First Trip to 1/4 Strip HELP!!!!!!!

[freemaSSon]

LOADING THE CONVERTER causes the trans to SUPER HEAT at the line and WASTES the stored energy in the converter.

The best way to launch an automatic car off a FOOT BRAKE is to "FLASH THE CONVERTER"

Stge short meaning stop as soon as the second stage light is on. Idle the RPM's up to about 1100-1200 and stomp the gas pedal on the 2econd yellow light but HOLD THE BRAKE PEDAL DOWN for just a fraction after to FLASH the converter. This technique takes some getting use to but it works. I consistantly got my Trailblazer SS that was 4800+ lbs. with me in it to 1.6X 60'. A converter will make all the difference in the world and a set of drag radials will as well. As more and more of us make it to the track we will ALL be moving to smaller diameter wheels and Drag Radials for traction.

I APPLAUD YOUR UNDERTAKING STAY AT IT. The "FLASH" technique is the only way. I was taught this from a converter builder when I was building my TBSS. It works PERIOD.




As far as the time I would bet money her time is dead on. If it was a very low pressure in the area combined with the humidity and air temps her corrected times will fall right in line as I expect. Has anyone calculated the realtive DA she was racing in. This air thing will kick your ass at the track. our range in North Texas is from Winter DA close to 0 and Summer DA as high as 4000. The poor folks in CO are the real losers with the air crap.

Someone post up the location and I'll get the weather data and run corrections.

Post all the time slip data for me.

60'
1/8 mile ET and Speed
1/4 mile ET and Speed

[Ltdodge]

its in bithlo, florida.

it was very hot and humid that night. her 1st run was around 9:00 pm or so

[ThisChicksGotAYellow2SS]

I did the DA adjustment. It was 14.3s... so a diff, just not what anyone expects out of my car. Posting the slips now. Thanks

Originally Posted by freemaSSon

LOADING THE CONVERTER causes the trans to SUPER HEAT at the line and WASTES the stored energy in the converter.

The best way to launch an automatic car off a FOOT BRAKE is to "FLASH THE CONVERTER"

Stge short meaning stop as soon as the second stage light is on. Idle the RPM's up to about 1100-1200 and stomp the gas pedal on the 2econd yellow light but HOLD THE BRAKE PEDAL DOWN for just a fraction after to FLASH the converter. This technique takes some getting use to but it works. I consistantly got my Trailblazer SS that was 4800+ lbs. with me in it to 1.6X 60'. A converter will make all the difference in the world and a set of drag radials will as well. As more and more of us make it to the track we will ALL be moving to smaller diameter wheels and Drag Radials for traction.

I APPLAUD YOUR UNDERTAKING STAY AT IT. The "FLASH" technique is the only way. I was taught this from a converter builder when I was building my TBSS. It works PERIOD.




As far as the time I would bet money her time is dead on. If it was a very low pressure in the area combined with the humidity and air temps her corrected times will fall right in line as I expect. Has anyone calculated the realtive DA she was racing in. This air thing will kick your ass at the track. our range in North Texas is from Winter DA close to 0 and Summer DA as high as 4000. The poor folks in CO are the real losers with the air crap.

Someone post up the location and I'll get the weather data and run corrections.

Post all the time slip data for me.

60'
1/8 mile ET and Speed
1/4 mile ET and Speed

[ThisChicksGotAYellow2SS]

Sorry for the extreme delay. I wasn't able to post before. Hope this helps solve the issue at hand

[rayhawk]

That 1/8 mile mph tells the story, you are definitely on the low octane table. Your 60' time isnt even all that bad. Do the fuse pull again.

[ThisChicksGotAYellow2SS]

I did the fuse pull again. Will take it to the track on Wed again. Hopefully it gets better

Originally Posted by rayhawk

That 1/8 mile mph tells the story, you are definitely on the low octane table. Your 60' time isnt even all that bad. Do the fuse pull again.

[freemaSSon]

What is the elevation of the track?



There is a weather station at a radio station about 5 miles away best I can tell and it is 65ft. above sea level so my calculations will use that.

