help after clutch and tick install - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

OzzySS · 10-12-2023, 10:21 AM

Got a 2013 SS/1LE, had the clutch master cylinder disintegrate enough after 20k miles that the clutch went to the floor earlier this summer and i barely made it home.
Decided to go ahead and replace a bunch of parts, wound up installing the following -
Tick adjustable billet CMC
Tick speed bleeder
New OEM slave cylinder with billet bearing support
Monster twin disc kevlar clutch to support the TT power

Finally at the point now where it's back together and bled (separate reservoir) and i took it for a short test around the block through all the gears until i made it home and couldn't get it into reverse, or back into first for a few moments. finally got it going forward again and parked nose in the garage. popped it apart to make sure i didn't swap solenoid plugs like i'd read about - didn't see how it would've been possible since my wiring literally doesn't reach long enough for that.

so now it's still on stands and i'm trying to adjust the clutch mc but the wheels are still spinning when i clutch in and let off the brake. is it just bc it's in the air? when i did the clutch install i worked with monster support to make sure my measurements were correct and i shimmed the slave to exactly 0.200", their max recommended. if i rev it in the air in neutral the wheels will start going so obviously there's not full disengagement. do i just need to wear things down a little?

guess my question is - can i drive it like this without breaking everything and expec that it'll "break in" or do i need to get all the way back in there and use the smaller shim (i used the middle one to get to .2" out of tick's shim pack). i've currently got the clutch adjusted to basically all the way out for longest throw and reverse doesn't have a problem there out of the few tests i've done now.

Risingson05 · 10-12-2023, 10:50 AM

You sure you’ve bled it completely ? I used a mity vac in mine , as I had the same problem you did . After it got up to operating temp , it would be hard to get into 1st and reverse . Took it home and bled it with the mity vac off my monster remote speed bleeder and never had the problem since .

I also saw air bubbles come out when I bled it the second time , which verified to me I still had air in the line .

.2 is monster max gap but their ideal gap is .1 - that’s where I set my clutch gap too with a .450 shim

fz4k98 · 10-13-2023, 08:37 AM

Its best to work from easiest to hardest. Start with a good bleed. Check to make sure you have good fluid flow while using pedal during the bleed ( no fluid obstruction).

I have chased this issue over a few different occasions and have found...
adjustable clutch master cylinder piston seal was weak and allowed blow by.
warped clutch disks on a twin disk setup which used up too much of the gap during release.

I also adjusted my gap to .140 ( gap controls pedal engagement location)
Did you lube the transmission shaft splines? I worked in grease and slid the clutch back and forth a few times and then made sure to wipe away any excess.

10-12-2023, 10:21 AM	#1
OzzySS Drives: 2013 2SS/1LE, 2004 Cavalier Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: jax, FL Posts: 1,344 View My Garage	help after clutch and tick install Got a 2013 SS/1LE, had the clutch master cylinder disintegrate enough after 20k miles that the clutch went to the floor earlier this summer and i barely made it home. Decided to go ahead and replace a bunch of parts, wound up installing the following - Tick adjustable billet CMC Tick speed bleeder New OEM slave cylinder with billet bearing support Monster twin disc kevlar clutch to support the TT power Finally at the point now where it's back together and bled (separate reservoir) and i took it for a short test around the block through all the gears until i made it home and couldn't get it into reverse, or back into first for a few moments. finally got it going forward again and parked nose in the garage. popped it apart to make sure i didn't swap solenoid plugs like i'd read about - didn't see how it would've been possible since my wiring literally doesn't reach long enough for that. so now it's still on stands and i'm trying to adjust the clutch mc but the wheels are still spinning when i clutch in and let off the brake. is it just bc it's in the air? when i did the clutch install i worked with monster support to make sure my measurements were correct and i shimmed the slave to exactly 0.200", their max recommended. if i rev it in the air in neutral the wheels will start going so obviously there's not full disengagement. do i just need to wear things down a little? guess my question is - can i drive it like this without breaking everything and expec that it'll "break in" or do i need to get all the way back in there and use the smaller shim (i used the middle one to get to .2" out of tick's shim pack). i've currently got the clutch adjusted to basically all the way out for longest throw and reverse doesn't have a problem there out of the few tests i've done now. __________________ Build thread linked in the pic...

10-12-2023, 10:50 AM	#2
Risingson05 Drives: 2015 zl1 m6 Join Date: Jan 2020 Location: Alaska Posts: 702	You sure you’ve bled it completely ? I used a mity vac in mine , as I had the same problem you did . After it got up to operating temp , it would be hard to get into 1st and reverse . Took it home and bled it with the mity vac off my monster remote speed bleeder and never had the problem since . I also saw air bubbles come out when I bled it the second time , which verified to me I still had air in the line . .2 is monster max gap but their ideal gap is .1 - that’s where I set my clutch gap too with a .450 shim __________________ 791whp 699 ft lbs torque on E30 - ported sc /heads by boost mode racing - PAT G cam /Tune PB:10.7 @133.9 Last edited by Risingson05; 10-12-2023 at 11:04 AM.

10-13-2023, 08:37 AM	#3
fz4k98 Drives: 2013 1ss Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: WI. Posts: 525	Its best to work from easiest to hardest. Start with a good bleed. Check to make sure you have good fluid flow while using pedal during the bleed ( no fluid obstruction). I have chased this issue over a few different occasions and have found... adjustable clutch master cylinder piston seal was weak and allowed blow by. warped clutch disks on a twin disk setup which used up too much of the gap during release. I also adjusted my gap to .140 ( gap controls pedal engagement location) Did you lube the transmission shaft splines? I worked in grease and slid the clutch back and forth a few times and then made sure to wipe away any excess.