03-19-2012, 05:08 PM | #1 |
Need help deciding on BMR suspension.
So I'm up to 3 separate occasions where I've had part failures in my driveline that were caused by some type of wheelhop. After this I'm sidelining my plans for a new cam and wheels, and using the funds to do some suspension work. I've decided on going with BMR because of their large selection of parts, and that pretty much everything they make is adjustable. The first thing that I'm wanting to do to my car is install the Pro Version Total Suspension Bushing Kit. After this install, it will be a few weeks until I can get to installing the BMR adjustable trailing arms and toe rods and I was wondering if having all those stiffer bushings might cause any failures or bad bends in the stock trailing arms or else were?
After going with toe rods and trailing arms what would be next best step to take? Not sure between the adjustable lower control arm (is it adjustable for stock height?), sway bars and end links, or chassis sub-frame brace, if that would even be necessary at that point. Also gonna throw in a front tower brace and lower it at some point in time. With all that extra hardware stiffening up my suspension, is that gonna cause any excess strain on my driveline (stock for now), particularly my axles and driveshaft bolts, during a hard launch? Sorry about all the questions, just trying to make sure I get everything right. Any help is appreciated! Thanks!
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2010 1SS/RS, muffler delete, K&N cold air intake, too be continued....... |
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03-19-2012, 06:03 PM | #2 |
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Drives: 2012 Camaro RS, RX supercharged Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Bradenton, FL
Posts: 6,063
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Call BMR and ask for Kyle.....he is the Gen4 & 5 Camaro specialist & can tell you all you need to know. BMR makes good stuff period.
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03-19-2012, 07:13 PM | #3 |
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03-19-2012, 07:17 PM | #4 |
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Drives: 89 IROC 350 Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Back roads, southern Ohio
Posts: 12,504
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I have all BMR stuff. Couldn't be happier!
Springs Sways End links Toes Trailings Bushings Strut brace Car never ever wheel hops. on them to make engine mounts... Sent while on baby duty.... please sleep |
03-19-2012, 07:51 PM | #5 |
www.1baddogracing.com
Drives: 2010 IOM 2SS/RS Auto Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Indian Land, SC
Posts: 998
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I agree with contacting Kyle as he can point you in the right direction. Here is my list of BMR parts:
BMR Trailing Arms with Spherical Bearings BMR Bolt On Subframe Connectors BMR Drive Shaft Tunnel Brace BMR Driveshaft Safety Loop BMR Swaybar Endlink Kit (Front and Rear) BMR Tubular Sway Bars With Poly Bushings (Front & Rear Set) BMR Rear Cradle Bushing Kit, Pro Version BMR End Link Mounting Brace, Rear Lower Control Arm BMR Adjustable Toe Rods w/ Rod Ends BMR Adjustable LCA (on their way)
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2010 Camaro 2SS/RS Aqua Blue Metalllic (bolt-ons)
2020 Camaro 2SS/RS Satin Steel Metallic - Shock and Steel Edition 1 of 98 - A10 (bolt-ons) 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS IOM - 1,023 RWHP 813RWTQ (Previous Paxton Record Holder: 9.82@139) Built and Tuned by Heintz Racing Go: DSS 9", RPM Trans TH400, Carlyle Racing 15" Conversion, ECS Vortech YSI-B, Fore Fuel System, ID1700, Gall Racing 427 C.I LSX, Mast 285CC Heads, HR Custom Cam Show: Custom Painted Stripes/Badges (Orange Pearl over White), Z/TA Spoiler, VFN Hood, Weld Wheels http://www.HeintzRacing.com http://www.youtube.com/user/1baddogracing |
03-20-2012, 09:23 AM | #6 | |
Drives: Race Car Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Seffner, FL
Posts: 6,226
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Quote:
Justin you definitely have the right idea as far as suspension and chasssis mods go . The "pro" full bushing kit is always a good idea. It will get rid of the crappy deflection-prone rubber bushings and allow better control over suspension and rear cradle movement. Doing the bushing kit will give you a solid base to work with and build up from. The trailing arms and toe rods are some of the first parts I recommend for people to help control and cure the wheel hop issues the Camaros have. These two parts really make a big difference by replacing the flimsy stamped steel stock parts with soft rubber busihngs with our BMR parts that are much beefier and that use stiffer poly-urethane bushings. The adjustable lower control arms would be something I would do down the road because the sway bars/end links and the subframe connectors and tunnel brace will be more important at this point in time for you. Now installing our parts won't add any extra strain to the drivetrain components but that doesn't mean there isn't a chance for them to break down the road when you are making more power. Since you have an automatic car you shouldn't have any issues with the drivetrain parts till you start making quite a bit more power. Automatics are generally quite a bit easier on the suspension/chassis/drivetrain than the manual transmissions since they dont shock the parts as hard. Give me a call here at the shop and we could definitely get you what you need and go over a complete setup for your car. You may want to do more parts or less depending on your budget but either way we can get you taken care of and be within your budget. |
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03-20-2012, 07:12 PM | #7 |
Sorry I'm just now getting around to replying. Thanks everyone for all the info and Kyle I'll definitely give you a call tomorrow if I can find time in between my classes.
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2010 1SS/RS, muffler delete, K&N cold air intake, too be continued....... |
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03-20-2012, 07:21 PM | #8 |
Drives: 625 rwhp red jewel ss COTW 11-8-10 Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Abilene, Texas
Posts: 824
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Justin,
You need to get it running good so you can drive it to caimaro fest 3 for sure thi summer! Got three of us from abilene going for sure right now!
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03-20-2012, 07:31 PM | #9 |
Justin, if you have the money set aside for a cam, I would suggest saving a couple bucks over buying parts seprately and purchasing the Stage 3 BMR suspension kit. It is gonna come everything you need except rear LCAs, Toe rods and Trailing arms. If I remember correctly the kit ran me about $1500, got it from a vendor on this forum.
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2011 IBM 2SS/RS - LS3/M6 - Grey Interior
Full bolt-ons + TSP 229/236, 112 LSA Tuned by STARKWEATHER PERFORMANCE BMR Stage 3 suspension MRR 288 - 20x10(+35), 20x11(+43) |
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03-21-2012, 11:30 AM | #10 |
Haha I'm trying too but I have so much going on with this car right now it's ridiculous. On top of Chevy doing warranty work right now, I'm also trying to get my insurance company to fix some paint and body damage (some of which was already very poorly "fixed" by a collision shop here), from 3 hit and runs in parking lots, another hit in a parking lot while I was sitting in my car, and paintball damage all over my car that some punks did one night. So IF I can get all of this sorted out and get my car looking good again, then I definitely wanna try and go.
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2010 1SS/RS, muffler delete, K&N cold air intake, too be continued....... |
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03-21-2012, 01:03 PM | #11 |
Drives: Race Car Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Seffner, FL
Posts: 6,226
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It was good talking to you Justin, if there is anything else I can help you out with give me a call or shoot me a PM.
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Tags |
axle, bmr, driveshaft, ls3, suspension |
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