Amp install- how to (w/pics)

[Steve@Subthump]

Originally Posted by ASTEDA

I didn't see any pictures other than a picture of the amp, Steve... so it's not been "detailed" to anyone unless they pay for your kit.

However, $60.00 is a pretty good price for the kit for someone who is starting from scratch ($9.00 for shipping is a bit much, IMO), but for the people who already have the equipment it ain't doing much to help.

It's much better than saying 'read the second stickey and figure it our yourself'. A lot of new Camaro owners are not on these forums and don't have these resources. We wanted an affordable product to offer to our customers that gives them everything they need to install their amp and I wrote up instructions on how to do it quickly and easily. I don't see any fault in that or why you're being so critical.

If everyone went out and paid $30 for the output adapter like you did AND bought their Amp kit on top of that, they would easily spend more than what our whole kit costs delivered to their door. Most guys are getting their box AND the kit at the same time. We pack the kit inside the box so the kit essentially ships for free. If you are that worried about shipping costs, then you should stick to paying more locally. IE That pac unit from us is only 20 bux.

I agree that many of the hard core diyer's that want to decipher the wiring diagram and buy their own gear probably don't need our kits and I am certianly okay with that. However, looking at the wires you used for your install, you didn't even do it right so I dunno if you should be the one telling everyone how to do this or not. If they want to do it the right way then they have another option which is to get one of our kits.

[Tecca]

I would highly recommend the kit from Steve, although I didn't use any of the wiring. However the instructions were well written and the T-taps are friggen sweet. Took about 10 minutes to install the PAC, no splicing needed which was awesome.

[ASTEDA]

Originally Posted by Steve@********

It's much better than saying 'read the second stickey and figure it our yourself'. A lot of new Camaro owners are not on these forums and don't have these resources. We wanted an affordable product to offer to our customers that gives them everything they need to install their amp and I wrote up instructions on how to do it quickly and easily. I don't see any fault in that or why you're being so critical.

If everyone went out and paid $30 for the output adapter like you did AND bought their Amp kit on top of that, they would easily spend more than what our whole kit costs delivered to their door. Most guys are getting their box AND the kit at the same time. We pack the kit inside the box so the kit essentially ships for free. If you are that worried about shipping costs, then you should stick to paying more locally. IE That pac unit from us is only 20 bux.

I agree that many of the hard core diyer's that want to decipher the wiring diagram and buy their own gear probably don't need our kits and I am certianly okay with that. However, looking at the wires you used for your install, you didn't even do it right so I dunno if you should be the one telling everyone how to do this or not. If they want to do it the right way then they have another option which is to get one of our kits.

LOL! Now I didn't do it right!

Steve, my install works just fine for $40.00 less than your kit. But hey, if you want to bash my install to make your business look good, more power to you.

[Steve@Subthump]

Originally Posted by ASTEDA

LOL! Now I didn't do it right!

Steve, my install works just fine for $40.00 less than your kit. But hey, if you want to bash my install to make your business look good, more power to you.

If it works for you, that's all that matters. I am not bashing, just observing and wondering. The guys making fun of your duct tape wiring are bashing. Not me. I am just wondering why you would take an amplified signal and amplify it again. I would think someone who's done this for 15 years would want to use the pre-amp signal to get the cleanest signal possible instead of tapping into the noise infested amplified outputs for the signal.

And where are you getting your numbers from anyhow? I'm curious. My kit is $59. You get the output adapter, ground cable, power cable, RCA wire, Turn on wire, speaker wire, ends, connectors and instructions. ALL for only $59. That is an awesome deal and I'm certainly not making tons off them. If you spent $40 less than our kit, that means you got your adapter AND all your wiring, etc for $19? You already said your adapter was $30, so that doesn't add up. You may have wiring lying around, but not everyone is so lucky. Most guys will have to pay for this and if they buy all their components separately, there is no way they can beat our kit pricewise--especially if they buy from a couple different places and have to pay multiple shipping charges to get everything delivered they need. Not that the numbers matter as I sense some animosity against what we are trying to do for our customers.

[LS3SSRS]

Steve, what wires are spliced into the line out converter then? Ones before the amp? What colors?

[third1]

Steve I am woundering if anyone really looked at the wiring sticky.I hooked into to the sub outs before the amp on the BA and have tons of bass. With the business you are in you should see this it is not that complicated. Tell me if I did somthing wrong. I have a sh&t load of bass with 200 watts ????