This the weather from the 25th

21:36 - 79.1 Deg. 74.9% and 30.02 Baro.

http://www.modulardepot.com/density.php?show=density

Density Altitude = 1584 ft.
Uncorrected 14.70 @ 99.19
Corrected 14.45 @ 100.91

Density Altitude = 1584 ft.
Uncorrected 14.74 @ 96.56
Corrected 14.48 @ 98.23





If you are having gas quality issues it would be worth using some booster. I have used NOS Octane Booster "RACING FORMULA" in the past. The MMT based formulas are the best on the market and this is the most readily available. I buy it from auto zone.

[ThisChicksGotAYellow2SS]

I did try an octane boost on sat with a fuse pull to hopefully bring my car back to the high octane table. Here is the corrected time using dragtimes.com.

Originally Posted by freemaSSon

What is the elevation of the track?



There is a weather station at a radio station about 5 miles away best I can tell and it is 65ft. above sea level so my calculations will use that.

This the weather from the 25th

21:36 - 79.1 Deg. 74.9% and 30.02 Baro.

http://www.modulardepot.com/density.php?show=density

Density Altitude = 1584 ft.
Uncorrected 14.70 @ 99.19
Corrected 14.45 @ 100.91

Density Altitude = 1584 ft.
Uncorrected 14.74 @ 96.56
Corrected 14.48 @ 98.23





If you are having gas quality issues it would be worth using some booster. I have used NOS Octane Booster "RACING FORMULA" in the past. The MMT based formulas are the best on the market and this is the most readily available. I buy it from auto zone.

[GMRULZ]

Okay, using your slip on the left and a da of +1500, 14.7ET-3tenths for the weather to a zero DA day, plus in all my years of drag racing a .10 in the 60 is worth .15 in the 1/4, I have averaged the slips to prove it, so you are losing 5 tenths from a base of 2.0 60 foot since yours is 2.37. That equals 13.9 which is a far cry from 13.1 advertised by GM or a 400fwhp car @ 3906lbs. Thats 8 tenths or about 80rwhp. I doubt you are that down on power but it is obvious you are down considerably and the only reason I can think of is you are on the low octane table. Yes, I realize you did the fuse mod, but don`t do it till you are about to go down the track. Its my belief that these computers are going back to the low octane table at the least little hickup and staying there. Dynoing the car on a Dynojet for comparrison sake would be the best possible course of acton imho. Definetly switch brands of gas or at least a different station. I use Shell 93.

Good luck and keep us posted.

[scottywheels]

When I went 13.2 stock, I did a dry burnout to get the stuff off the tired. Staged as shallow as possible.....and just flashed the convertor at the line....

[ThisChicksGotAYellow2SS]

I'm about to go pick up a gtech to road dyno my car. Will post results in a couple hours

[PQ]

Originally Posted by ThisChicksGotAYellow2SS

I'm about to go pick up a gtech to road dyno my car. Will post results in a couple hours

So, you didn't do it or what?

When you go back to the track, do the fuse pull the night before and try to get to the track with little miles before fuse pull. I'm still waiting for a follow up.

[ThisChicksGotAYellow2SS]

SOrry of the late reply. My dad's in town and I left my computer at his place. I was also trying not to post my Gtech results because I thought hat they were wrong.

So I didn't Gtech road dyno my car, but I did do a simulated 1/4 with it. It came up to 13.6 @106.5 mph. Sound's good right? After that, I ran a simulated 1/4 with the Gtech again, and ran 13.55 @ 107. I want to kick the stupid Gtech. The second time I used it was at the track, where the timeslip said that I ran a 14.0 . The Gtech is very very inaccurate!!!

Anyways, that being said, I did go to the track yesterday, and my best time was a 14.060 @ 102.14mph. I don't think that flashing the converter is working for me... maybe cause I'm doing it wrong? But I think the secxond fuse pull did help immensely, since I didn't do anything that much different this time around.

What I noticed though, was that even in Sport Mode, my car shifts out of 1st before 5000RPM Is this normal?

Attached are the slips...

Originally Posted by PQ

So, you didn't do it or what?

When you go back to the track, do the fuse pull the night before and try to get to the track with little miles before fuse pull. I'm still waiting for a follow up.

[rayhawk]

Now that is a lot better. Now it is all on you..work on that 60' time. If you can take 0.1 off your 60' it will generally translate to 0.2 off your 1/4 mile ET. With some practice you should be able to manage a 2.0, which would give you a 13.4. Not bad in these temps.