versus just the rinseless wash is with a setup like this you can actually get water pressure to clean the areas getting hit the hardest by the grime....UNDER THE CAR. Sure this one might not be best for everyone. If you have a coin op power wash station a few minutes from your house, I'm sure you are best off driving a few minutes down the road and paying $2.50 for some water. For people with out that option, I see few good alternatives. Last edited by Turbo_J89; 11-14-2014 at 07:00 PM. |
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11-14-2014, 07:06 PM | #36 |
Drives: Black 14 2SS/1LE/RS 14 Tundra Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Plymouth, Ma
Posts: 2,414
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you can calculate the size tank you will need by the power washer they always rate there gallons per minute that should give you an idea of size for how many minutes of spray time you want/need.
2.5 gallon per minute washer 15 minute of spraying time = 37.5 gallons |
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