[JDBeck23]

Originally Posted by third1

Steve I am woundering if anyone really looked at the wiring sticky.I hooked into to the sub outs before the amp on the BA and have tons of bass. With the biusness you are in you should see this it is not that complicated. Tell me if I did somthing wrong. I have a sh&t load of bass with 200 watts ????

Apparently Steve is under the impression that the OP hooked in AFTER the amp... since both sets of wires are very close to one another... Im guessing. Just a third party point of view here. If you hooked in before the amp, then you did it right, and should have nice clean base.

[KTCAM]

I agree with Teccboxx & Steve @ ******** as well The install took me about 4-5 hours to get “everything just right”. The kit from Steves makes it extremely easy & in plain English w/ photos. You cant go wrong with his kit. And as far as the cost it beats trying to get them from different places w/shipping or even here locally in Houston with taxes & all . Also once I installed the truck mat that sub box aint gonna move. I sat in the trunck & “pushed” the box with my legs & feet to get a tight fit without having to anchor it to anything
Here is my setup

[Steve@Subthump]

Love those grilles. They look badass. I painted some kicker grilles and installed them on mine. I Can't tell, but are those cvrs under there?

Okay, here's newer pics of my subs and one of the amp cover I made

[IMG]http://www.********.com/images/camaro/5th%20gen/5g-212grilles.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://www.********.com/images/camaro/5th%20gen/amp5.jpg[/IMG]

We might offer the cover as an option or an entire amp rack if we get enough interest.

[Steve@Subthump]

Originally Posted by JDBeck23

Apparently Steve is under the impression that the OP hooked in AFTER the amp... since both sets of wires are very close to one another... Im guessing. Just a third party point of view here. If you hooked in before the amp, then you did it right, and should have nice clean base.

I am. In the pic below you can see the loc is wired to green and blue wires and are twisted. The only wires that are green and blue and twisted are the ones coming out of the amp at the the power plug. Those are the ones powering the 6x9s. Anyone can trace those and hook up a loc to them. Whereas the input wires (ie before the amp straight from the HU) are mostly tans and browns. There's on blue, but no green. Finding these takes more work, but my kit explains which ones they are and which wires on the loc to hook to each. I know you will get cleaner bass using the pre-amp singal than a post-amp signal. The factory BA amp looks like a piece of crap, so I would not want to amplify any signal coming out of it and feed to to my speakers. Just my .02

[KTCAM]

Originally Posted by Steve@********

Love those grilles. They look badass. I painted some kicker grilles and installed them on mine. I Can't tell, but are those cvrs under there?

Okay, here's newer pics of my subs and one of the amp cover I made

[IMG]http://www.********.com/images/camaro/5th%20gen/5g-212grilles.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://www.********.com/images/camaro/5th%20gen/amp5.jpg[/IMG]

We might offer the cover as an option or an entire amp rack if we get enough interest.

yep....and I paired it a soundstream amp

[KTCAM]

i like the design cutout .... but how about some type of box off to the side of the trunk to show off the amp?

[Yellow2010]

I recently added an amp and sub in my everyday ride. I put a switch on the dash to turn the amp on and off, so when my kids are riding with me. Has anyone done anything like that yet? If so, where did you mount the switch. Thanks

[ASTEDA]

Originally Posted by Steve@********

I am. In the pic below you can see the loc is wired to green and blue wires and are twisted. The only wires that are green and blue and twisted are the ones coming out of the amp at the the power plug. Those are the ones powering the 6x9s. Anyone can trace those and hook up a loc to them. Whereas the input wires (ie before the amp straight from the HU) are mostly tans and browns. There's on blue, but no green. Finding these takes more work, but my kit explains which ones they are and which wires on the loc to hook to each. I know you will get cleaner bass using the pre-amp singal than a post-amp signal. The factory BA amp looks like a piece of crap, so I would not want to amplify any signal coming out of it and feed to to my speakers. Just my .02

I had the same subs and amp in my old ride- hooked up to the pre-amp on an Alpine head unit... and they sound better now coming out of the BA amp than they did before. A signal is a signal. If you use shitty equipment to filter that signal you'll get a shitty sound no matter where the signal originates from. Sorry to tell you this, Steve, but my bass is crisp and clear.